seattlejester

Yay an update! I would love to make the trip. Packwood really is gorgeous. I'll be happy to hold down last place. At best I'm a bench racer, I've made my peace with the fact I'm not a very good driver, plus my modifications are all over the place.

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Hmm that is not a bad suggestion if one does not exist. I'll look for one and whip one up if it can't be found.

I keep forgetting they have a shop as well as a show room. I live pretty close by as well, I've gone to them for some weird seat brackets and stuff before. Nice people.

Oh you are going to want some resistance. Can't really get a jack under there since there is a spring up top, I'd suggest it would be worth dropping the three nuts and the parking brake and brake line to get it on a bench. I'd say it might almost be better to make sure the end that is out is a bit more tapered and hammer that backwards, the way threads are if that mushrooms while it is in there it is going to grab and be really hard to get out.

The spacer method only works on kind of medium seized ones if I remember they use like an adapter so that you actually apply the load not directly to the threads like you would if you put washers right underneath so the threads are just connecting and being pulled rather than pushed against. I will note depending on how seized they are it won't come out with a 12 ton press even after cutting the a arm off. At least not with my harbor freight press while being heated a little bit. So look for 4x4 or shops with more serious presses like a 20 ton or so. They probably would find it laughably easy.

Really late to the party, but I've been watching a lot more on the how to's. Apparently the grey can happen more readily if you have a non advantageous gas coverage. So welding the same thickness material people will find welding the inside of a pipe will weld with better color and less greying because the gas stays in the curvature, while welding on the outside the gas falls away more quickly. More gas was a recommendation, but this is from a complete newbie so take it with about a bucket of salt.

For people looking to do something similar, I thought a price breakdown might be useful. Just like with MIG welding it is the accessories that kind of get you. Everlast 185DV: $899 Furick cup kit with size 8 clear cups without diffusers (for AC) and gas lens conversion: $68 (optional, I think they'll be useful, the gas lens is weldtec and supposedly quite good) Tungsten grinder: $80 (you can totally get by without this and just a grinding wheel, but I've heard it can help with beginners so I picked one up) Lanthanated 2% Tungsten: $33 for 10x 7inch rods of both 1/16 and 3/32 (supposedly a decent all rounder, 3/32 is good for most things, 1/16 can be useful for really thin metal) Already at $1180 not including tax Still need to get: Spare consumables alumina cups, gas lens, back caps, etc I used "series 4" type lens and collets, they didn't have them in stock, but had them shipped from a sister store ~$20 for spare collets and gas lenses Filler rods $10/lb TIG gloves (once again optional, but I've heard it helps to have the tighter fitting gloves) $15 for tillman gloves Argon tank, pretty sure I screwed up here, I wanted a customer owned tank, but I bought a new one, I think I could have got a customer owned used tank for a bit less $230 Pedal (going to try just using the button on the torch first) Probably another $300 or so there. All in I think I have about $1500.

It would have been so easy to grab it before I cut the tunnel out...I was just so tired though that it slipped my mind. I think that won't work as I trimmed the panel quite a bit so I doubt the pieces will fit. I really need to just crawl under the car and find out.

It happens. I think it took 3 blades, mine was just sitting against the floor. Mounted I think it will take less. The center lock pin only goes in one way, but the spindle pin it self should go in both ways. Kits use bolts to replace them, if the hole was tapered that would be problematic. Albatross, happen to know the shop that pressed them out for you? I still have a set with the pin stubs pressed in after I cut the arm off.

I think another member swears by an air hammer. Although he removes everything and mounts it to a bench if I recall. Sawzall with a good blade will cut through it. I've done a set in a junkyard with a battery powered sawzall before. The dewalt black blade or a milwaukee torch with the higher TPI count will cut it, but that still leaves you with having to press it out and most likely you will shave a bit of metal off the LCA or maybe it is just rubber right there. But if you bring it to a shop like that they won't charge you as much to press it out. You don't need to take the whole car. Assuming your exhaust is detachable you can jack the car up on the rear diff and put it on jack stands on the rear frame. Remove the front diff crossmember and the two rear caps in the back (nut and bolt so make sure to grab the top nut somehow) and you can remove just the upright and the control arm as one unit.

