seattlejester

Well there aren't too many people that lift these as compared to those that lower them. Depends on your rule set. I recall a post where John Coffey or Tony D said they shipped a lot of stock arms out because the rule set for historic rally required the use of stock arms and they tend to bend or something after a lot of abuse. I imagine your lift is limited because at a certain point you start gaining positive camber, I think the car John built last was like that as an example. If you aren't following a rule set then really the world is your oyster. I would be tempted to throw the wheels almost outside the body. Longer axles and longer suspension arms, long travel shocks and softer springs with bumpstops. If you don't have the budget for custom suspension then most likely spacers for the strut tops, some quality shocks, and clearancing the body for whatever tires can fit without rubbing is about the best you might see.

Which model?

A bit of necromancing, but in the vein of this discussion. You can have a wastegate so poorly mounted that you effectively make it useless. I recall an example where someone took the wastegate off leaving a hole in the turbo manifold and the turbo was still spooling up. My friend has a manifold he purchased that was custom made that has a long trumpet that connects to the waste gate a foot or so away from the merge collector and he can't bypass enough gas to keep his boost down. While another individual with a bigger engine, same turbo, smaller wastegate, with better priority has the full spectrum of control.

Assuming that the system is well bled (I usually try and find a hill to make sure the radiator is above the thermostat, then burp the system, give it a few revs, a sealed funnel to cap works really well as it will let air escape and immediately fill the void with coolant under column pressure). I'd say then it is a combo of air pushing around or past the radiator and your fans being on all the time. You can see if that is the problem by blocking all the holes around the radiator that aren't being used with aluminum tape and building a make shift block off between the front spoiler and the radiator support on the bottom and the radiator support and the hood on the top. Once you get onto a nice open freeway, turn your fans off and see if the engine gets hot. If it still does then you have some other type of problem like coolant flow, slipping belt, etc. If it cools off then you just need more permanent shrouding around the radiator and the shrouds

I would be a little more concerned about the torque. The AE86 is one of the few chassis that actually have a weight advantage over a lightened Z. So swapping it in that car especially with the short engine bay makes a heap of sense. It has what looks like a comparable torque value to an L-series, but it is going to be later than an L6, much more later than the V8 you have. Granted people have swapped over rotaries which have basically no torque, so it is all subjective. There are some definite benefits though. You won't be stressing the rest of your driveline components. The engine and transmission package will be put the car on quite a diet as well. Your main argument for it seems to be money? Not sure that stands the test of time as much. If it is for fun, and you can see the fun in it down the road then that is a better reason. A good determinant would be to compare comparable drivetrains and see why the 3gse wins out for you. KA24de is even cheaper, a boosted miata drivetrain could be done similarly cheaply, F20 and F22 are a bit more pricey but makes even more power. Then you have the bigger swaps to consider, the 2jz, RB, LS, etc. If the 3gse wins out with a reason good enough for you to do it, then I think you kind of have your answer. As an aside, your rear flare looks to be a bit on the low side? That is if they are ZG flares, the ends look like they are sharper than normal though.

^Yea if you have push fans mounted behind the radiator, I'd be surprised you haven't blown fuses or melted wires. Do the paper test for us? Kick the fans on and place a piece of paper in front and behind the fans to test for air flow.

Thanks goodness. Oh, you have a 7m supra as well?

Thank goodness for cross platform posting. https://oppositelock.kinja.com/borg-warner-s257sx-e-pressure-fitting-size-1793974815 Looks like I recorded it as a 1/8 NPT. This was on a BW 257sx-e. I'm not sure if they changed it between the S200 vs the S300 though. If it isn't I'm real sorry to have led you astray. I would imagine it is an PT fitting given the pressure application. Very cool. Mine is a simple box I had someone weld 2 additional 5/8 ports onto for a total of 4 5/8 ports going into a box. The guy was new at this though and was struggling so I didn't feel like I could ask him to weld in a baffle.

