EMWHYR0HEN

Cameron, If I remember correctly you running 200 ish lbs springs..? It would make sense to me to increase your spring and shock rates to take advantage of the stiffer chassis.. Plus it might help reduce roll from the added weight of the V8.

It looks like you wont be able to remove your drive shaft. That's going to be a problem in the future. My seat mounts are much closer together than yours and I wasn't able to run any tubing across the trans tunnel on the rear lateral tube becuase I couldn't install the driveshaft. I thought of making it detachable with some kind of flange but decieded it probably wasnt worth the effort.

As Jon mentioned I was trying to balance things out with the previous setup. I'm trying to find a pad with a medium to high initial bite that doesnt have such a high operating temperature. I know that's kind of rare, but I know there has to be something in between. I'm actually considering on tossing the street pads because they don't provide the tourqe i'm looking for. The car will be driven to and from track events and occational "spirited driving" so I don't know if it's a good idea. I was thinking Hawk blues, blacks or Porterfeild r4's all around.

I actually wanted to make my seat mounts like that at first but, I didn't know that they would end up ouside the car like that. The 2 lateral tubes you have running across look to be kind of far apart. What kind of seats are you mounting? I'm still curious on how your going to attach that to the rocker and if your going to be able to remove your drive shaft.

Up front i'm using Wilwood "smart pad" BP-10 which is essentialy a street pad. Info: http://brakepads.wilwood.com/01-selection/bp10.html Graph: http://brakepads.wilwood.com/02-graphs/bp10.html It pretty much has a constant friction coefficient that is low. If you look at the graph It really doesn't have any "bite". I'm running Porterfield R4-S on the rears.

More pics for reference.

I think my MC bore sizes are fairly large for a dual MC setup I think that's why I have such a hard pedal. The MC's have a max stroke of about 1'' and with the pivot moved up 1'' I have to depress the pedal about 5/8 of the way to lock them up. I'm running "street pads on all fours. I'm kind of confused as I wanted something with more initial bite than what I have now but, I do have to get used to all of this so maybe it's just me.

I was expecting this. I'm glad I bought a set of good used tires. In your experience what methods worked best to find the right F/R bias? So far ive thought of: 1. give the pedal lots of pressure and adjust until fronts lock slightly before rear. 2. recording F/R brake temps and adjusting bias so that fronts are 150-300 degrees higher? 3. locking up rears first, then slowly increasing front pressure or vica versa. 4. other?

Adding .083'' plate to the rocker and tranny seems a bit over kill of your already welding it securely to the floor If your doing a full cage to spec as well the plates are even more over the top IMO.

I got everything installed today and I was able to do a little testing around a few empty parking lots. The good news is I'm able to lock up the rear wheels when I adjust the bias towards the rear. The pedal is very firm and you have to give lots of pressure to get the wheels to lock. Feels good at high speeds and when pads are up to temperature but kind of sketchy at low speeds almost feels like you can't stop fast enough. I better hit the leg press.

I started by cutting peices off the pedal box that would interfere with the balance bar and master cyclinder pushrods. I used 16 gauge steel for the master cylinder mounting plate and welded it on top of the exsisting surface on the pedal box. After drilling holes I reinforced the mounting surface with gussets and thick strips of steel. I moved my MC pivot point up 1'' on the pedal to achive a pedal ratio of about 6.2. After welding the sleeve to the pedal I welded 1/4'' strips to reinforce the area on the pedal where the balance bar sleeve is located. I'm using the Tilton balance bar part # 72-250 Tilton 15/16 MC Wilwood 3/4 MC (same dimentions as the Tilton MC Just wanted to compare quality....go with Tilton.) Tilton remote cable adjuster # 72-501 i'll have more pictures of the install soon. Thanks again Cary for the pics.