Hey guys, Kind of a random request. Does someone with a 1971 or 1972 240Z have easy access to measure the length from the firewall to the bolt holes of the stock cross member? Just in a forward to aft measurement like straight from the trans crossmember bolt hole to the firewall if say you put a piece of wood or something that spans the tunnel gap. It should be between 16 inches to 23 inches. I'm thinking it is almost in the middle of that at 19.5 inches.

Thanks to Zetsaz, I have an interesting piece to play with. The trans tunnel from a 1971 240z, or at least a portion of it. Some more measurements from today. The trans tunnel interference point is a 10in by 6in box with a 2.5in tall trapezoid with a 10in bottom and a 6.5in top. This definitely fouls on the sandwich portion of the transmission, but if similar to how Exposed mount it if you just use the tail shaft you can have quite a bit of room That is I believe with a 1.5 inch offset. So moving the trans back 1.5 inches from where Exposed has his, that would make this almost dream like, moving my engine mounts forward less than an inch might even be doable without any fabrication or just with welding the brackets into place. The only thing that gets in the way is a sensor on the side, which may be the reverse sensor I haven't really looked it up to confirm. I didn't really think it through, as I just wanted the mounts, but luckily I grabbed a mounting point on the chassis along with the trans tunnel. I think it holds the ash tray or the center console, but as it is long gone I don't recall what it is, for now this point is indicated as point X from now on. Point X is 35mm in behind the bolt center for the trans tunnel. (Point X at the tip of the step drill) 21 inches from point X to fire wall 12 inches from point X to the back of the stock shifter hole 8.5 inches back from point X is pretty much perfect for the shifter 8.25in from the TC bucket to the fire wall? Converts to 209.55mm. Taking away from the previous number we get from the chassis diagram we arrive with the trans tunnel length from firewall to transmission chassis mount of 413mm or 16.26in. That does not seem right. I'm measuring almost 21 inches from the fire wall using the X point offset of 1.5 inches that puts the internal distance from the center of the trans cross member to the firewall at 19.5 inches. That makes more sense with the R154 currently installed as well. After checking my R154 is 2 inch stick out past firewall, it seems like it sits recessed as the head of the bolt sits further back as in the casting for the face is more than an inch for some of the bolts. With a 25 inch total length from bell housing to mount point (granted I am realizing this is most likely for a 7M), this puts it at about 23 inches. At 19.5 inch that means the offset in the mount is about 3.5 inch which seems more likely than the 6.5 inch offset the numbers say. I really need to get under there with a tape measure. Some measurements for sure. 40.5 inches trans length total from bell housing to shifter mount un-cut 27 inches from the bell housing face to the bolt center on the mounts for the transmission 34 inches is the trans length from bell housing to shifter shaft with the shifter moved forward as much as it can be via cut and weld without going for something like a CBF or full standalone clevis delete setup. The shifter to trans mount is at what looks to be a 7 inch offset. That means with the trans lined up with the rear mount you do get almost a perfect lineup with a shortened shifter. In my case I can even push the trans back another 1.5 inches and move it forward via an offset and still have the shift ball in the perfect spot, not cut the trans mounts out, and in theory have the engine only move forward an inch or maybe less. Trans tunnel to the factory trans mount: via Exposed's measurement saying he was 4 inches proud of the fire wall, and knowing 27 inches to the factory mount center line on the transmission I surmised 23 inches. I'm getting ~21 inches according to my tape measure from the inside to point X which I know is 35mm behind the centerline which converts to ~19.X inches . According to the written measurements and my TC bucket to firewall measurement it is 16.3 inches, using a digital tape measure it says more like 17 inches. I really need to confirm this measurement to really start moving forward for real. If anyone has that measurement it would help immensely as a data point. Transmission mount pad is 13.5cm wide and 7cm tall with it centered, it can go up to 8cm but tall with off set holes on the pad Trans bolt spacing is 4.25 inches. An Energy Suspension GM transmission mount should work. If not I believe the Jeep engine mount would work for as long as the height clears. I do realize this may be annoying for some, like "why don't you just go do it." I really want to have my ducks in a row, maybe with enough measurements even build the trans and engine mounts ahead of time would be the ultimate end goal, most likely a pipe dream, but still. The plan is to do this in friend's garage, and having this all figured out before I even start can mean getting a drive shaft made and mounts all sorted ahead of time and making this a weekend project instead of a whole week or two type of project.

