EMWHYR0HEN

Looking forward to see you work, post pics! You seem really confident in what your doing, I wish you luck.

Make sure to post numbers in the process and when finished. I really think your overshooting your expectations in every way. By the way, I thought it's going to be a road car?

I don't think a s2k setup is going to get you to 2k Lbs.

Don't get me wrong the f20 is a masterpeice of it's own kind. The fact that it can produce a high hp outout and be fuel efficient at the same time makes it great dual purpose engine. However, I think it's torque curve isn't very desirable for a car weighing more than 2000 lbs. I would personally opt for the torquier 2.2L. Just curious, have you ever driven both of the models?

The F20 came in the early s2000's before Honda deceided to bump the displacement to 2.2L. Great engine for road race. However, Gutless for daily and drag IMO. What does a complete (w/ trans and everything to get running) F20 cost these days?

Not exactly sure what you mean, I'm thinking something like this? Sorry for the crappy pic. If the loads of this peice are laterally, would boxing it really help much? Brian, Thanks. I'll have more pictures of the dash in the interior section soon.

It's been a while since my last update, and now that I see my previous pictures it's been a productive month to say the least. Engine bay: I used round tube to connect back of strut towers to the cowl where the gussets are, and used 16 ga sheet on both ends to spread the load. The front core support area was messed up from previous accidents so I chopped it off and used 1'' x .085 round tube to connect the top frame rail to the bottom frame rail in the shape of an X. Next I fabbed up some new engine mounts that placed the engine 1/2'' lower and 3'' back. With the engine in place I made a latteral STB using the same 1'' round tube. Floor: I fabbed up some seat mounts using 2'' x 16 ga square tube cutting one side of the tube and welded nuts on th inside for my seat brackets to bolt onto. I also used the same materials to connect the seat mounts from side to side inside the trans tunnel. Then again I used the square tube to connect from rocker to rocker for the transmission mount. I seam sealed all my work using the sealer John sugested. Hard as hell to brush on smooth, but worked great. Finally, painted all the exposed metal with Rust Bullet with a small 1/4 nap roller and brush. I'm still concerned about the core support replaced with the X bars. I was thinking of running another bar on top of the X laterally. Is what I have now enough?

Maybe i'm just too practical, But what's wrong with the original S30 rear suspension layout? What are the main advantages of running the S13/4/Z32. etc. rear suspension? Heres what I see: Large selection of differentials Lots of aftermarket parts 5-lug option beefier axles Cons: Heavy Cost and time of fabrication I agree with John, Keep it simple. Besides, there's TONS of ways to upgrade the rear suspension on the S30.

That's my worst fear, I feel sorry for the guy. But For something that big and high and value It would take some serious planning to yoink that thing, not your average crack heads. Just let's you know if someone really wants something, they'l find a way. Protect your toys!

I just spent more than an hour reading that. Those pictures are UNREAL! Better than National Geographic, hands down.

If you don't want a progressive rate spring your going to have to go with coil overs. You need to do alittle more research, and if you do you find that Hybridz's archives are filled with almost too much info.

I Agree with Pop. No clunking or anything?

John, Your work looks great! it's good to see some pictures because plumbing is the next thing on my list. Did you get your 3-way tee's, and rubber lined brake line clips also at Auto Zone? Ive found that stuff online only.

that's quite a roost your shooting there. So, what are the specs?!