Austin,
When my reaction disc was off the push rod I didn't have an on/off pedal it was just mushy up top and had a deep throw. I ignored it for quite some time and drove it like that. After spending hours messing with everything else I had already checked I was amazed that the mushiness was caused by a simple little piece of rubber in the booster.
It's good to see someone actually taking a plunge and trying this out. Your doing some nice work. However, I would be concerned about weight as your adding a lot of thick material.
Also, how are you going to go about adjusting caster?
Looks good Austin that should help. I actually drove my car a good distance the other day and at cruising RPMs the drone is really bad, I was almost deaf when I got out of the car. I think the drone is a characteristic of most V6's partly because of the 1-2-3-4-5-6 firing order.
You know... 2 turbos will bring the drone down a bit
I friend of mine had Nismo wheel studs on his s13 and broke them all the time. He's switched over to ARP and has never had a problem since. They might even be a little cheaper..
Dave,
I'm also looking at getting one and the stub axles/ half shaft thing is still iffy to me. It would be really helpfull if you could give us some feedback on the situation.
Austin and I have a similar setup and I can't tell any difference in steering effort. The car still handles like I remembered. The main thing I noticed is that the car is much more planted when transitioning weight from side to side ex. slalom, switchbacks etc.
I think Youl be happy with a 3.54 rear end. It won't be as much fun as the 3.7 but youl be able to whale on the gears a little longer. You own a 350Z so you know what a 3.54 rear end feels like with a VQ so just imagine it with smaller diameter wheels and 1000 lbs lighter.
Anyway, sounds good dude! IDK if you noticed but the non-revup engines sound much more throatier. I think my exhaust note sounds droney compared to yours.
Ive been using an Odyssey for almost a year now and no problems so far. As some have mentioned you cant draw power from it for long periods of time. When I got my car aligned my brakes were applied for a while and the brake lights stayed on. Sure enough my there wasnt enough juice to turn over the engine.
I would go for it if you only need the battery mainly for starting.
Seems like just a bunch of carbon bling for double the price. I'm sure the average gearhead could do much better with a regular GT-R and 80 grand to spend in mods.
Wheel spacers will probably be your cheapest option - even with the price of new wheel studs/nuts.
How much caster are you running right now? I don't see anything wrong with moving the t/c rod forward although excessive amounts will increase steering effort.
John,
Could you share some of your alignment settings when you used the quaife and maybe some alignment/setup with the welded diff. It woud be nice to see the contrast between the two.
Ive decreased the amount of caster, and softened my rear sway bar even thinking about removing it. I'm also looking at a wider tire for the rear and running less camber as well.
Nothing interesting happening over here. I just swapped out my 4.11 rear end for a 3.54.
Now i'm just trying to concentrate on how to get the car to stick and brake better. It's much better with the 3.54 though. It's not as much fun but it is more tame and I can actually use my 1st gear now. Still having traction problems so a wider stickier tire and suspension changes are in store.