So something interesting I learned. AHP and it looks like maybe Everlast as well have kind of a "order for the next shipment" kind of thing going on. That is why you sometimes see the price is higher for the same item. On amazon you can find some Alpha welders for $800 that are essentially available now, or some for $680 that is kind of a pre-order for the next batch or something of that nature. Same thing with Everlast, you can find some for $900, or you can find some that will ship very quickly for find some for over $1000 that in theory should ship same day. I did miss a chance to grab an alpha locally for $450 NIB on craigslist. Granted that may have been for the better in case something went wrong I wouldn't be able to file a warranty claim. I ended up grabbing an Everlast 185DV kind of as planned. I bounced back a lot, given the alphatig was a couple hundred cheaper even brand new and had all the controls I could pretty much ever need for a beginner welder, but looks like I missed the last shipment for May and the next one would come end of June. That means no chance to learn how to weld before the summer is in full swing and no chance of getting my trans in before June ends either. So for an extra $200 or so I decided to grab the Everlast 185DV. Its about 20lbs lighter and much smaller with a longer warranty as well. Planning on picking up a tank, as well as some Tig gloves. Tungsten I'll have to read up on and I find those pyrex cups kind of a neat idea as well. Thanks for everyone's thoughts. I'll kind of do my summary bit once I have some time under my belt.

I feel like swapping a V8 and a solid axle makes it seem like starting with a classic muscle car would be a cheaper start point. I mean given the skillset of a lot of individuals on here, the world is really your oyster. As long as the differential physically fits back there, which there is quite a bit of room, you can really put whatever you want. The question then becomes how much of what drivetrain do you keep and how much fabrication you want to do. The benefit of staying stock/nissan long nose is the ease of install. Benefit of going to the shortnose is more options and generally cheaper parts as well as still serviceable readily. Going full TTT lets you get rid of the stub axles, get modern disc brakes, and use stock or stock style axles. Going IRS 8.8 lets you get dirt cheap differentials. Going wilfrit IRS 8.8 gets you the same benefits of TTT with the cheaper differentials. Doing it on your own, you are going to have to have some precision in your mounts if you don't want the diff to be mounted funny, figure out axles, and hubs. There are some people that have swapped over hubs from the drivetrain, say mustang, 240sx, bmw, etc. Most people don't go that far just out of convenience/use.

I think that is how it should be, useful topics that answer popular questions with detail were moved there. Seems like in the update it came in unlocked. Leaving it open does allow me to fix broken titles at the moment via merging it with a newly titled thread, so probably have to address that before closing it off to new posts I imagine.

