EMWHYR0HEN

^^^^^ There you go!

Having owned a S14 blacktop SR20DET and currently owning a VQ35DE I would have to go with the VQ. I don't want to get into it because im kind of biased right now but, the main reasons being the N/A power/throttle response, torque, simplicity & lower heat over turbo engine.

Ive got mine placed behind my passenger seat. I'm using an odyssey battery but, I'd only use a drycell if it's placed inside. The only real danger I see is a short so use fuses and a kill switches if possible. During all tech inspections tech's will check that the batteries are securely fastened to the chassis, and that all positive poles are covered (plastic, rubber etc.)

The VQ swap actually isnt that bad. The RB and VQ swaps both need: Driveshaft modding, engine and tranny mounts, a little bit of wiring/ learning schematics ( if stock electronics are uses) EFI plumbing, FPR, exhaust, and optional radiator mods. With the RB youl need a rear sump oil pan and pickup, intercooler, I/C piping, and BOV. With the VQ youl need a different external shifter mount, mod the fuel rails, and trim the x-member. I think they're both equally as "hard", at least from my perspective. If you do go with the VQ youl end up with a setup that has roughly 50HP more, 100 LBS lighter, and a six speed gear box. Not to mention youl have a powerplant that was sold here in the states so parts/aftermarket are readily availible.

Congrats Austin. Maybe I'm going def but, I think the noise is just right for a classic.

That highway looks like angeles crest in acton.

Awsome. Glad you got it figured out. Now all you need is a video!

Found this graph for Toe. http--www.smartracingproducts.com-pdfdocs-toe_settings.pdf

I'm wondering are there any charts or formulas on how to convert inches into degress to adjust camber, caster and toe? I'm sure it varies from car to car because of wheel sizes and different suspension parts but, can someone get me started here?

Your probably riding on your bumpstops. When you lower the car you loose bump travel. If you lowered your car 3'' you lost 3'' of travel and you need to regain some of the travel back by shortening the strut housing and replacing your struts for shorter ones.

Dave- You should have heard it with the straight pipe! Next time you come by we can go for a spin. The Bilstien's feel good. They are just about as stiff as my old Koni 8610's. I'm probably going to get them revalved some time later as i'm not too happy with the rebound rate. Z-ya Thanks! You know A VQ swap would make a hell of a swap for your current project.... I know your goals are different but if I could have swapped the VQ before the RB I would have been much happier even it was still my daily.

For some 350Z owners bleeding the air out is a whole day event so don't worry about it. You might want to try lifting the front of the engine while leaving the rear lower to alow air to come up. Also, if your running a heater it helps to leave it running while you add liquid when the engines running. It's no surprise to me why it's so hard to bleed the engine for air. The dahm thing has a million passages and hoses!