I'm almost positive it was a 1/8 NPT, I recall I had the same question, called AGP and they told me, and I went and bought it from the hardware store same day and I don't think they carry metric barb stuff. That catch can looks pretty good. I fear the little fitting may not be quite enough to pull enough vacuum, but I think it is way better than open air. Did you put a little divider in between the the vacuum port and the rest of the catch can, so it allows the oil droplets to travel and fall out of suspension or at stuff it with some steel wool? A better catch can is going to be my first project when I get a tig.

I appreciate the road you paved to hopefully make this way less painful for others down the road. Lord knows I wouldn't have the patience to ship it back and forth that many times.

Assuming, and that is a big big assumption on our part without more information, that the cooling system is working, I agree with NewZed. Having the fans on all the time may actually be a problem. At low speed not much of an issue, but depending on design and threshold they can be a restriction if you are trying to spin them at a motor rate and the air is trying to flow faster around them. Are you running a shroud? Similar vane with having the fans on all the time, not running a shroud the air is going to want to flow around the radiator or through the side of it rather than through the center of the core. Have a picture of the system you can share with us? Hard to tell how well a system is put together without visual aids. I have a 2 row champion/ebay radiator with twin electric fans on my 2jz na-t and it has driven through 1/2 an hour of traffic with maybe a 2-3 degree rise from 180.

I don't know anymore. It seems they are stepping up their game a bit on the offbrand/knock off world. Personally I agree, I'd rather spend 6-800 on a borg warner, than 3-400 on an off brand, and that is what I did, I paid extra to have a specific hotside, and it spools like nobodies business, plus if anything goes wrong I know the turbo is most likely not the cause and is covered under warranty. But if you have say $200 or so in your motor, buying a $1600 turbo seems a bit stark. At $400 or so you are already doubling the amount you spent on the engine, and at that price range there is only used older style turbos. If I was in that same boat I would be really hard pressed to click away from something from like CX which offers a ball bearing GT35 clone for $425. Then there are middle ground suppliers, I think on3 might be included in them, but driftmotion for sure is one of them. They take aftermarket housings and put garrett center sections in. The steel and aluminum may not be as pure or rated the same, but the work horse is in theory reliable and serviceable. The tradeoff for sure is reliability. You might not have a balanced turbo, it might start leaking at 10 miles, and it seems they rarely make it over 10k miles. Granted if you don't drive very much that upper level 10k mile lifespan could mean years. If that is the difference between a project going ahead and not, then maybe it is a choice for some. But, if the turbo lets go, you really can't blame anyone or get on your high horse and talk about how bad it is. It is a knock off and you knew that going in.

Ah, I wasn't thinking of the door itself shattering and becoming a problem. I recall a friend made fenders out of 1708? Demonstrated the resilience of the panel by taking a sledge hammer to it, panel just bounced. Can't imagine a core mat or a layer of fiber would add a lot of weight. I do wonder what the final weight will be with 4 cylinders and all the carbon replacement everywhere.

Basically short of the headlight, turn signal, side marker, horn, wiper, main power cable, and maybe the brake failure switch thing, you would pull out the rest of the harness. Don't throw it away by any means, but the megasquirt should be able to be wired in pretty much standalone with what you have on the list with just an input from the ignition signal from the key and a power supply to the relay board. If you pull the harness for the lights away and the wiper, you should be left with the power cable and such going to the alternator, and an ignition signal that goes to the coil that you will want to save. The only thing you need to reuse I think would be the coolant temp sensor wires if you planned on using the stock ones.

^Aren't the door bars welded to the chassis sufficient for anti intrusion? Hopefully it correctly tags to save you some time 9 min 49 seconds. Or does the door actually need structure to crumple?

