seattlejester

Wheels are too wide?

That seems like the turbo will be too much for just an NA block with flat tops or a minor dish. Cost effective would be to sell the turbo, pickup an L28et manifold, a replacement T3, a crank trigger wheel, HES mount, and LS coils, and drill the pan for a bung and T off the oil pressure source if a bit of boost is all you want. Unless you have a T3 hot side, you are going to have to run an adapter/spacer and there isn't much room in there to run one. I guess alternatively you can have one welded, but that means you have to get a dump pipe made up and custom exhaust work.

I think you guys call our Toyota 4x4 a Hilux, but that isn't really much of an upgrade though. I would see if you can buy just the custom brackets and source the rotors and calipers locally or from a supplier close by as jap tin says. Brake parts are heavy and the last time I shipped something to the netherlands I think there was a tariff on top of the item.

I seriously considered a slightly older g35 (post facelift) sedan when my car's transmission needed replacement. They look real nice and the ride is good, interior is plush and the analog clock is a nice touch. The sedans have a very muted exhaust so it doesn't sound like the FX35 or the 350z, whether you consider that a plus or a minus is up to you. Price wise they are pretty decent, but I would factor in a couple grand saved up just in case the engine decides to go, or maybe pickup mechanical insurance coverage. Generally low maintenance, quite a few people have gotten them up to 200,000 miles. Major con is loans suck. A necessary evil in life, but if the car breaks down while you are still paying money back on the loan it can really make you angry. That is more of a situational con vs a vehicle con. I guess they don't get the best gas mileage, the backseat isn't exactly comfortable (better then an accord or civic, but still cramped). I think most sedans are AWD which means that you have to buy tires in groups of 4. The intelligent AWD can be a little off catching if you aren't expecting it, as it will move power around when you loose grip suddenly turning into a FWD car if the back steps out, not a terrible thing, but if you were planning to control a minor slide and suddenly the rear end looses power and the front end grips it can be slightly jarring.

I needed new floors, so I put in a frame rail and welded extensions off of that and straight to the floor. I put my seat back as far as I could and leaned back a good amount. I guess it depends on if you are lanky or not as to how your arms and legs will sit. If your floors are good I would follow John's advice, the factory seats brackets are on the higher side. I wouldn't recommend doing it the way I did mine. The most height by far, but definitely a possibility the seat will just rip out a square patch in an accident if you don't have some kind of brace. And if you are building a cross brace, might as well just put two braces and use those as seat mounts as john says. Sliders will raise the seats so you will have to decide if they are worth it. I'm only about 5'10 and I have my seat as far back as it could be mounted. I use the slider to get access to the bolts for the seats. I guess if you used studs welded to the seat you could get away with having to use a wrench or allen key to hold the bolt while you undo the nut.

Right, completely agree. Even if you just swap manifolds on an L28 to the ET you still need to wire up new sensors and such as well as additional plumbing. I'll have to clarify as to not mislead anyone in the future.

Looks like you are 6 inches taller then Jay. My seats are more sport seats with cushioning and I get maybe 4 inches of head room with it bolted to a plate welded to the floor. I still fear you will be quite close to the roof even if you bolted the seats straight to the floor. Those deep bucket seats might be good for a little more room. Just a couple small considerations as it seems you do not have a z car at the moment. A 240z will be easier to get the seat in just from the fact it doesn't have the cat hump. Even if the seat is low enough to fit, just be advised your knees will be quite bent and your elbows as well, my 6"2 or so friend has to sit pretty uncomfortable to drive my car, like knees bent out and elbows at 90* and out like chicken wings.

I'm thinking from a purely engine mounts point of view, is that incorrect terminology? I guess to clarify, the mounts can be bolted onto the stock cross member is a more correct statement. For the L28ET I guess depending on the transmission option, you would have to modify or make a new trans cross member and play with the drive shaft, potentially the same with the RB20.

It might be the RB20 now that I think about it, you just have to slot one of the engine mount bolts and it will bolt to the stock cross member. Basically research and search around, if someone drops a piece of information you don't want to sit and regret that you would have gone another route "if only you had known."

Looks like someone posted up a similar wheel, american racing spectre, or spectre 2. They were pretty popular so if you were hoping you hit a gold mine, that isn't the case, these seem to go for about 100-200 pending condition. 510 guys, and AE86 guys would probably be your best bet if you are trying to sell.

Couple members have shown you can do a 2jz swap for pretty cheap. I think the current record is about a grand or less including trans and engine. I'm a big fan of more cylinders, so stepping down to a 4 cylinder doesn't appeal to me much. So from that list there is the: VG30ET, has a pretty stout transmission option, relatively known and worked on, can make decent power, you have the engine and related pieces in your possession. Could be potentially loosing out on sale price of the whole car by parting it out. RB, quite expensive to get certain parts, the RB25 literally bolts in so it has that going for it. You would have to import the engine so that could be a problem. Can make pretty good power on stock internals. Toyota motors 7m, 1jz, 2jz, they don't bolt in, not sure where he gets that impression, need either an adapter or a cross member, depending on access you could make mounts for 50, or you could buy a kit for 1500. For the 2jz and the 7m at least you can buy parts locally. They have really really stout transmission options, very very plentiful. L28et, literally the same engine just with turbo bits, transmission options start to become limited unless 240hoke gets to developing the CD009 adapters, the T5 can handle a bit of power, fits and has car specific adapter parts aka down pipe etc to fit a 280zx L28et into a S30. The key here is the statement you use "as much work to swap" if an engine is as much work as another engine with the exception of a few (L28et and the RB25 since they are actually bolt in), you might as well pick the engine you really really like, that you will either want to keep in there for the foreseeable future, or would have decent resale value. For re-sale I think it is hard to beat the L28et, VQ35, or the RB26. I think the point is, make sure you are not settling.

