seattlejester

Don't those big block engine usually run carburetors though? My understanding is that with a carbeurator the fuel vapor actually pulls heat out of the air essentially super cooling the air before pulling it into the blower to be heated up. I just watched the "engine masters" on the intercooler pretty interesting their results, granted with a boost controller and an efficient turbo you can net whatever result within your efficiency island so maybe a moot point. Are you going to run a blow off valve? There was this really interesting blow off valve that was basically a clamp/sleeve that would be super sleek.

...oh no. I want to say I looked up the one you posted, but I can't verify to check. A bussman 232 electronic flasher is what I ordered. https://www.amazon.com/BUSSMANN-NO-232-Heavy-Duty-Electronic-Terminals/dp/B0086GUMIU Looking up the details, it looks like it may not be LED compatible. https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/11107/10002/-1 This Jegs 11107 looks like it might be what I need to make it work.

That angle almost looks like you plan on running intercooler less?

^That ended up being my temporary fix. I just swapped out my rear ones to incandescencet, I imagine throwing in load resistors on the actual flashing circuit would be the same, but for the time being swapping just the rear turn signals back gave me back turn signals with headlights.

I work in Seattle, but I'm over the bridge in Bellevue. It would probably have to be on the early side on the weekend, but I'd be down to meet up for a bit. Hit me with a PM.

Can't help with any recommendations in the area, but price wise usually 50-200 or so depending on the depth and who is doing it. I would expect at least $100 at a shop. Depending on the price of the car and the seller you can usually split it with them with an agreement that both of you get copies, that way if you walk away you aren't out the full amount, and they have a copy to either fix issues, or to show other potential buyers.

Ok, not just me then. Hmm the links work on my safari browser on my end. I know summit racing links cause the vigi-link error, but the car parts ones on your post seems to work on my end. Want to see if it works now for some reason?

Sorry that took a minute to find the subsection, kept missing the whole L-series sub forum for some reason. Getting late I suppose. Fixed link is up, should be in the same spot.

Fixing a link

Evapo rust works almost unbelievably well on hardware. I threw in a bucket of bolts I was planning on replacing just to try, I thought I dropped in some new bolts when I pulled them out from how clean they came out. Gold tape thing seems to be popular. Ceramic paint works pretty well if you spend time to follow the directions.

I think it is the symbol thing again. Can someone tell me how to get to the post manually? As in just clicking links to get there FAQ>engine components? etc etc etc. I can restore it with the title modified if I can find it

I think the current system needs a thread to reference to leave feedback. You can ask the seller to generate a post so you can leave feedback.

Hey, I noticed you posted in the FAQ section. I've transferred your post to the troubleshooting sections so others can reply. That looks correct, although I recall something about that number being a result of something archaic. I imagine chickenman would be able to verify.

Mineral spirits worked pretty well. The trick I learned from some people who refinish transmissions and other parts is get it really clean, then take a torch to it to burn off the grease and other oil residue, then clean it with a volatile solvent (ethanol) that leaves no residue, then paint it silver.

Howdy, Looks like you posted to the FAQ section, I've gone ahead and move you over to the technical section. If you want replies in your posts I would advise staying away from the FAQ section as that section is currently locked against replies. There are many more knowledgeable people, off the top of my head you would need boost compatible carbs or modified standard carbs, I believe the floats are one of the concerns as they can be crushed under positive pressure. In addition you would need a rising rate fuel pressure regulator to supply adequate pressure behind the fuel during boost. Next you would need a surge tank or collector so the turbo can blow through the carbs from one inlet. Viable boost options? I mean you can run turbochargers, you would have to match the turbo characteristics with the jets and the bore size of the carbs I imagine. If you are talking alternative boost, you can run a vortech supercharger type setup as well. 280zex comes to mind as someone who is running blown through carb turbo, although he is running a 4 barrel.

Just want to point out, the same conversation from above still applies. Please make a post in the vendors forum.