The G35/350z rear end is an R200 of the short nose variety. To run it you would need a custom mustache bar, forward mount, axles, potentially hubs and brakes depending on if you go with adapter or swap the rear end etc. https://technotoytuning.com/nissan/240z/complete-r200-r230-rear-end-conversion-z-car ^ to do a full rear swap and get rid of the stub axles Otherwise you would need the differential mounts, a longer drive shaft, and axles/adapters. If you go the adapter route, you go through all that effort and still have stub axles. The short nose r200 has more options in a way given they use the larger 12mm bolt hole, but you can run a bushing and run that same center on early long nose R200 which are straight bolt in with the curved mustache bar or you can run a later 300zx Z31 long nose which has the 12mm bolt hole to start with which means no bushings. In other words, I don't think it is worth while to swap to a short nose compared to a long nose if you aren't swapping to a hub type setup. Swapping to the correct length CV's will alleviate any problems with the axle bind and will move the weak point to the stub axles. The current trend seems to be the ford 8.8 diff swap. Similarly you can swap out everything similar to the TTT kit, although wilfrit (sp) was the only one that made a full swap kit with intrepid hubs and upright adapters and I'm not sure if he is still active, so your option then is to keep the stub axles and run an adapter and axles to the 8.8 differential, which other than the ease/price of finding a good ratio and LSD the off the shelf adaptor components kind of negate the price. Granted if you have a problem down the road it will be easier/cheaper to replace.

They have a datsun set from rota if you aren't above using knockoff wheels, although from a more reputable source. At least better than using a knock off wheel and a wheel spacer. They have them in their RKR and RBR variants and come usually in 17x9-13 and 17x9.5-19. You could get sqaure 17x9.5-19. Depending on the tire it may be a bit of a balloon, or you could step down a size. Rota grid classic also make a 16x9 -15 wheel which is a bit wider than what you have and may fit some wider tires. Caveat emptor, racing on knock off wheels has its own realm of concerns. Some people do it, others say they would never do it. Personally 17's look a bit too big to me. Granted tire choices in the 16 size is pretty poor.

Being at the top is useful since it is the first place people can click when scrolling down, but being at the top on I'm guessing applications it comes up first so people post there instead of elsewhere. I've been trying to shift them as soon as I see them. I think I'll subscribe and have it send alerts to me so I can be quicker about it, but I don't think I can unlock that setting. I'll bring it up to Dan, life has been keeping him quite busy though.

If I'm looking at that correctly that is on the outer edge of the block? The big hole is for venting the block and letting the oil pass through the head so it isn't really under pressure. Cometic gaskets are coated in a thin layer of rubber. I believe copper gasket spray uses acetone which can lift and shift the layer so they told me not to use any. People still do and swear by it, but that is against their recommendation. If it is deep enough to cause you worry, granny knot's recommendation is probably a better option, but it would have to be the thinnest of smear and that would probably be overkill as newzed points out.

Hello, You posted in the FAQ section, which does not currently allow for replies, I've moved your post to the drivetrain section to further discussion.

I think I found the pictures. Looks like the top of the mounts clearly interfere. https://hokeperformance.squarespace.com/l-series-350z-6-speed-adapter I think I can accept that as a reality. I'd rather not drag the transmission, and if the cost is to loose the stock mounts and have to figure out something with the floor, then so be it.

Actually had that discussion with a friend, he's an engineer and I poke fun at for cutting corners on his own car on occasion. His defense was along the same, it may not be the best, but given my time saved and the efficiciency loss I'm not going to notice, it is probably not worth the time. The engine is quite far back in my case, which is neat, but I wouldn't mind moving it forward to near stock position if it saved me from cutting out the brackets in the trans tunnel, or allowed me to save a couple hours when I do a clutch or something. Part of why weight distribution or I guess moment since the mounts still press down in the same spot, isn't on my list of concerns.

