hoov100

I loved my s130, it was my first z, and really taught me alot about the L-series and the 70s bosch EFI system and the general layout of the s-series chassis, but rode like a couch, and always fired up and ran, no matter how bad i screwed with it. but after buying my first z32 and then my first s30, i just couldnt stand how slow and plush it was, lets face it the s130 is one of those weekend cruisers, thats kind of fast, but not fast enough, but the ride makes up for it. ya know?

can't the BBB help you on this?

that's the problem with my vehicles is that they see double duty, they are driven daily on the street and driven as much as possible though canyons, autox's and the occasional track day. so any little bit will help. as long as I'm not going as far as tapping of the hood and seams to go get grocery's nothing is too much for the street for me.

If your looking for an early z, give me a PM, i have one you might like.

i have no idea what that scoop is for actually. I'm not really worried about the heat, as the car is already going to be hot as hell, but A/C is another option for another time.

thats what i meant by the little doodle ||/ / something like this: what i have for an intake right now is this: http://image.superchevy.com/f/super-chevy-comments/speed-by-spectre/10766466+cr1+re0+ar1/cold-air-intake.jpg

i would pull the sound deaden er off the floor pans before assuming it only has minor rust on the floors. (learned that one the hard way)

what i want to do is tilt the radiator forward about the same angle as a z31's and utilize that air flow to be directed on top of the hood and directed to the sides of the car, with ducting the shape of a " ||/ /" as my air cleaner sticks out the center of the hood. and then sealing off the engine bay as good as i can and run vents just below/behind the center of the front strut tower. and it would just look SICK!

basically just trying to get idea's as I'm gonna have a few months to tinker with the car, the list goes like this. seal the upper grill and make an air box, then make a hood vent and vent ALL of the air from the radiator to the top of hood. make a fiberglass belly pan the covers the entire underside of the car, minus the trans tunnel which will be where the exhaust is routed. make an air dam that covers the front wheels completely. flush mount all of the windows and seal the cowl vents, make a seal for the hood, seal off the fender wells/make smooth fender wells. vortex generators on top and a rear diffuser for the bottom. remove current spoiler and install ??? design/create engine bay vents. Am I missing anything?

So basically putting vents in the wheel wells? lets assume you vent all of the air going through the radiator to the top of the hood, then assume you had the vents in the wheel well along with the flaps in front of the wheels along with the entire wheel covered, would that be a noticeable improvement as opposed to say just a regular air dam with the upper grill blocked off?

Ok, what i have been seeing alot of at the junkyards, are these little flaps placed in front of each wheels, to help push air to the sides of the car and keep the air from hitting the tire. My question is this; would this have any practical application along with SDI-type side skirts for a street/weekend warrior?

napa part #6637 should be in the realm of what your looking for. its about the size of a car battery though. also i would HIGHLY recommend NOT using a gauze type filter with any turbo application. (or really any application for that matter based off personal and first hand experience)

thats your flux capacitor mounting plate.

would it be safe to use pop rivets with back up washers to mount these? as i have fiberglass rear quarters and dont want to risk having them crack.

I personally think this all breaks down into the saying "you have to pay to play" if you dont have a budget to run an F1 car competitively then dont go crying to the FIA saying that the other teams are spending more money then you.

happy birthday man! i would start preparing for the morning after though!

1. you could do either, but if you are already building part of the firewall building a section to mount pedals too shouldn't be hard, the only problem i would foresee with using either the GM pedal setup or a wilwood or tilton setup would be the bracket that connects the steering column to the firewall. 2. 1 piece driveshaft will cause less issues down the road and will make your life easy. as for lining up the diff to the trans, so long as the ujoints dont bind while going through there range of motion you should be ok, just get it as close as you possibly can to lining up. 3.the headers from an ls1 trans am/camaro/GTO should fit no problem, as there is alot LESS space under those hoods then an ls1 in a z32, the problem i could see being is ground clearance and steering shaft clearance. 4.thats a good question, i dont think you would need it, as the system is mechanically controlled and electronically monitored. 5.another good question! trace the wires back as far as you can and i guess go from their, i think they might be for the alarm? I'm sure someone can correct something in my post though, so let them make some posts on your questions before coming to your conclusion.

dude, unless you where around z's when they first came out and fallowed them until today and made a note of every dealer and factory option, you are never going to be 100% certain about it, quit trying to start crap with other users.

I'm good at taking crap and abuse AND volunteered to be the F/S section mod when there was not one. but no, you had to give it to grandpa!

I think luck had more to do with that than anything.

for all the stupid crap i have done in cars/bikes over the years, i have only gotten two tickets. one for 57 in a 45 in my mothers jeep after i totaled my first z32 and the second was for doing 33 in a 25, but i had my feet propped on the bars and was leaning back with my hands behind my head on my R1 (yeah i know, dont need the lecture here either) amazingly with all the stupid crap i have done in my z's I have yet to get a ticket.

radiator from a 280zx will bolt up and is about 3 inches taller and are cheap and plentifull. if your looking to drop $500 on a radiator atleast let it be a nice aluminum one.

sounds like someone put a 6 speed SX trans into your z? when you put it in 6'th it moves forward though right? (gotta make sure)

that explains it.. do you have an intake manifold for a 260z handy?

You two realize your posting in a thread that's 5 years old and the last past is in 2008 right?