Its not necessarily more adjustment, just less bind since one of the arms can move independently. Less H arm and more A-arm plus toe adjuster.

That is really interesting, shouldn't be necessarily surprising, but interesting. I wonder how many people just thought the cars ate tires when it was an incorrectly drilled strut casing. I just mentioned this in another post, but maybe take a look at AE (apex engineering) arms, they would have less bind in a wider movement range. Sure, as long as it isn't terrible out.

The rock auto axles are tripod instead of birchfield (sp?), so no cages to be flipped. 300zx axles are on the long side to start with. The Cave adapters apparently don't really do anything to address that. There is a guy on facebook that makes some really thin ones to at least give some clearance, but shorter axles or longer track width would be required most likely to run these axles. Spreading out the track width would help, but that would force a bit more camber out of the rear. If you had top hats cambering out the bottoms and cambering out the tops would get you good clearance without forcing too much camber. T3 arms are ok, but I think AE (Apex Engineering) has a much better design, although they haven't been around as long as T3 so I can't comment on the quality. It looks like it isn't the boot diameter, but one of the bellows that caught and ripped. You can undo the clamp inboard side and pull it closer to stretch out the boot a bit more. They do make boots that don't bellow out on the first ring like that, more designed conically. You would have to go to the parts store with some part numbers to figure that out, I'm not sure what housings they used though so not sure what you can go in and ask for, best to take the housing or measure the shaft and the housing diameter. You could clearance the arm, but you would really want to weld in support depending on what you are taking out

Hello, I noticed you tried to make a post with punctuation in the title. Per the announcement page, the system seems to be having a problem with that still. I've made a new post and pulled yours into it to save you from having to type it up again.

Hmm SM needles have a pretty flat fuel curve from what I've seen. You would probably need to set the mixture a bit leaner at the bottom, that would require a wideband to do correctly or an kaleidoscope thing for the spark plugs.

If you are referring to overkillz's post in the announcement section that was problematic due to the use of a symbol in the post title. Dan said he thinks he has remedied that fault so we shouldn't have to be wary of symbols.

You got to slow your roll. Your kind of all over the place. Replacing the clutch master is something that takes a couple minutes at most and is quite simple, not something you really need to consider now. If the stock 5/8 master does not move enough fluid you can step up to a whatever unit will. Looks like some kits use a 3/4 master, those are available from tilton or wilwood. Stepping up to a 7/8 unit now will mean you are pushing a lot more fluid through the line. At best that means you have a fluid hard stop as you push down the pedal. At worst that means you blow the clutch line or blow out seals if you have the pedal adjusted incorrectly or continue to push against the fluid hard stop. Also please take a minute to proof read your post. "I I as wonderful omg" can be confusing when you mean "I was wondering."

I feel like people would consider megasquirt at that price point. MS2 pre-built from DIY is like $450 or something. You can build it yourself for under $300 if I remember and it will do more than an ignition system could do on its own. If I was set on running carbs I would get like a megajolt type setup and run EDIS or something and have a system under $250. If you are more of a purist though and want to keep things looking stock while getting a bit of an edge with controllable timing you might consider this over other options. The fine gents over there seem to be more of that category, preserve and improve.

Is it oil fouled or fuel fouled? Care to share a picture? Did they put in different needles? Or did you tell them you had a bigger cam in your motor? Did you set the idle mixture screws and adjust idle? Or did you just install them and go? Running rich would be my guess. I had SU's on my L28 and I had to adjust the low RPM mixture way down to keep the car from leaning out on the top end. According to some charts I've seen the stock needles are kind of made for the stock car, you would want to look into maybe SM needles depending on how modified the motor is to kind of flatten the fuel curve. Without a way to measure AFR you are kind of just guessing at it, and if you haven't messed with them before you are really guessing. Some older shops or shops that deal with older cars have a service where they will adjust your idle and your mixture for you using a wide band sensor clamped to your tail pipe. I'm guessing you need that type of service.