hoov100

i lived in them and grew up in one. and well all you have to do is look at my car.

I run this GM 4 core radiator, I think its too a van, but it will keep temps at 220 while sitting in traffic, no fan with ambient air temps around 110-118.

Make a "c" using thick steel drill two holes on either end a there you go engine mounts. (atleast that how ghetto mine are at the moment)

why not convert it to HEI and only have three wires to make it run?

did you even try and find the answer to those questions before you asked?

good points. man they wherent kidding about some assembly required, looks more like complete rebuild required.

So what was supposed to be something as simple as a urethane spoiler removal, turned into a fender project to fix the install of the subtle z flares from the previous owner. (and i bought the car to avoid body work) alright, a little paint stripper and its enough to soften the body filler enough to rip the spoiler end off. then i thought that maybe the ends where held on by bondo and glue, so i started scratching and pecking my way through it with a screw driver and hammer! and whalla! it popped off, after an hour! found some interesting things once that end piece was removed.... then i started to realize why the rear of my car never really looked sharp like the stock body lines of an s30. and yes, that jagged edge of grey paint you see on the right is actually the edge of the fiberglass, it appears then didnt even try to bond the fiberglass with the metal, they just riveted the panel in place and covered it with filler. it wont look too bad bad, once the feners are cleaned and smoothed back to there original shape. i guess i now have to drill out the rivets and start all over, should be interesting, I'm going to do it correctly though.

isnt this picture like 3 years old? (Still gives me a kick)

just an FYI a friend has had three brand new comp cam's go flat on a fresh circle track engine, while on the engine dyno.

WWWWWIIIIIIIDDDDDEEEEE I think I'll stick with my 15x10's after seeing 12's with 4.5 inches of back space mounted... (where did you get the paint stripper i can't find it anywhere!)

all you need from the z31 is the CAS and the ECU and an 83ZXT distributor to put it in, if you want to go the REALLY easy route, you can use the z31 engine harness or move a couple pins on the ECU socket.

If your starting to do stuff like that, why not just dive into the z31 EFI swap?

yeah, let me figure out how much shipping is going to be first.

paypal hoov100@gmail.com an I'm in palm springs, riverside is about as far as i can go at the moment as far as delivery.

to part it out, or to sell it as a whole? (If you part it, i call the whale tail.)

a flat head screw driver to pull up the lip on the bezel, once you slide that off, take a pair of pliers and go around the edge of the gauge housing, pushing the lip up, once you have the entire edge as close to strait as you can get it, push it into the s30 gauge cup, just be easy with it and it should slide in with a little effort. when you have a sbc and TH350 installed everything just kinda bolts/wires up. heres a pic with them and the three F-U gauges installed.

that pics is all we need to come tpo the conclusion that, that car is rigged for failure. do you see the stock 1/4 panel on the inside of the flare?

unless the wheels are 9.5 inches wide with centerline engraved into them, they are knock off's. part it out and make some easy cash, i know i would be willing to buy a few parts.

Finally able to start on the function side of my interior. even though its really scary to break open gauges, it is actually worth it IMO.

5 minutes old.

$20 + shipping? I'll take some pics right now and post them in this thread.

just in case...

I've got a single flare, but unfortunately it only fiberglass.

the only question is, how do i get my hands on some of that money? (trying to make another point about people like that)

its just surface rust that i can tell, but god knows its gonna start eating through at any moment.