RTz

Supercalifragilisticexpialidocious!

Actually, he brought that scenario up in post 5. Not sure I follow. As I undestand it, with these ECU's, "cold running" is only handled by the water temp sensor, and its simply a 'compensation'... no 'cold operation mode'. Thats what my experience tells me. If you've found something different, I'd really like to understand.

For what its worth, with regard to stand-alone, there is no reason you would get better fuel economy with a MAF system. Obviously, it requires proper tuning, blah, blah, blah. Point is, I'll bet money an aftermarket system is capable of BETTER fuel econmy than a factory ECU in stock configuration.

This thread has gone far enough off course. Put it back on course or I'll put it away.

Where do I begin? OK, lets start with your shift key.... please use it. There may be some terminology conflicts in this thread. Those always add to the confusion, but in a nutshell, your engine is modified extensively enough that you really ought to be considering a complete stand alone EFI system. You do not need a MAF system per say. MAF is a load measuring device, much like an AFM, MAP sensor, or even TPS (if configured that way). They all go about it differently and they all have their advantages and disadvantages. But they can all serve the same principle function. Load. There is a simplified description here... http://forums.hybridz.org/showpost.php?p=808851&postcount=1 Not remotely true.

Cover cars look to be Tod Kaneko?

Don't think I will. I happen to agree with him. Morals and cars just dont mix.... at least not in my book. Exactly. Owner could be deceased... and here were are trampling.

'Cause I can...

Yeehaaa Dave! Happy Bday!

Thanks for getting back to us (helps the next guy). The unfortunate reality is that the crankshaft endures a lot of stress in that situation

As Sparks hinted at, if you're only going to keep it for 3 or 4 years, re-sale value would weigh heavy in my choice.

The D80 is wonderful with color. Reds really bang. You've noticed I'm not a big 'color guy'. For the most part, If the colors don't zing, I don't want any. B&W floats my boat, more often than not. Thats the real trick, isnt it? A picture can be technically correct in all the way's we can find to define it, but if it doesn't 'make us think', its just another picture. Its one of the (many) things I'm stuggling with myself.

I'm with Mario on this. If timing was actually changing by a full rotation, the car would run audibly different while idling. It would quit running in a short period. If you were looking for it... match-mark both rear pulley's. They are isolated from each other with vulcanized rubber. If separation has begun, it will show in the match-marks. If you find that this is the case, do not continue to run the engine until you sort it out. The temperatures powdercoating is normally done at strike me as incompatible with the isolation material.

I've been had. I'm driving along and notice our town graveyard has a few bouquet's of flowers all nicely frosted over. Pulled in, snapped two quick shots to get a feel for framing. Look at the preview, zoom in and.... what the? LCD is showing a distinctively symmetric pattern... you know, kind of like synthetic. Take a better look at the 'flowers' and sure enough... fake I didn't bother to take any more. Outside of the humility, you gotta admit there's a certain irony in placing artificial flowers on a tombstone, eh?

That little box is a great tuning and diagnostic tool. It can be used in series with the existing sensor or it can be used to *bypass* the sensor.

That statement (as I cropped it) is technically true... *BUT*, If your car is running so rich that it needs this to be done then there is something wrong. You should be chasing your problem, not covering it up.

Sweet Dan! I ran a tape on an L6 for comparison... Front of water pump pulley to bell house, 30" Top front of valve cover to CENTER of crank pulley, 17.5" Depending on the pulley, to the BOTTOM would be about 20.25" Top front of valve cover to bottom of pan, 25.25" So... L is nearly 6" shorter in overall height and roughly 2" shorter in overall length. Sounds like a tight fit.

Go back an re-read Noodles posts. He's telling you how he went leaner. In a nutshell, If you provide less resistance than the water temp sensor normally would, your mixture will be leaner than it normally would. You do understand that there is risk in playing with this stuff, right?

Touche. You know, that title of yours could be a LOT worse

Sorry Woldson, I deleted your post. Lets let it go.

I think I made my point in the 'other' thread. The 'tude can be superseded with an adjustment. Time will tell. 'Till then, DEFCON 4 will remain in effect. Enough about this... we have better things to discuss

The one with the single yellow wire is the temp. 'sender'. Its only function is to provide a signal for your temp. gauge. It has no bearing on the EFI system.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=130544 I don't know what Matt's particular issue is. I've used spacers before with no significant issues. I tend to agree that a proper torque should do just fine. However, after his experience, I can't say I blame him for pursueing some 'peace of mind'.

You were at DEFCON 1. Catch my drift? Loose the crass, keep posting in real English, and I'll ditch the DEFCON 4. Fair enough?