seattlejester

That design would work, although it would make pulling just the suspension require dropping the diff as well or leave it hanging on just the rear mounts. Doesn't happen often, but could be troublesome if you had a stuck spindle pin and wanted to change shocks or if you were using the differential as the jacking point (that's happened before). Same off topic, regarding the incident in question, apparently the guy who copied the design never purchased the set apparently or was given the design. He asked and was told they weren't ready or available so he took the idea, made his own measurements from axles, made crucial fixes and indeed made his own and produced them. Tried to make it right by offering the seller the design but that ended poorly. Only reason worth clarifying is to not raise defenses on anecdotal interpretation. Bringing it back on topic, I think it does raise a point. Those sharing in good faith like several with build threads or production threads like this one are at risk of intellectual theft, but the benefit is that you get active feedback from frankly really talented people, and this does also set precedent showing the idea existing prior. Also I think it is useful in that it keeps projects in check. I think someone offered a mount kit a while back that was too simple for the price. Any knowledgeable fabricator can make a perfectly suitable mount, the benefit here is that someone has taken the time to do so, if the piece is too simple and someone decides to charge a ludicrous amount, you can get a reality check which can help future sales.

Just saw this on my feed. Mighty car mods guys buy an S30

Hmm then there goes that idea, anytime I'm under 30% fuel, sharp decel will audibly cause a change in the fuel pump. That would be really cool, a chance to get properly schooled!

Yay an update! Have you had any problems with the foam deteriorating in the fuel cell? Hope to see you out at the autocross this year!

Ah, for our benefit then, carry on.

Please also insulate the resistors. Or tape them up at least. One big bump and I can see the components shorting.

Ah interesting. I was thinking from a multimeter perspective. I imagine the draw would indeed be minute given that multimeters usually run off tiny battery cells.

I've got part of a shower drain as part of my setup.... Goodness that looks snazzy.

I love reading through the old discussion threads. I've thought the same with the extra degree of freedom I think I even posted on how I didn't understand, and I built my own A-arms. I think we like to look for extra degrees of freedom, but don't factor in things like the strut being bolted in having a limit in movement and length as well as the axles and such. Bottom line is it works, the wheels don't do anything crazy when you accelerate or brake, I do plan on throwing on a camera to try some slow motion of a launch eventually.

Congrats on getting it running. It shouldn't be reading all the time. There should be three wires, a power, a ground, and a read. From the characteristics it looks like you have the read and power wire switched. The read wire can have constant power as it only serves to differentiate from the charge to the ground. The power wire should be on the ignition so that it is off when you pull the key.

Hmm something doesn't quite look right on that. From what I've read, you either have a voltage gauge, a dummy light, OR a resistor. Looks like you have all 3. I also would like to see a big gauge wire with a bigger fuse go to the junction, having it feed in front of the fusible link seems like it would limit the amperage. If the alternator and battery are good, it can be one of 3 things. The wires are not thick enough to carry the current (wires would get real hot, fuses would probably blow) The wiring is incorrect you have a feedback loop or something The voltage regulator is not getting the correct signal, so it is not telling the alternator to continue to charge. Found this little diagram. Your diagram doesn't quite match up there.

No need to reinvent the wheel, and drilling to get the flange installed and using gaskets isn't really worth it IMO, the threaded fitting should be fine. Do make sure to mark it somehow so you can tell if it backs off. My friend told me he found all of his loose one time, and I checked and found my feed loose. He carries a wrench now to check at gas stops, I put a little reflective tape on mine to see if it rotates. The stainless and the aluminum fitting should be fine it is indeed the inside that is the concern. Some shielding wouldn't probably go amiss. Just make sure your shielding still has an air gap or else instead of having to fight radiative heat it has to also fight conductive heat.

Of course learning from my mistake it could be something simple like a blown fusible link, or a battery with a bad cell. You should be able to inspect the fusible link and test for continuity. The alternator and battery you can take to a chain store and they should be able to test both for you.