Welded differential are a step up from open in that if you pick a wheel off the ground you won't loose forward momentum, but the car will behave differently and will want to understeer in other instances which may be a detriment. If budget was the absolute master concern it may be a consideration, but I wouldn't recommend it. I'd almost say the order would be open > welded > phantom grip. Mpower makes a helical that is $800. OBX makes one about that same price range. CLSD's pop up once in a while which would be complete for about $800 as well, although you may want to open it up and replace the clutches. Opening a diff and installing an LSD isn't too terrible of a job. Keep track of where the spacers came out from and you can ball park it. If you have the spacing/shim kit and a feeler gauge you can actually set the lash so it would be relatively problem free. You can keep an eye out on craigslist for part outs of Z31 87-89 300zx turbo's and see if you can snag the rear end. I know a couple a people who have bought wrecked or parts car 300zx's just for the differential and scrapped the car and made out with paying much less. I did my rear end for $1000, but that also included CV axle conversion. My differential was about $300 using an infiniti J30 VLSD in a Z31 long nose housing. VLSD's aren't the best for racing though as they loose the lockup with use and heat.

I think CBF and serial 9 offer some of the shortest shifters moving it forward almost 6 inches by some measurement since they don't reuse the clevis if I remember. That does help it gives a reference point. Does hoke's kit mount where the stock trans mount is roughly located with the stock L28ET? I know his is more or less user choice given that it bolts through the frame rails. Do you have the early style mounts or the later style mounts? If you had the early style were you able to keep the mounts? His mount is one of the best I've seen in terms of leaving room to route the exhaust, and flexibility to move it around. I might have to see if he is selling just the mount. True, granted my motor is almost touching the firewall right now, so moving it forward would still be moved back compared to the stock L-series mount or at least equivalent. Moving it forward 2 inches would not only benefit the shifter, which I agree is a minor concern although I have quite a bit of equipment in the ashtray, the benefit is to be able to access the bolts from the engine bay for the bell housing for ease of transmission service. Haha, I have my brake bias and the lines for my hydro coming up through the ash tray so it would make it quite busy, and I have a sneaking suspicion that the bulge in the rear won't fit through the trans tunnel. I wasn't really happy with the motor mounts and revisiting them will give me a chance to make a jig so I can make more in a better design in the future if I choose to. Those shifter relocators are prohibitively expensive. I'll probably be building mine, but even so that kind of limits me to the 34 inch territory which would still come up a few inches into the ash tray assuming I could get back far enough in the trans tunnel on top of making the bell housing bolts all sit behind the firewall which would make that inaccessible except on a lift pretty much. That is what I am noticing, right now the lowest thing is the curve in my exhaust, but the whole thing sits above my frame rails, I imagine with the trans dipping down that may be a new low point in the car. I think I would try to incorporate he lower mounts and make it a tripod style again even if I shortened it. Granted I did workup a design and prototype for a shifter that uses a lever to lockout reverse similar to the aftermarket BMW shifters. I'll have to take a look and see what is really feasible. Still need more measurements, maybe I can go look at Zetsaz's car to see what room I have to play with, but appreciate the hell out of everyone's thoughts. My main concerns: 1. Bellhousing bolts: I mounted the engine when I had the 7mgte, that motor uses 4 bolts similar to the L28 and the bellhousing is longer which meant I could lean in from the fender and brake them loose. Converting to 2jz, that has an integrated bell housing on the motor so it pushes the bell housing face back about an inch, more bolts, I could get a wrench on the top ones by using an angled wrench. The CD009 uses an adapter plate, that means it pushes it even further back by 0.625 inches which would mean completely inaccessible from the engine bay. Not a big deal, but would be a bit of a hassle if I wanted to pull the motor. 2. Transmission tail: If I am going to place the trans further back then Exposed did, that makes an assumption that the bulge clears the trans tunnel. Physically I know the outer layer of the trans tunnel is wide enough with everything removed in a 280z, I'm not sure on the 240z. Looking at the picture of Exposed's trans tunnel this may be problematic. Will need to measure. While a small consideration in the scheme of things, I'm not sure I want to cut out the factory mounts, the labor involved and such would be quite large. 3. Shifter: I have my proportioning valve and my hoses for the hydro coming up back in this area, it is also where I plan on installing my brake lock in the future. I could move this out of the area if the shifter came up through here, but would prefer not to if I can help it.