Frustration aside, I think that last couple posts were very informative trackszspeed. In the beginning of the thread there seemed to be a lot of anger and name calling, warranted for sure given the product description and your experience, but kind of made it hard to determine exactly what the problem was. Playing devil's advocate, clearing up the problem and using the correct term does help visualize the problem. Bind would make me think that the diameter or something grew, binding the axle, finding out it was spaced incorrectly lets me know that there was a problem in spacing, meaning the clamping force prevented the axle from spinning. I remember getting called out for using pipe instead of tube, to a layman something inconsequential, but when talking about suspension and load making sure the clarification is there is of real importance. An LPT that was pointed out to me was to be modest with using years of experience as proof. Usually a question is raised when something seems incorrect, not because of a doubt of experience. A good analysis will withstand scrutiny regardless of the age or experience of the analyzer. Anecdotally it reminds me of the police officer who state based off 11 years of training on narcotics that the material found in the car was definitely a narcotic and sent a man to jail, only to find out it was the glaze off of a donut. Absolutely destroys all credibility of how those years were spent. Based off of an analysis of the material we found that the composition is mostly sucrose and water is a perfectly sound statement. No need for experience to weigh in. I digress, there was some concern with how DSS axles were listed in the beginning I recall. Seemed almost too good and too fast and too vague to be true. Unfortunate as it is, I am thankful that you took the plunge here, and hopefully they will be another option on the market for us. Regarding similar adapters, on the 510 forums there are a couple spread sheets of how to assemble axles using adequate material as Eric suggests. The adapters are also available from a user that has something to do with Mountain Dew for a very affordable fee. http://www.the510realm.com/viewtopic.php?t=10917

Concurred, you really want to know the air about to go into the motor, not influenced by the manifold heat retention. By all means if the stock sender is calibratable then use the coolant temp sensor. I think I'm thinking of the fan switch for the injector cooler that is a simple on off coolant temp sensor or I guess switch in this case. Having someone help you with going over the base settings is quite useful. It can definitely be foreign if this is new to you (that is no doubt an obvious statement). I will say you can stumble through most of the menus though if you run into a problem you may be hitting your head against something simple.

Not something that comes up too often I guess. You could send them payment to be used towards a donation and have them process it. Otherwise you could run the paypal portal through if they gave you their account password. Not sure if an admin has the ability to assign donation markers.

Very nicely organized post, well done. I believe you need the DIY wheel in the distributor in addition to the coolant temp sensor (I can't recall if the stock one is a switch or an actual sensor)? You might want to pick up pig tails for the TPS, IAT, and such. For injectors if you plan on doing anything in the future with this specific motor it might be worthwhile to just upgrade the injectors now to save on buying new injector clips down the road. If you are new to wiring a set of good quality ratcheting crimpers and the corresponding connectors can help put your mind at ease regarding the sureness of your connections.

Its the inside hose material I would be more concerned about, a little bit of deformation and it would just pull vacuum through the braid I imagine. But I've seen turbine housings get red hot, so it must be reasonably doable. Worse case, like you said some hard line would probably be fine. I did notice a lot of the competition JZ cars at FD looked like they had something of this nature, a hose going towards the back near the exhaust connecting to the catch can, I can only imagine this is what it was.

In the spirit of continuing the conversation. I noticed a new player in the area we are talking about. https://www.harborfreight.com/protig-200-welder-with-120240-volt-input-63619.html Yup it is harbor freight. Not exactly the bargain of the century, but it has had positive reviews from what few sources I can find. The plus is if anything went wrong, the closest harbor freight is about 10 minutes away so I could in theory exchange it the same day if I bought the optional warranty. Don't worry I haven't jumped the shark though. I'm still leaning quite fondly towards the everlast unit. With maybe some aspirations of looking at the square wave lincoln 200, which at $1500, is quite a bit more, but given tax return and time has kind of slipped into the realm of possibility.

He made a duplicate post in the FAQ section.

With 2.5 inch spring like TTT coilovers have you can run a little bit more inboard I think the springs are 4 inch od vs the 5.75 inch stock perch (my memory might be fuzzy). I know another size that is run is 16x9+0, but a 16x8.5+30 is the equivalent of say a 16x9.75+0 (in regards to inboard), which may be a bit much. For that price I would just get a wheel gauge or make one yourself to make sure before purchasing. I suppose worst case you could run extended studs and slip on a spacer.

Depending on the offset, yes. I believe 9 inches is believed to be doable pretty regularly with coilovers. 8.25 I believe is the limitish on stock suspension.

That looks really comfy as far as the stock steering wheel goes. My fear would be the foam would tear the bottom layer and free wheel, but I suppose with the compression of the leather that shouldn't be much of an issue.