Just did a bit of looking. I come from the 240z world so things may be a bit different. The CS144 should have 6 connections Basic overview for others, pins on the alternator: Output Ground Signal Field Lamp P for Stator according to some diagrams. Output: The output should be going to a common power point and should be a heavy gauge the starter is used as a junction so it should be a good spot like it looks like you have. Ground: Ground should be through the case, so if the engine is grounded that should be fine. Sometimes they put a coating that might not be conducive to grounding so make sure it is clean and if you want to be doubly sure you can ground the alternator directly to the starter ground or ground it directly to the chassis. Signal: This is the signal, should be as close from the battery as you can get. Field: This isn't used as often, but from what I understand it is a protection circuit for when the battery is disconnected from the circuit of an alternator while it is running. Lamp: This is your charge indicator, goes to the alternator light, apparently this should be a switched source P for stator: Apparently can be used for an RPM gauge. By removing the shunt, do you mean the voltage regulator? Did you make sure to connect the correct wires on the plug? Following the guide here? http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/alternatorswap/index.html The datsun harness should have 4 wires, an output, a ground, a signal, and a lamp. The output should be hooked up to the output of the alternator The ground should be hooked up to the alternator, I think modern ones ground through the case, so you can get a bigger terminal for the mounting bolt. The yellow wire which is horizontal on the T connector should be the signal wire connecting to the Signal pin on the GM alternator The black/white wire which is vertical on the T connector should be the lamp wire connecting to the lamp pin. As long as the voltmeter is receiving a positive the yellow wire should be fine as listed as long as the diode is in the correct way. I don't see that you have a black/white wire on your diagram. Technically you shouldn't need the earth as long as you have the engine grounded to the chassis or the battery, but you do have it so if you cut off the end and put a bigger terminal you can use one of the mounting bolts to make double sure Output I don't think should be connecting to the ignition that directly nor the combo switch.

A second opinion requires a first, are there any that have peaked your interest? Everyone's opinions and usage are subject. Supra guys generally will recommend turbos that will get them to 600+hp as they know as a forum people tend to want more, so they recommend larger. Keep in mind our cars are 1000lbs lighter, more if you have a 240z. Power to weight wise their recommendations are going to blow most of the tires off that we can fit on our cars. Fit wider tires and that means you have to address axles and other components keep that in mind. Also keep in mind if you are buying a kit or a certain manifold that may limit your options regarding size. Like for me and another local our manifolds and engine placement lined our turbos up with the shock tower, so we had to find turbos that would work with the space we have. Turbos come fairly late in the build you don't have to figure it out now, and tech is constantly improving. I ended up picking up an E model of borg warner which has lots of improvements over the standard one. I know someone else who bought a specific turbo with plans to build around it, that really locks you in though, you really should prioritize engine placement over turbo placement, unless you HAVE to run a specific turbo.

That is true, I figured about the same, once set it is not something that would be revisited so I didn't see the merit in oversizing that bung or similarly using a thread adapter and loosing the diameter of the rod end shaft. It is however a feature that might be useful for someone, although that someone maybe someone driving their car to the track on thinner rims, but really really really wants flush wheels on the drive there or something?

Gosh that has been on my to do list for a while. That looks great!

Ok, I would just set my output to the boost control JS11 and output at 19.5hz and toggle it on and off in test mode correct? My other thought was to change the value to 35% all across to see if it can control and it isn't triggering for some reason.

Lash pads right? I thought that looked funny. If you didn't tighten the lock nut it wouldn't take much to loosen and come out of adjustment. Granted if it is sticking that isn't really an adjustment thing as it is a bent valve stem, debris in the valve guide, or something of that nature.

Well interesting problem has come up. I fixed some things and now I am overboosting again. Following the guide I turned down the boost duty slowly, only I am finding that megasquirt is not switching the duty cycle. I monitored the boost duty cycle as a gauge, I even lowered the throttle to 30%. At 4k rpm hitting at 50% throttle I should squarely be in the lower boost duty portion of the table, but it is keeping the boost duty % at 100%. It doesn't seem to want to shift at all. Any thoughts? It definitely is keeping the waste gate closed, but now it seems it is keeping it forceful closed without reducing pressure at my target value.

Need more parameters. Look up info on your own. That is part of the fun of learning. Learn how to read compressor maps if you want to know how a turbo will behave. As a rule of thumb the smaller the hot side A/R the faster the spool. If you have a small A/R on a big frame turbo you will run into the turbo pushing too much air to get through the small A/R of the exhaust. Run a small A/R on a small frame and you will find you may be moving yourself out of efficiency as the turbo has to spin faster to achieve similar air flow as a larger frame. A/R is a ratio, but generally if you look at a T4 flange turbo something around .5-.7 would be good. I know you can get like .4X with a T3 flange on smaller wheeled turbos.

Well done. Might I humbly suggest taking a gander at the old race car pictures floating around with the reinforcement locations? They are old black and white photos floating around someone who knows the car may chime in. I have similar frame rails as you, and I still notice the car twists quite a bit. If I park on a camber My hatch and hood sometimes has trouble latching. Would be something that might be easier to incorporate now to sturdy up the body for the V8 torque.

Have you done a valve adjustment? These aren't shimmed buckets like in modern cars, they have tolerances that need to be adjusted at a regular interval.

Must have slipped under the radar, very much concurred well done so far!

Don't have tunerstudio here, I'll take a look later in the evening. Test spark output in test mode. If you are getting an RPM signal that means the ECU is being informed of when it should fire, aka input. You need to test if it is able to send the signal to fire, aka output. If it is not generating a spark then you know your problem lies with the output area, trace from the ECU until you find your break. You really should put a bit of electrical tape or liquid tape around the legs of the exposed driver.