The Acura burgundy is quite nice, has quite a bit of pearl in it so it pops under certain light.

Someone hit my daily driver earlier in the week while I was at my local hardware store. They left without leaving a note. It was enough to pry off the bumper and leave some mean scratch marks and even shift the car. I parked way in the open right in front of the store, open spots on either side. Would have loved to report the guy, but the camera was pointed incorrectly in the store and the outside one was pointed 4 cars away and the store had two entry points into the lot. Pretty pissed. To top it all off and potentially related, the car started skipping on turns. You would turn the wheel and nothing, until eventually the car would grab and shift directions. I thought it might be the suspension top hat binding and I was proud of my self for managing to get it home and to the dealership safely while the car continually tried to pull and pop, turns out if I had just let it go into the wall like it wanted to I would have saved myself a lot of hassle. What I thought was a simple suspension bind turns out to be the teeth apparently eating itself and stripping splines off in the transmission. Since I had spent a good amount on the Z overhauling the suspension, my options were limited for what I could buy for straight out cash. The dealership offered me quite a few incentives as well as a good trade in value, so I signed myself into a lease. It will give me a little more time to save and I get to have some nice features in the meantime. New car, means payments, means less money available for the Z. Luckily I have a shelf full of parts just waiting to go in, so that just means any new things are going to take longer to save up for or justify. Mustache bar and differential housing was cleaned up and painted. Ordered some adjustable end links two or three weeks ago, for the rear in similar style as the front, rod end with a bushing on one side. MSA says that they should be inbound any day now. Still have to button up my center housing. Need to find a way to hold the differential while I torque the ring gear bolts to 120+. I'm tempted to just impact it and call it good. My 3/8 impact gun seems to max out at a little above 120ft-lbs so I think that will be fine with blue locktite. Once the differential is ready it should be pretty quick to reassemble. Still need diff fluid, but other then that I have all the pieces. I will have to decide if I want to remake one of the brake lines that seem a little bent, possibly crimped. Hoping to find my cu-ni-fer roll to save me some money. Might have to re-assemble the car, and pull it out before being able to find it.

Just an FYI that seems obvious in retrospect, this is for a stock LCA. If you are running rod ends this bolt will be too long by about two inches. If anyone needs a set hit me up.

Oh wow, so a full subframe swap. That is fairly involved. The factory S30 subframe is spot welded in, so you would either have to undo the spot welds or cut out interference points. I would then look for Sixshooter (sp?) build, at least I think that is him, he has a brown S30 with the 300zx wheels, he swapped over everything and I think he's running a GM ECU. Something I would suggest is sitting down and thinking about the why's behind the swap. It is a fair amount of work, would be a bummer if you were not happy with your engine choice.

I think bloz up did do one, I want to say six shooter (sp) did one as well? Depends on what you want out of it. The Vg30 has some problems, but a lot of the complaint is that it is difficult to work on/get access. That kind of goes away when you put it in the enormous engine bay of the 240z. You would loose the CV axles going to the 240z, and run into other swap limitations. Is there anything wrong with the 300zx turbo? I see them fetch a pretty penny up here once in a while.

Those are going to be hard lol.

Pictures please, there are a few types of camber plates, it depends on what style you have.

How do you know you are getting fuel and spark?

Looks good!

Starting from easy. Shifter knob loose? Shifter pin worn down? Shifter trim loose? Shifter bushings worn down? Trans mount loose? Trans mount rubber isolator worn down/loose? Transmission has sufficient fluid? Drive shaft in balance?

Have you checked compression? And by almost catch are you hearing the engine turn over? Or are you hearing thuds in the exhaust? By spraying straight into the carbs while cranking you have assuredly ruled out fuel being a problem. As long as you keep spraying as you change other things, fuel will continue to not be a problem. Have you checked compression? If you do not have a compression gauge, you can take the valve cover off, and turn the engine over by hand and listen for hissing cylinders. If it is back to the spark, do you have any method of checking actual inline spark? like a timing light or an inline spark indicator?

I'll have to go back and see, but I thought the stud was pretty small so that the metal sleeve would sit against the frame rail if needed. If not, then you could get thinner washers as new zed says that would do the same task. I thought there were two thick washer/rubber grommet things stock that held the mustache bar up i addition to the bushings. I know slop side to side happens as the interior bushing deteriorates, didn't know it could be top and bottom. It has been a while since I have seen a car without an upgraded mustache so I may be thinking incorrectly.

Try the starter fluid with the pistons lifted. You bought a car that was sitting for a while. The motors on these cars are pretty robust, but also very affordable. Replacing it is not a big concern. If you have good compression on this one then it is likely to do with a simple system. Don't lose hope.

If you go to ES poly bushings it comes with two washers, to install one on top and on bottom. You could just fit both to the bottom or just leave the top one out.