seattlejester

I think the stock one should work. It is a fairly large bore if I remember.

Kind of a long shot, but I have a long nose R200 without the flange in the front which I believe is called a pinion flange. Anyone have one? If not I wouldn't mind picking up an R200 if someone has one fairly locally.

I would suggest posting a new topic as to prevent that, unless your question is directly in line with the OP, which given this is specific questions regarding his build may not be the best. Short of being something really silly I don't think anyone will beat you with a stick in this section.

Interesting. I think my next plan is to safety wire things along with paint pen all the fittings like they do on desert cars. The stuff I'm learning in this thread, this is going to be a treasure trove by the time you are done Exposed lol.

I'm not really sure the material, the hose ends are for sure aluminum. The adapters don't feel like steel pieces from what I've seen, so I would assume aluminum as well. My guess is the material mismatch can cause fittings to get loose? Perhaps the different rate of expansion or something of that nature?

Hello, Welcome to the forums. Please note you have posted in the FAQ section which is incorrect and also does not allow responses. I have moved your post to the parts wanted section, which seems more appropriate. Best of luck in your search.

MDF seems to separate on me around the edges. I know some people will seal or tape them for longevity. Plastic can be a nice alternative if you have a local composite supply store, usually they have off cuts that are really affordable. My center panel is a sheet of steel, nice because if you have to you could ground the whole panel if you wanted to simplify some wiring and bolt directly to it.

Those wheels look killer!

Goodness that is really sunken in. Looks far more correct now. I think I killed my boost control solenoid either that or it is sticking really badly. When it works it controls boost as far as I can tell, but when it doesn't it overboosts till the boost cut which I am thankful I have. My mishap with AN lines is in regards to them coming loose on my turbo oil feed on both ends, despite following the recommended tightening. If it was a boost reference line that comes loose to a boost solenoid, then boost solenoid doesn't supply good control to the waste gate, best case scenario you hit boost cut, worst case scenario you boost until something pops, if your lucky a coupler if you are unlucky a piston. Regardless, I am stupid excited for you. Please don't neglect the basics! You seem way more methodical, and legitimate, but rushing and forgetting to hookup an oil pressure gauge or something like that is a really bad day.

I'd still like to see a bigger vacuum port, but that might just be nit picky. I know at work we have small lines pulling large volumes of vacuum. My recent mishap with AN fittings makes me a bit nervous with the boost solenoid, but that is probably a knee jerk reaction on my part.

Hmm that is something interesting to think about. With how cheap plug kits are I'm not sure how economical this would be. It would definitely be useful if you were doing some type of specific connector or some such thing, I know I've been delayed a week or two looking for a specific connector. If you can sketch something up with dimensions I'd be happy to make you a prototype. I'm happy to use the practice.

Welcome to the forums. Looks like you posted to the FAQ section. I've moved your post to the engine section and the fuel delivery subforum. I believe the 280Z's don't have what traditionally looks like a fuel rail. More like a loop of fuel line with barbs going to each injector. Very similar if not the same as those found on the later L28E motors found in 1979-1983. I would say off hand that, that should be fine, although I am not sure if there are manifold changes which may cause mounting differences.

Goodness that is quite a difference. If I remember it should just come off and be fairly easily swappable. That might be the solution to the water leaking aspect from a seal perspective. Now if the manifold tightening down pushes the housing or something we would need a short bolt to solve that one aspect. I have to say your drawings are on point.

If I recall you do make some very decent sketches. Just a sketch with clearcut dimensions would be enough to go on for something simple. There are some limitations to printing or optimizations that have to be considered so that might be nicer to start from scratch. If you already have a model, something compatible with fusion 360 would be nice. That way I can edit it if something needs tweaking and I can convert it to STL I think is what the cut program likes. Simplify 3d is the cut program so if you are 100% sure on the model, then something that simplify 3d can recognize would be fine.

Might be worth swapping the stud to a low profile allen bolt to give a bit of clearance. I had to swap one on my housing as well as it interfered with the intake.

