hoov100

Save your money on the swap, then go to your local community college and ask to take English 1A and 1B. (not trying to be an a-hole here, but this site takes grammar nazi to a whole new level)

Just go to autozone and ask for a ford starter solenoid, theres only two styles: flush and pedestal mounted, they used them from 1950 to present.

Any z car from 69-96 has the same tail light bulb socket. I used ones from 92, 86 and 78 when I built my wiring harness.

Put some oil or grease on them to keep them from rusting, toss them in a plastic bag and stick them on the shelf. You never know, when they might come in handy.

If it is a 4.75 pound cap, that is your problem. the minimum I have ever ran on any of my cars, is a 16 pound cap.

After looking through a couple pics, it appears to be a VLSD. From xenonz31 http://www.xenonz31.com/vlsdInstall.html

Why? how much did you pay? (I would open a dispute with paypal and/or ebay if that where you bought it)

Call me stupid, but that looks like a regular 'ole 4 pinion open diff.

I'd get rid of that whole system and just use a ford starter solenoid. It makes life very easy.

How many pounds is your cap right now?

It also helps to know what the car is, as the control arm is mounted to the crossmember and the T/C arm in mounted to the frame rail.

Even if it doesnt run.

the serpentine belt pulley? how many ribs and what year? I have a couple laying around.

What did you end up doing with that L28 I gave you?

a carb'd motor can run just as clean as an EFI motor, with the correct tune, but the EFI systems can do it a bit more reliably and not just when it's warmed up.everything in that aspect, depends on your tune.

It's a 280zx 2+2, probably a built L28 stroker with tripples.

Wasnt the tax deadline, like last month?

I have my own rule of splitting lanes. In traffic, only do it when vehicles are completely stopped and even then do no more then 15mph. When passing to cars, make sure they don't know you are there and make sure there is nothing immediately in the road, that would cause them to swerve. I have fallowed those two rules and they have served me well.

It's easier to replace the roof sheet metal then you think.

This is why I ride a crotch rocket. the more you are able to predict the actions of the people in front of you, the more likely the chance that you will not get hit. It's all about how they design these new cars. They don't give any sensation of driving or feeling of the road at all. You feel like your in a floating box going down the road. there is no sensation of speed, no steering feedback, no brake feedback and there are too many little stupid electronic gizmo's that you don't need distracting you. They literally put these stupid little screens right in front of your face. a car is no longer a car, it's merely a disposable transportation craft.

If the floors are good, just build a full length frame out of 1x3" square steel to replace the stock frame and call it good.

I guess thats what I get for duct taping an Iphone to the center console. I'll try it with a legit measuring device next time it's on the track.

I'm gonna be honest here, Me and my brother have used a box stock 750 holley with annular boosters and have not experienced any stalling/sputtering under extremely hard braking with a peak G force of .73 under heavy braking, we have had fuel slosh out of the vent in the secondary float bowl, but no sputtering or stalling because of it.

VDO's are actually pretty nice if your looking for a bare bones and accuracy. over looks, flashiness and advertising.

Are you trying to sell these, or make reproductions?