hoov100

Do what ever YOU want to it, theres more then one in the world, do what makes YOU happy, if you wanna restore it and then set it on fire in front of a large audience go for it! its YOUR car, do what YOU know and what makes YOU HAPPY.

because this site is cooler.

I think you just developed a better alternative to run a z trans with the vh.

some better "progress" solved the charging issue and with how fast the starter turn the motor over, its making want to skip the mini starter swap...

doesnt really matter, as long as its wider then stock, ride height, isnt going to be affected as I'm sure I'll tackle the front first which should give me a base to work with, suspension geometry should (hopefully) stay the same, mounting is going to be easy, as I'm already talking to my cage builder and we both agreed that doing a full length 2x3" frame and raising the floor boards is gonna make a world of difference, but we'll see when it comes time as I'm still looking at a couple different rear ends. I'm not going in totally blind and if i get stuck somewhere i have some BIG resources to help me along the way.

pic?

the manual rack s130's have a steering box and linkage if i remember correctly.

lol, so today i went through my third yellow top optima, i guess my alternator is going out, so it was running off the battery, well needless to say i put the charger on it and the charger shorted out overnight and so it tried charging it at 13v 400amps mode, well the battery didnt like that very much and exploded, so i put on my best chemical gloves and took it to autozone. Well autozone wont just exchange batterys anymore if they are under warranty, so they tried putting it on the charger............ after that mess and a couple chemical burns later they replaced it.

Look, metal!!!!!!!

these two pictures explain whats going to be involved with that project. and maybe a tape measure too, the biggest task i see currently is not going over board on my ramcharger and forgetting about this project.

double wish bones, its been proven to hold insane amounts of power, plus theirs more aftermarket for a miata IRS then their is for the s30's entire suspension.

if it helps my front reservoir is empty as well, i think i may have a leak at the left rear drum, worse comes to worse i get to do the s14/z32 brake swap and rear disc conversion after all!

alright, something is dragging in m brake system, i used to be able to push and pull it with ease to get it into and out of the garage, now i need the truck to pull it and two people to push it i? e-brake is completely disconnected, so I'm gonna pull the drums off and check it all out. (also got my dash in last night!)

turns out they are Kelsey Hayes Kelstar's

if its not tweaked behind the firewall, why not tube out the front?

sell the mechanical autometer for an electric one?

it says on my speedo that 60mph should be 1064RPM in 4'th.

your my new hero...

a little bit of an update, apparently making beer runs in a car with only headlights, no exhaust, no dash, no hood, no plates and won't idle below 950RPM with no registration is illegal in california and apparently there are two deffinition of the word "donuts and "doughnuts" but its cool and he escorted back to my house.

who says you need ITB's to use an aftermarket EFI setup?

I've got the 1/4 window w/glass shipping is $15 flate rate in the US.

ell, sell the mikuni's to get everything you need for the EFI.

I was being general with carbs, as your average new 4 barrel carb is around $350 and around $30 for a complete jet kit, and well triple's go anywhere from $500-$1500 used and i have no idea what the jets go for, but they must be expensive as hell though.

If you setup the carb properly and dont just take it out of the box, change the jets and set the idle, they can be fairly efficient at what they do, no where near as efficient as aftermarket EFI systems, but you can't beat the price tag on a carb though. (not trying to start anything, just saying)

I could build a z from scratch using the info from this sight. (no joke)