auxilary

I am picking up a 97 yzf600r shortly, but it's in San Diego, and I'm in SF bay area. exact address to exact address it's about 480 miles. so I'm looking at 2 options: 1. fly down for 70 bucks funfaire via southwest to SD on june 18th, 8:30, get bike stuff sorted out, leave by around...11am maybe. ride back, without major stops it'd take me 8 hours. total cost: 35 bucks in gas + 70 for plane pro: All done in 1 day. con: 8 hour bike ride in hot weather, possibility of a breakdown or mechanical failure in middle of nowhere. 2. rent a chevy colorado from enterprise with unlimited miles here, drive it TO SD saturday, crash at friend's place, load up bike, drive it back. They won't do 1 way drop off from SD to Bay Area total cost: 130+ misc fees for truck rental with unlimited miles for 2 days, at 22mpg on freeway, ~1000 miles = 45 gallons = 113 bucks in gas at 2.50/gallon. So 243 for round trip for everything pro: AC, no worries about bike mechanical failures on the road, comfort con: more costly, especially in terms of gas costs. will take up the whole weekend to do this. Thoughts?

lololol!

just take a file, and file down corners so you can match a socket to the bolt. that's what i did with a rounded drain plug. also, pick up a small monkey wrench. you'd be surprised how awesome that tool is for removing anything. remember, monkey (pipe) wrenches are designed to tighten and loosen smooth round pipes!

carbed 3 rotor n/a, with high comp. rotors from an na s5 rx7 (GTU, GTUs)

you can, but it's going to be a pain in the ***. I'd just wait until you do everything: brakes, struts, springs, bushings at once. It'll make it much easier, and you can install braided SS lines in place of stockers, and upgrade your brakes while you're at it (syndrome)

oh ok, cool, I'll definitely try to make it then!

****, I have to cover for my coworker and do end of the day process, so I won't get out of work until at least 8pm I'll try to make it if possible though.

I'm sure that skid/yaw control can be disabled manually somehow. Look around 350z forums, maybe there are tidbits on it?

i dig the wheels. I'd want a set in 16x8 myself

in dec. of 04, I had a standing signed dealer quote for a brand new 04 350z base model for $24,700 out the door, tagged, titled, registered. Invoice price was 24,800 I didn't get it though, but I did some damn good arguing

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4552403642&indexURL=2#ebayphotohosting

30 years of technological advancements will do that I suppose

i concur with johnc. i took a 350z out for a test drive, and it gripped. it really really gripped well. It had power where it needed to be, it had lots of grunt, and it had good brakes. If I had money to spare I'd probably own one or an mr2 spyder

they look like oldschool hayashi racing wheels. edit: actually they're WORK wheels. The url gives it away. My friend's shop actually sells those.

group buy info here: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=543849#post543849

CV conversion eliminates the r200 swap handling issue (issue does not really exist in 280z) http://betamotorsports.com/benchracing/R200handling.html

it's a GM with an intank pump, isn't it did they give you vasoline before bending you over?

I'll try my best to go, also maybe DavyZ will go? The problem is that I may be going to SD to pick up my bike the same day

first thing? TIRE PRESSURE! low tire pressure makes wheels incredibly difficult to turn. What size tires are you running?

the smaller bar is suspension techniques unit, it uses modified rear crossmember brackets (you know, the ones teh curved rear diff crossmember bolts to, and I'm not talking about the diff mount crossmember). The larger bar is the MSA/ADDCO unit that bolts to the frame in front of the diff, and you have to drill out holes behind the seats to mount it.

Let me double check, because I'm not sure if I'm buying them just yet... Let me get back to you tomorrow

Jerry quoted me 400 + 100 core charge for stock control arms for a set of LCAs and TC rods. He said if I can get 10 people on a group buy, he'll do 10% discount. However, he makes about one set of these a week or so on the side, so it will take a while to fill the orders. Coincidentally, my tax refund of 418 bucks came in... that exactly covers the item and shipping

it's not a fascionation but a work around if you don't want to cut up your strut towers to weld in camber plates. You also don't want to make your TC rod shorter, actually, you'd probably want it longer to increase caster. Increased caster results in better behavior at high speed turns, while makes steering more difficult at low speeds. ie. better for road courses than autox. By replacing the TC rod with adjustable piece and custom end link, you also eliminate possibility of snapping the TC rod on lowered vehicles. that, and they look cool

edit your post and remove threats, internet can hurt you if someone reads it