RTz

Hi Bo, Whats your cooling system like?

Chill. Its only been 6 hours. The most common cause of 'flooding' with an L-Jet is a problem with the water temp circuit. The sensor itself, poor contacts, or, much less likely, a wiring problem. The most noticeable behavior is that it starts up and runs fine when its cold and, as it warms, it runs progressively richer, with the car eventually running very poorly or not at all. Under what specific conditions is it flooding? Being clear and descriptive will get you on the road sooner and more efficiently. Changing title to something useful for the next guy... P.S. Fix your shift key.

You might find this useful... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=116029 Where have you read that?

Momo and Sparco share the same bolt pattern. In theory, a Momo adapter should work... part#3503. I have not personally tried this. Use at your own risk. Batteries not included.

Nice!

Fast idle "they" be me

My contention isn't with fuses as much as it is the commonly available fuse blocks. I've had some leave-you-stranded issues with aftermarket fuse blocks (again, not the fuse or downstream circuit), so I've begun avoiding them. As Bo alluded, I've grown fond of CB's. They can be pretty easy to install and my confidence is greater. An example installation... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=753989&postcount=1

I have to agree with that. Also, the front strikes me as 'trendy' rather than 'timeless'.

Awe heck Hugh, its only money Gotta love them 'double dampers'...

Prayers on the way!

Amen!

Justin, Apologies for my recent absence. Soooooper occupied latley. Anyhow, you've got my blessing... release data at your discretion

Ya know Bryan, we're people too. The one time I know an admin let his temper slip a bit, he publicly apologized to you. If I we're you, I'd take that appology as sincere and move on. Accord?

In my haste, I left out a couple details in my second post in effort to simplify my point. Let me clarify... There are 6 'teeth' in the distributor that pass by a VR sensor. The VR sends this 'event information' on to the ignition module. The module process's this signal, charges, and then fires the coil via its neg. terminal. The ECU is also connected to the coil neg. terminal. This provides RPM information to the ECU. The ECU knows every third 'pulse' equals one revolution, and injects 1/2 the amount of needed fuel. There are many challenges in meeting your goals. It's not worth the hassle, in my opinion... there are easier way's to skin your cat.

Batch-fire injects half the needed fuel every crankshaft revolution. It knows one revolution has occurred when three ignition events have occured, and that happens when three teeth pass the VR. See the problem? I'm certain you'll be much happier with the results if you source those items first.

Sincere congrats Scottie! Put your watch in the sock drawer. Did you ever work with Don McKenna?

Don't forget quantity. Find two dyno sheets of a stock L28 and one of a KA. Take a look at the torque curve. Not the 'value', but rather the 'shape'. Completely different. This shape represents the VE curve of the engine. The L28 L-jet is tuned for a much flatter curve. Short version? You're AFR's will be 'unusable' through a significant portion of the curve. Run? Yes. Drivable? Not by my definition. Furthur, locked timing would be wretched on the street, in my opinion. Keep in mind, this stuff doesn't just reduce power. It also has the potential to shorten engine life, sometimes significantly. Dwell is handled by the ignition module. The ECU knows not/cares not about dwell. I do not understand the above. The ECU is looking for 6 evenly spaced pulses from a VR sensor. Are you providing that to the ECU? I'm left thinking your plan is very temporary. What is the long term plan? Why not do that first? Moving to Fuel Delivery...

Stock is batch fire. I'm guessing, back in '75, sequential was some engineers wet dream. I think you're about pull the trigger on a shotgun... aimed at your foot.

Damn. Wonder what alloy? 12L14 machines pretty rapidly... but not quite like that.

I've deleted a few posts. Even though they were presented in truth, its probably going a bit too far.

This thread really hasn't provided any proof that Jim has done anything wrong. So, let me share a couple facts... Jim titled post 14 with... Jim said in post 16... Jim told me in an email... This also in an email... These pictures prove the spoiler could not have been removed from a 240Z.... The source of the lying seems pretty clear to me. Jim and I have exchanged a large amount of email. In all our email correspondence' date=' Jim has never admitted any fault on his part. He has copies of these pictures and hasn't denied the spoiler pictured is the one he shipped. He has not offered to refund Derek's money in full, or alternatively, provide him with a 3-piece spoiler that [i']will[/i] fit an S30. The only thing I've gotten from him is threats, lies, and a bunch of math that shows Jim losing money if he provides a refund. We'll Jim, that's what happens when you misrepresent parts... someone loses money. You've decided to allow Derek to pay for your mistake. I wont be buying any parts from Jim Brennan.

Happy Happy Birthday!

A good share of the Oregon valley floor received 1"-3" of accumulated snow this weekend

Affirmative

Pete, Technically you're right, its being used as a cam angle sensor (which also indirectly corrolates with the crank). However, Nissan labeled it a crank angle sensor years ago, so I guess they're both right, depending on which side of the coin you're standing on. Admittedly, Cam is more descriptive. I'll change the title to CAS