hoov100

The engine harness and chassis harness are all separate as far as I know.

On the low side, to have a long block completely assembled using your parts would be anywhere from $1-8k depending on the shop and their experience with the L-series.

I'll shoot you a PM, if I find anything.

I know I don't need it, but it was free. i actually just put it up for sale, to buy a smaller HOWE double pass radiator.

lMAO, if the 88 sells this week, I've sourced a nice, built sbc and 4 speed trans on the cheap, if it doesn't sell, then I'm still doing the vg swap.

I've got a clean 88 red z31 turbo, that passed smog last month for $2700 if your interested.

i got a clean red 88T shell in palm springs if your interested.

How are you planning on using the c5 IRS with it's trans axle built around the diff?

say a vg30et in a z31 has a garret gt35, at 19psi, with the correct size intercooler, proper tune and fuel system on a stock trans, clutch, diff tires..etc say it all held together. How much wheel HP do you think would be produced?

wouldn't a dyno with a single large roller, read out more power and show a more vertical power band, because a large rotating drum requires less force to rotate the faster it goes?

Just do the body work yourself and have them paint it. If you have an eye for detail and have some patients, as well as basic tools, you should be fine. The only experience with body work is first hand experience.

Don't forget a horn relay and windshield wipers. for the turn signals, you can just use two big flasher relay's, instead of an actual relay.

There are four wires that make the a relay work, a ground, switched +, input and output. on the factory headlight plug their are three contacts, one for high's, one for lows and a ground. jump the switched + wire from the relay to a good hot source and if it works, then then the combo switch isn't getting power..etc

<br><br>When you see your buddy's car hit the wall in turn three and catch on fire, you'll understand my point. The point I'm trying to make about the plastic tank exposed, is that; that plastic is not the same plastic, nor the same thickness as the ones used in car, the ones in cars are made the flex and deform in a crash without cracking. Also most of them from factory have a skid plate, or are way up in the frame.<br><br>Also with only those two straps and four 1/4 inch bolts holding it in place, that plastic cell will deform under loads and crack, assuming the bolts don't break first. Lets also not forget about rear ends and car crashes. Since the vehicle is going to be driven on the street, what is going to happen if you get rear ended at a light or in traffic? One last thing to point out, is the lack of heat shielding for the exhaust, those plastic tanks are very sensitive to temperature and are very thin, especially when they get old.<br><br>Nobody is bagging on your work, but that fuel cell is dangerous the way it currently sits, we/I ***** about it, because we/I care about your safety.<br>

Did you use your brain and check, for spark, air and fuel?

if your planning on doing it yourself, then get reading on how it is done.

One thing I would like to know, is if a dyno that uses a large singular roller corrects the power, as when a large singular mass is spinning at a fixed point, it will take less and less force to move it, as the inertia builds. (like how pushing a car thats already moving takes less effort, then pushing a car from a dead stop)

No offense, I'm not here to talk smack about your work. But that is probably one of the worst ways to mount a cell, in a car, not only will it not pass tech at a sanctioning body, but it very dangerous. It lacks a sheet metal body around the cell, grounding strap and structural support. Also there is nothing to protect the tank from road debris or if the car bottoms out. A correct fuel cell install requires, a 1" steel square tubing cage built around the cell and welded to the frame, a sheet metal box around the plastic cell and a grounding strap. If you plan on using the factory filler neck, a one way check valve at the cell is HIGHLY recommended.

I Really want to go with the howe radiator, but it's just too damn big... Here is the chevy 4 core radiator. This is a stock 1 core z31 radiator And here is the HOWE, double cor of death.

You want some help and advise? learn to help yourself first, THEN ask other people for help. Everything you want to know, has been covered, time and time again. ever hear of the saying "do your research on the swap, before you decide on it" ?? this forum has a great search function, add google in the mix and your questions are answered. (also read the rules, before posting. They are NOT the same as a normal forum)

Dude.. Look at the back of a Vg on google images and then look at the back of your l28. you want better gas mileage? keep your foot out of it, shift early, be smooth and be on the gas just enough to keep your speed consistent.

Boost leak? what boost leak?!?!

This post is made while completely hammered, so please forgive this post if it does not make any sense. I'm just gonna use the z31 front cross member for engine mounts and use it as a "chassis brace"

Lol, so many fails in that pic. That gun has no ammo in it, nor is one loaded in the chamber. he has the muzzle pointed at his rooster, that is probably the worst place to use as a holster, as it will get caught on your belt/pants and takes too long to pull it out and have something in your sights. ontop of that it's a glock! you would be lucky to hit the side of a barn while in the barn!

I find hell as a nice place to relax and cool off, just seems like an eternity getting back to earth though..