In the 2jz, which looks different, the thermostat sits proud of the housing and seals against the block. If the thermostat sits low in the housing like you say and doesn't seal, and you are trying to seal using gasket maker (which if water is actively interacting with that layer makes me concerned that it will bypass the thermostat), tightening the manifold on that bolt could shift and tear the gasket maker. Short of a wrong part number I'm not sure how that might occur. Do you have a toyota gasket/o-ring thing that comes on the stock thermostat you can swap onto the mishimotor thermostat? As annoying as it may be, the only real way to know would be to take it all off again and carefully pull the thermostat housing and see if it has a tear. Once again granted that shouldn't necessarily be the sealing surface in the first place. I will say that I had two holes in my block I completely neglected when I filled up my coolant for the first time. Might be worth making sure it isn't dripping from higher? I know this is the exhaust side, but maybe. Alternatively hairline fractures in aluminum are really hard to tell given the casting, might only be opening when you tighten down the housing.

According to some online searching it says it is able to print ABS. ABS probably would be better for engine bay or things like that, but then you have to consider venting the room the printer is in for the fumes. PLA is really nice to print with, but it does kind of have an iffy temperature limit in regards to car stuff. The printer I am using just sits at the foot of my bed in a corner and just chugs away. If you have something small you want printed let me know, I'm in that spot where I appreciate the practice in modeling. If it's PLA, just shipping will be fine as long as it doesn't take too long. If you want it out of something a bit more resistant, I'd have to bother my friend and he might charge a bit for material and setup, but probably cheaper than any commercial print.

I'm still printing from home. Material is PLA. It takes a little bit more thinking to make sure the parts fit on the little build area (4.5x4.5), but still manageable. If I need a bigger piece my friend has an 8x8 one that I can use as long as it isn't actively printing.

@Mike Mileski I agree, I mean my alignment guy said about as much, but once he set it, that was it. I have no real thoughts of changing it anytime in the future. I did ask if it was extra, but he said all their race alignments are the same price regardless of how much or how little is adjustable. Probably not a big deal in design to add a bigger rod end adapter and a small piece to space it out like TTT.

Let us know what you find. Personally the sound of rocks and stuff bouncing off the undercarriage is like nails on a chalkboard to me. Never sure if it is a rock hitting the wheel well or a very important nut or bolt falling off the car, lol. The safari look is pretty timeless, and battle cars seem to be a thing that is coming into popularity.

If track/autocross is your goal I feel suspension may be better suited than going deep into an engine swap. On stock suspension these cars do move around quite a bit, that is if their bushings are intact. Honestly if you have the ability, putting an engine in a car takes a day or two at most assuming you have worked out things like the oil pan. Now if you have only an hour to spend every month then that day or two process can take over a year. Cooling, wiring, and fuel can be what can catch you off guard, but similarly won't take too long either really if you plan ahead. Can't help you with the SR20det swapped S30. I only know of a couple L28ET swapped cars and my JZ swapped cars locally. I know there are at least 2 guys with RB swaps rolling around, but I'm not sure of any in the immediate area with SR swaps.

I guess it depends on what type of rally. If it is a street rally than the "normal" route is fine. If it is a dirt rally, you still might be fine, maybe a bit more clearance and a bump stop to keep the pan off the road, dirt tires would be a plus. If it is a gravel rally, or rutted type you might want to consider lifting the car and looking into bespoke suspension. When people build trucks and such they usually build around a tire. If you were serious about this, that would probably be the place to start. Once you have a tire you can find out where you want it, then figure out what to clearance. That would also dictate what type of suspension you would run. I have a friend who off-roads with a lifted sports car, he lifts the car on coilovers and has offroad tires he switches to when he goes off the street, he's been stuck in some places that would have dictated him either sleeping in the car or making a long walk 20+ miles to get cell reception or help if he wasn't creative or had friend's to tow him out. So the bottomline of the discussion is if this will be used in rally, or if you are just aiming for a rally look? Rally look could be accomplished with light pods, mud flaps, livery, dirt tires, and a lift.

Thanks, I went into it being a little worried, like what if my hybrid axles that uses parts from 3-4 cars breaks, what if my engine mounts shift. That all kind of went out the window when the instructor was like, ok CLUTCH KICK. Happy to report the car took abuse from 3 people and seems to be fine. If something breaks it is a weak point, best find it now rather than on a long road trip or something.

