EMWHYR0HEN

Thanks for the comments guys. I also agree that using camber plates to adjust camber is more straightforward. However, having adjustable LCA's w/ a spherical rod end I can now adjust my track width, caster (without bind), and then adjust camber up top with the camber plates. The more adjustability the better. I also agree that we should be more concerned with stress/strain and fatigue on a part like the LCA. I think most if not all stock control arms are designed to absorb impact and break before transfering that load to the chassis. With that said my new arms probably don't stand a chance with the extreeme conditions like hitting a curb, but with the design and 3/4'' threads (overkill) I think they'll go the distance. I'll probably end up replacing the aluminum turnbuckle with a steel one.

Grade 8 bolts 1/4-1 1/2'' have a yeild strength of 130,000 PSI. Yeild strength: The maximum load at which a material exhibits a specific permanent deformation. I think it's plenty considering the car weighs less than 2300 LBS. How can I find out the load capacities for the aluminum turnbuckle? I think i'll have more peace of mind with steel ones...

There was too much bind with the stock poly bushings up front because of my desired caster so I decieded to replace the bushing with a heim joint. I made the LCA on the car adjustable which uses a 4'' turnbuckle with left and right hand threads. On one end of the turnbuckle is a 3/4''-16 heim joint with a 5/8'' bore. On the other end is just used a 3/4''-16 grade 8 bolt. I made the arms in a way so that smallest adj. size would be the stock length. The arms can extend .625'' and still keep a safe engadgement so that means I can adj. my front track width up to 1.25''. Should that be more than enough to work with? i'm going to raise my pivot point on the X-member I wondering if i should move it out as well. The turnbuckle is made out of aluminum. Anyone have anything to say about that? I got everything from www.Midwestcontrol.com Great prices, huge selection, and the most important thing, they post the SPECS! The pictures are pretty much step by step. Stay tuned for my chrom-moly tube rear control arms. I already got a jIg made!

My guess is that there's other places that look like that too. If your looking for a quick fix just patch it. The 240Zs were built with somewhere around 20 guage steel. Most people repair/replace with 16 gauge which is more than enough.

G37, G35, E46 M3, and I still like the idea of a Turbo 1JZ or 2JZ in a 1st gen. IS300 or an SC300... if you like to build things. If you want to try something different, Caddy CTS-V. My neighbor has one, It's a beast. I'd stay away from the euro four wheel drives. By the way every kid today has an Evo or STI.

Ive seen tha kind of threaded tube before, isn't that for steering arms? what's the wall size? I'm not too familiar with the Z31 front suspension and what kind of loads this peice takes on, but i'd be concerned about running those tubes if they are indeed for steering. Also, since you got rid of the rubber insulator for a heim joint the t/c rod is going to encounter more force than before.

Monte Carlo

The TTT T/c rods do not use any rubber or poly. I wouldn't recomend it for a daily unless you run a bushing in between so that the rearward shock loads arent so bad on the frame. If you don't need the adjustability just make sure your stock t/c rods are in good shape by inspecting them carefully. John C. recomends using a conbo of rubber and poly with the poly on the same side as the nut.

I've seen a guy pulling a 26' jet boat with a C5 Vette before which blew me away when he pulled the sucker out of a steep sliperly launch ramp. What you have there is just right. Oh, Sick bike. Do you ride that thing on the highway?

Hmm you have good pedal pressure but your brakes dont work...? Did you put the pads in? I'm assuming you bench bled your master, adjusted the rod out ( if you used a 15/16) at the same time making sure your reaction disc is in place, then bled ALL four corners making sure of no leaks. A little more details of your problem would help.

My SFC goes straight back from the T/C brackets so they are a little outward from the engine bay frame rails. Wheather you do it like jimbo or me, the SFC is going to line up near point "B". It's not goimg to be in the way of the suspension. Good luck.

Yes it connects to the rear subframe.

Brian, Your car is super clean throughout, I like. Sweet video. Less yap-yap and more car awsomness.

Cool drawing. To be honest with you I think the floor structures are totally unecessary. I think guys that go 4x4ing don't even go that far. If your floors are rotted out just replace them with the zedd findings floors or buy some sheet, and use some rectangular tubing for the SFC. I've actually just gone through this and If I were to do it again, I would use 2x2 sq. tubing instead if 1x3 because you want a tube with more depth for the SFC. Here's the thread I posted : http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=125985&highlight=rust+removal