hoov100

thats more of opinion then fact, these EFI systems are simple and easy to learn. I would consider the EFI bible a good reference book for new guys who know nothing of EFI systems or how they work. 80% of all problems i have found on EFI s30's s130's and z31's where just corroded connectors, or the AFM.

I can't go drown the truth in alcohol for another year (I'm an 89'er and received a very strict and very educational childhood far away from modern society at the time)

Your not feeling power, you feeling torque, or you have short gears, or both! and since when could we compare boost to nitrous?

All I know for that, is thats its saved me and a few random people stuck on the side of the road, who's injectors "quit working"

I could understand that car going for $7.5k (all options, all original with 38k miles) but not everyone wants a z to be a sports car, look at any z from 1981+ (on a side note a N/A stroker really isnt much after driving one with a turbo.)

personally about $5-6K tops for that car. It doesnt matter how much money you dump into it, or how many piles of receipts you have, you will only get what someone is willing to pay. (and rebello doesnt mean squat to anyone who has never looked into road racing BMW or z engines)

try disconnecting the ECU plug, blow out the connection and plug it back in. It sounds crazy, but has actually worked a few times.

or you could get a remote battery connector, so all you would have to do, is stick your hand in the engine bay, pull out the connector, plug in the custom jumper cable, then connect it to the other vehicle, I'll draw a diagram If you want.

just get a written estimate from a body shop, including parts and labor, then submit one to his insurance, along with his policy number and/or claim number. Your best bet is too call up his insurance company, explain the situation and ask for instructions and what they need to approve the claim.

could you find a set of pistons that have the same pin diameter and bore diameter, but with a higher pin height?

you should keep an eye open on the san diego craigslist, there are tons of great deals going on right now.

lol, my vote is a blown, stock long block ls2 with a t56....

lol, flate base with a 4 inch filter, I just cut a 12.5 inch hole where the air cleaner sticks out and fabbed a shield that sits in front of the filter. The filter itself sticks at most 1.5 inches, but with the domed top it totals just over 2.5 inches, most people now are just making snorkels that go to the front of the radiator and running a cone filter.

check that your ECU is getting power, check your fusible links and fuses.

thats the problem, as I was looking at getting $1300 or so for the roller and all the spares, might sound high, but their is literally only three spots of surface rust, I have literally spent hours under the car looking for rust.

If they want it bad enough, they are going to take it. If you have hood vents and I knew you had an alarm, all i would have to do is break them, reach my arm under them and find the hood sensor, then disable it and disconnect the battery. If you had a secondary battery All i would have to do is to get into the car, fallow the wires and destroy the alarm box, another thing i could do is disconnect the horns and headlights, which would make it almost impossible for someone too notice. If i wanted it REALLY bad, I would make a Ez-steel wiring harness, so once i gain hood access I can install the harness quickly and drive off, then deal with the alarm when i get to a shop or garage, (where i would discover the secondary battery) you best bet is system that pages your cell phone whenever it detects something, or lojack.

If you plan on going with subtle z fenders, be warned that any tire over 245mm's wide with a zero offset rim will stick out.

That whole site just needs to get the fat man virus...

best advice is to not drive at all, as the combination of weak headlights, slow windshield wipers and poor aero at higher speeds, makes these cars a nightmare in heavy rain. Your best bet, is to install projectors, upgrade to a honda windshield wiper motor and have a good set of good all around tires on it and use the summer tires for when you plan on doing some spirited driving, or when the skies are clear.

lol, just for reference, my 07 R1 can barely break into the high 4's low 5's from 0-100, I dont have to shift, but i do have to worry about the front wheel coming up at 80 under WOT in 1'st.

I hate to say it, but thats a whole lot of nothing to do with building a rev bomb, maybe you could use some of it as an outline or an intro to to a write up. Also, just for anyone who's just getting into car's the more RPM you have, doesnt mean the more power your going to make, also, its going to be useless to have a motor that rev's to 10k RPM if you make peak power at say 4k RPM's, generally speaking of course.

thats totally my new signature! :lmao: two speakers in the storage compartments, facing upward would probably be easiest, without cutting holes in the car, I hope that helps at little. As for the way you want to set it up, I dont see a reason why it wouldnt work, worse comes to worse, couldnt you throw in a cheap head unit in the glove box?

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