One may wonder. Why did you make a vertical handbrake? Isn't that what those kids do who do that whole sliding thing? Well, yes, that is what they do. I took the Z to a drift school. I went knowing that this was not likely going to end well. We have long suggested that these cars were pretty bad for this given the slow steering and lack of overall angle. I can report. Yes, that hasn't really changed. With the weather getting a little nicer and the car seemingly sorted, I was looking for something to do. Turns out they were bringing back the drift school at the local track which had been absent for a couple years, or at least a couple years ago. Figured I have RWD with an LSD, spare tires as well, what do I have to lose? Went out with a friend who also has a mostly dormant project, kind of an excuse for both of us to drive our cars. The last time we drove together is when I lost my oil line and killed my motor. Sad to say this time was not without mishap. Arriving at the track I found oil. Seems the oil feed line to the turbo worked its way loose from the other end of where I found it loose the time before. Luckily with my new oil pressure gauge fitted I knew it had not killed itself like last time. I will reiterate, check all AN fittings and hose clamps! An accurate oil pressure gauge in a good location is also a MUST. Found a very nice local who happily shared his oil with me. Oil topped off, tires changed, onto the track. It is pretty interesting to learn. Having never done a donut or anything of that nature this was a whole new skill set. Sad to say I really did not do well. In retrospect I think I was focusing too hard on trying to get the car to spin instead of thinking of how to control what happens after. Made myself and most likely my instructor quite sick tossing us around. In the end after not really getting anything remotely resembling a drift, I asked the instructor to take it out (top picture). He reiterated what we have always known. The steering is slow, heavy, and lacking in angle, but he said the power was real good. If I could figure out how to get a bit more angle (we spun shortly after the picture was taken, lack of angle is the culprit), he said this could be something really fun to play with. So with the street tires put back on we stood around and watched for a bit. It is remarkable how much control some of these guys have. I must say sitting here a few days later, I am itching a bit to try again. Maybe some Arizona Knuckles and TTT tie rod ends maybe in the future.

It has been a while since an update. So first off, I've been working on some little projects. I've been meaning to redo my hand brake. It is pretty loose being an ebay unit, and finally having pulled it in a straight line it does not actually lock the wheels like one might expect of a hydraulic brake. So first off is a design or an improvement. Two faults I found was slop and lack of actuation force/pressure. The lack of actuation is remedied with a bigger wilwood clutch master. The slop will be addressed with bearings. I started off with a blank for the handle Basic design attempt for a simple handle. Then I looked up prices for having things cnc cut or water jetted and decided maybe not for me. Decided to shrink it down to just an adapter for a simple pipe. Extra holes to test for alignment and leverage. Then a simple sketch for a base using no dimensions. Correction once real dimensions were found and the pivot plate was finalized Then, since the master is a bigger bore I raised the whole thing, distancing the pivot and giving a bit better leverage. 3d print the pivot piece. Made a tube adapter since you can't weld to plastic for testing. Then hot glued the pieces together for testing. The base was simply made out of box steel. Pretty simple in design and easily replicable. Mounting plate was made for the master Then welded together, don't mind the welds, prototype to just check for functionality at this point really. The pivot piece was traced, then cut. The additional pieces were then welded on. The result. Really feels good in the hand. The only detectable slop is in the forward direction which is resultant from the master. A spring should take care of that if needed. The base still needs some aerating as well and the pivot could be more contoured and could use some kind of mechanism to maintain some brake pressure so it can be used as a parking brake. Another point of improvement is the crummy fuel pump location. Given the fuel pump is mounted to the bottom of the hatch floor and the fuel cell sits below that, it does make noise when you are going down a hill, braking or other such activity. There was some though of taking the fuel cell out and welding in some bolts to the side of the fuel cell box, but figured a little pedestal might be easier. Using my favorite tool I cut up some leftover pieces. Then cleaned up the spot to be welded with a grinder Added the bar to space the plates Then measured to drill some holes, and welded the assembly together. Now the fuel pump has preload so will hopefully be happier and last longer.