RTz

Done...

The problem with this comparison is that airplane engines don't transition (and they don't need to). Ever fly one? If you jam the throttle open, they puke.

Im closing this thread temporarily. Jim, 98% of your posting is totally irrelevant. No one cares what it cost you to run a business out of ebay. Thats your risk and your decision. Please PM me with answers to the following questions... Was the spoiler you sold to Derek made for a Camero? At the time, did you know it was not built for a Datsun? Was it advertised as being built for a Camero? or modified to fit a Datsun? Did you offer to refund Dereks money in a timely manner?

I hope you don't mind me stealing your picture and adding a little comment? The trigger wheel on the left ran fine below 4500 RPM. At or above 4500 it began producing trigger errors (loosing track). The trigger wheel on the right produces no errors. Wolf has been able to read the high resolution row successfully, so it doesn't appear to be a processing problem. Rather, it appears that there is a difference in the optical sensor low res. row. The 'light path' may be broader. Thats my guess, anyhow. I shoud take one apart just for giggles. The successful triggers sync hole is .100" in dia., and about .100" edge-to-edge from the slit.

Nope... not me. That car was insanely clean. I just held the camera up and pressed the PHD button It helps to be 6'-4"

In theory, that could work. In reality, the lack of resolution would be a problem in many cases. Its not steady RPM that poses the difficulty, rather the transient RPM. Take an extreme example... cresting a hill, unloading the tires, and generating significant wheel spin accompanied with an abrupt RPM increase (or a boat that went air born). The 'instant' RPM increase can cause the ECU to 'get behind'. This is not a simple thing, as I understand it. It has a lot to do with internal algorithm's, processing power, trigger priority, etc. Keep in mind, this is not an externally obvious characteristic. There are some systems that implement a 36-1 wheel... but they 'ignore' some teeth. In other words, just because an EMS requires a 36-1 wheel, doesn't mean it calculates 36 teeth... it may very well evaluate every sixth tooth, for example.

I need a cigarette Snapped these at last years Fly-in/Cruise-in...

Jason, You can send your ECU to Wolf for the upgrade. They will return an ECU with hardware and firmware upgrades as well as a TechEdge interface. The upgrade is free, but you'll pay shipping one way which is typically a smidge over $100. Drop me a line sometime, I'd like to hear how things are going.

Post 44... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127993&page=3

I can't top jt1's gift, but I will wish you a very happy Bday

Armand, could you reduce your sig. pic. size, per our rules, please? Thanks!

Disclaimer- I've never touched wrench nor DVM to any Z31, but I'll take a stab... The battery idiot light has no likely connection to the ECU. It very well may be reflecting a charge problem. What is a "sensor light"? With the above info, the first thing I'd be looking into is the charging system. Do you have a voltmeter? What does it say?

Found this with our search engine... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=124985

Thanks Rumnhammer for the pleasant words. I know we had some communication difficulties, and for that I publicly apologize. The unfortunate truth is that you got into the V500 very early and base maps hadn't been established yet. Another contributing factor is that Wolf never advertised V500 as pug N play. They were (and still are) advertised as 'direct-fit'. Today, you can buy a V500 with an RB map that's not too far off. I'd like to add my own 'concrete' experiences. First, some of you know that, until recently, I was a Wolf dealer. I've been involved in a number of Wolf installation's, V4 and V500. Make no mistake, Chris's report of documentation is an understatement. There isn't 5 pages worth reading. Its crap. What I know about these systems I've either learned first hand, through direct communication with Wolfs team, or other dealers. Lead tech. called me a couple weeks ago and we had a nice chat. This was one of the key topics. I'm probably guilty of being the biggest thorn in their bush. I'm sure they're getting tired of my tantrums. However, I've had the opportunity to be involved with a number of EMS's. Not one is 'perfect'. They all have issues. Every one has something I wish they'd do differently. With significant brevity... Wolf's weaknesses... no documentation and initial start-up can be daunting. This is partly due to the flexible nature. Its a trade off, like most things. If you buy a Wolf system, buy from a dealer you trust will provide adequate support. Wolf's strengths... brilliantly easy to tune and tune with consistency (extremely important for high specific output). Flexibility beyond most users imagination (including my own). Exceptional reliability and daily driver friendliness (best I've yet witnessed). Every system has trade-offs. Take your time shopping. There is no best.

Well then, here's to you (foliage is real this time )... I would liked to have set this up on a tripod, stopped the aperture down a bit (to crisp-en the water), but it was windy so it would have been for not. We take what we can get, eh?

Yasin, sorry about your car. I had a very similar thing happen to me a few years ago. I didn't see the two kids (why is there alway's more than one?) until after I came to a stop. I didn't go after the kids... I went straight to the house, knocked, and Dad and I had a chat. Dad was very receptive and had me convinced they'd never do it again (the smoke coming out of his ears added some believability). Fortunatly for me, there was no real damage to my car... I can't say the same about those boy's back-sides

SDS is the easiest system to install/use I know of... and it can work quite well.

The supercharger won't work, at least not like it does in the intake. It seems your forgetting that, while the intake valve is open and cabable of ingesting air, the exhuast valve is closed (for most of the duration anyway). You can't draw intake through a closed exhaust valve. There's 489 other things wrong with the theory but I don't have time to write them. I think not. Also, those CFM ratings are in 'free air'. Introduce a restriction and the CFM will drop significanty. Axial fans suck at making static, pun intended. Juday will confirm that. My honest opinion is that you're barking up the wrong tree. Its not my place to tell you that you can't do something, but I feel your efforts could be better spent elswhere. I hate watching someone shoot themself in the foot... No amount of wishful thinking will change the outcome... its gonna hurt.

If you two don't follow through, you'll both be banned

They are not typically installed with significant restriction on the 'ingest' side. Since you've made the self proclamation of geekage, I bet you can figure it out on your own... convert 2.8 liters to cubic inches, know that a 4-stroke engine displaces half its volume every revolution, factor in time, and bingo... static CFM.

You're right, it wont work on .03v, and yes, the fuel pump should be running while cranking. Try this... pull the inlet boot on the AFM, turn the key to the 'on' position, and push on the AFM door. When the AFM door comes off its seat, it engages contacts to activate the fuel pump relay. You should be able to hear the pump run.

If I understand you correctly, you're talking about 'blowing down the clearance volume'. Part of the purpose of valve overlap is to do just that. And it works very well on its own. However, depending on the engine, it doesn't become efficient until some RPM is generated. At low RPM, as you've implied, there is still a fair bit of exhaust in the chamber, diluting the 'useful' air. Keep in mind that its far easier to push air than it is to pull air. That is the reason we get by on smaller exhaust valves even though the exhaust 'volume' is greater (thermal expansion).