auxilary

yeah, i remember checking out your (or was that your wife's?) sks... wanna sell it?

nope. AK47 has been on california's ban list for a long time

here's a simple break down: how often do you change the timing belt on a 4 banger? hondas and toyotas are every 60k miles. What happens when you don't replace the timing belt at recommended maintenance window, and it breaks on you later? right. you find out that the honda and toyota motors are indeed interference motors, and wind up with bent valves and dinged pistons. Ever thought that this might apply to a rotary as well? But since the rotary has no timing belt, valves, cams or pistons... deep rotary maintenance is to pull it apart, inspect, replace parts as necessary. basically a rebuild.

enfield has a detachable mag, SKS is loaded through stripper clip this would be for plinking, not hunting

Enfield sites on the #4 mark 1 take some getting used to.... but once accustomed it can be relatively accurate. I picked off a 3" target (half an orange clay pigeon) at about 120 yards while standing... granted it took me 5 shots, but I got it enfield is a heavier and larger rifle than the SKS, so it's easier to control and kickback is different. and it's bolt action. I liked the SKS quite a bit myself, that's why I'm debating which one

russian made SKS, really nice. also shot: enfield .303 carbine, enfield #4 mk1, mk2 in excellent condition, springfield .22 bolt action (most accurate rifle i ever fired, and it's over 80 years old!), .357 magnum, ruger 10/22 rifle (not new, owned one before just like this one), ruger .22 pistol. That was fun. Now I'm debating whether to get and SKS or enfield? I have a downpayment on an enfield .303 #4 mk1 ($180), or I can cancel that and get a Yugo SKS for about 200-225 (california prices are always higher )

btw, 72nr, I don't know if you saw this... http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=38615

Did you maintain them properly? How did they die? My friend and I pulled a 13b na out of his GTUs with 176k on the clock. It was a running motor pulled out to do a turbo swap.

brandon.... 1. rotaries don't have cylinders. maybe you're thinking of the 4 rotor 767b motor mazda used in f1/lemans racing, which is now not allowed. And it's technically 2.6 liter. Or 5.2, depending who measures it. On rotary forums, it's chicken vs. egg deal. 2. mazda has produced a 3 rotor version called the 20b, with sequential twin turbo setup that produced roughly 300-310hp and matching torque. These, of course, were underrated due to Japan's gentlemans agreement (no JDM production cars to exceed 287hp). 3. rotaries are NOT fuel efficient by any means.

IMO, it's always best to check out a car in person rather than go by some stranger's word on a car you can't see. I'd look for one in texas, california, or arizona if you want one in good shape with minimal rust. It may be worth while to tow a rust free Z rather than buy a rusty one cheap and do all repairs

......... sound like words of the uneducated, imo. There are plenty of 100k+ turbo2 series 4 and 5 rx7s running around. FDs had the issue with apex seals blowing because of US emission laws. And newsflash: the renesis engine is still a wankel motor with apex seals

homeworld?

http://www.woot.com/woot_detail.aspx# click the link by the razor

actually, there's no bushing for the transmission either: it's solid, and mike d. machined solid aluminum bushings for it instead of rubber this is going to be a heck of a jittery ride

so yesterday I was wrenching on the car, welding up plates and mounting the motor again. My friend and I are mounting up and measuring the motor in the car, when the aforementioned welder comes in, who would've been doing the welding on stainless for me for a good price. Instead he was a jackass He comes in, sees the motor repositioned, and goes "Hey! Look at that! you listened to me, and now you're mounting the motor up properly! Now, isn't that better?", in a very sarcastic tone. I'm wrenching on a bracket, tell him "yup" right as I'm letting one fly right in front him. Quietly. He walks away, and comes up at a later time, and sees the header I got from a buddy. it now fits. He looks around at it, examines it, and I am watching his face make an unpleasant grimace. We get back to the car, and I slap the new header onto the motor, it clears frame rails, I bolt it down and strap the turbo to it. I look over at the welder, and see his facial expression read: I got owned. revenge is best served cold, 2 weeks later, in a diplomatic fashion without using a single word of foul language

Fully aware of the welding - those are just tack-in welds to hold the plates together while we drilled them out. However, the welds you see are my doing (not bad, IMO, for a first time ever with a mig), and the plates are held by bolts just to support the motor. I am going to make another plate with redrilled bolt holes to raise the motor a hair for testing, and whichever works best, I will get tig welded nicely. Those plates are 1/4" thick, so not exactly mig friendly. Bolts are in place just to hold the plates together and support weight of an unmoving motor for now. The crossmember bolts will be doubled in number, so 6 bolts total supporting it to the crossmember, with doubler plates and spacers on top to make sure metal is not warped under pressure. I will also try to devise a better mount to distribute the twisting force of hte motor rocking side to side in turns. But this design works much better for the exhaust manifold and such

now, are those with any performance parts, or just complete OEM l28et?

http://hybridz.org/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=38589 one thread below this one

http://www.craigslist.org/eby/car/49245736.html ls1240z from this board is selling his

Had to scrap old motor mounts. Everything wasn't sitting right. Repositioned motor, measured everything 10 times over to make sure it was a proper fit: New crossmember mount. Somewhat cheating here, using a 1st gen rx7 front engine cover with front mount bolts, '85 gsl-se rx7 oilpan, will relocate pickup to the front. Motor, manifold, turbo. Darwin award candidate right there I wound up using the stock 240z tranny mount. Drilled out a hold to be bigger, and what do you know - lines up within 1/4" height difference! Because plasma cutters are fun! Exhaust manifold fits. At this point the motor isn't mounted, it's sitting on a block of wood. As the president of , I am proud to represent. Test fit with turbo And engine finally mounted via the front mount to the crossmember, properly set (i hope!) this time.

wow! a dash that's chassis reinforcement as well!

i'll use either a 1st gen rx7 oilpan with pickup moved to the front, or a moroso custom unit that holds 6 qts and is onyl 4" deep

answers: it's prefabricated piece that I thought I couldn't use. We're redoing the motor mounts, and looks like it will work after all with some refitment. Borrowed it from a friend. Why am I doing it while hte car is6 feet in the air? A lot easier to measure and align everything when you're not on your back under a dark car. What is that little green car? It's my friend's Z coupe, a 600cc 2 cylinder honda coupe from early 70s. Yes, it does run So... long story short, there'll be an aux manual on how to do a rotary swap there are some things you guys would laugh at, like this: and

there it is! got room?

Uhm, neons are notorious for showing overestimated speed. I own one