EMWHYR0HEN

whoa, that car makes a 240Z look big. Now thats just weird.

I think they look sweet. They would look good with zg flares but you would still need something with more - offset to fit nicely. what exactly are you trying to find out about the wheels? search google?

It seems like the title of your thread should have been " someone PLEASE convince me to go SR20 " seems like your heading that way, so i'll try to convince you. Ive had an S14 SR20DET before, and finding parts isnt hard at all. You can cross reference lots of engine parts (even internal parts) from the USA from the SR20DET's cousin, the SR20DE. There is also PLENTY of aftermarket support for that engine, which you probably already know. Fuel consumption is one of your constaints, and I can tell you In My S13 w/ SR I averaged 26 highway and somewhre around 18 city, and thats driving lead footed here and there (the way we all drive!). I Havnt driven any Sr powered Z's but i can tell you that my S13 ran consistent mid to high 13's on street tires and at 3000 ft elevation. You put that kind of power in a smaller mass Z and all the numbers just get better. However, if you do go that way, May I recomend getting an S14 SR. bigger, ball bearing turbo, VTC , better intake manifold, and easier to work on. hope that helps.

Oh, good. I brought up that VTC thing just out of the blue and it happend to be one of your problems, am I a psycic or what? Yeah, now I remember. The VTC is connected to the O_2 sensor and AAC valve. check n make sure your getting power and let us know how that engine runs.

oh com'on fellas.... who's the freak who serached the vid on utube...? I mean..... seriously....? hah

Well to help you with the title of this thread, why put an engine with less displacement and cylinders than what it originally came with? If you really want to stay L6 and have a more modern engine and good foundation to build on look into the RB's or Toyota 1JZ. You have to really know what your trying to go for overall in your car. From what it seems, your trying to build a weekend car/track car. With a RBDET or 1JZ just left bone stock in Z, I think would be plenty to have fun at any racetrack. But if stock engine is not for you and want to get dirty, build an "L" engine.

man those are like 3 x bigger than my froint brake. Nice fab.

BBS LM 3 peice. Basically you make you own wheel, and if you dent it, or want to change, you just change that peice. http://www.bobwoodmantires.com/wheels/wheels.html

Yeah he was a bit jerky wasnt he? haha im a hater. that car has some serious power, and brakes!

Deer : 1 Michael's Sentra : 0 I say you settle the score and go hunting for deer! You did the right thing though.....

Nicely done Chris.... I like the peice of shirt on the valvecover, haha j/k. By the way did you bother to power the VTC? I know alot of people who disregard it when its actually good for a few ponies and TQ below 4 grand.

Hey that's a great idea. Nice fab work. However, I think a lot a stress will be on that point where the coilover lower housing overlaps the stock housing and on the weld it self. I would maybe reinforce that area. I know its too late, but I think you should have not cut so much off of the stock lower housing so that there would be more surface area of the stock one peice housing under the new coilover housing.

Well the freezing point of a 60% ethylene glycol (coolant/antifreeze) is around -60 dergrees F. I think its very unlikely that the plug is there to pop out if it freezes.

well, I dont know about any numbers when it comes to seats, but i do know that you should get something a little wider so you have a little room to grow. As for me i'm only growing horizontally and my recaro is getting a little tight, ha so consider that. If you want a reclineable I sugest a Recaro, because of its high quality and comfort. If you want a non reclineable, Go with Sparco. Good quality name for the money.

Holy SH*T! thats a Big... Big BIT*H. Cant stop laughing!

Holy SH*T! thats a Big... Big BIT*H. Cant stop laughing!

ok that pretty much clears that up. Thanks guys

Wow, great writeup Chris. I think you pretty much covered it all!

Well in in the process of changing my M/C to the 15/16 and new KVR pads for the 4x4's and shoes for the rear. My Brother was helping me and het put the jackstands on the framerail and it kinked my hardline (dont ask). well I think its about time I change them anyway, at least the front ones. I'm thinking of bending the FRONT hardline from the M/C to the stock proportioning valve, Then bending 2 new lines from the valve to LF and RF. My question is: If its possible, Can I use a larger diameter hard brake line? I'm thinking that the larger the line the more volume of brake fluid can pass through the line and into the calipers. However, i'm also thinking that the increase in volume will decrease pressure resulting in softer pedal. Has anyone tried this, or have some experience with playing w/ lines? also, im very unfamiliar with lines, what is the size of the stock hard lines, and what is the size of the stock threads on the ends of the lines? Thanks in advance.

Either: A. Your a theif B. Your carefull C. Your lucky

Your making me want my car to be black again! Looks great, thats gonna be one shiny car.

Lookin good! Are you keeping it yellow? or is that just the primer color?

Check it out. Good luck!

I did the same thing. It was my first paint job so I got most of my advice from a nice guy that owned the paint shop I bought paint from. Did that make sence? ha, anyway I did all dents/ body filler onto straight metal then shot 2 thick coats of surface primer. sanded that smooth with 400, then 600. Shot the first coat of paint and messed up bad. My gun was set incorrectly, my speed was too slow/ fast in places, and my gun distance was wrong. However, it was kinda good because I then let it dry and sanded it smooth again withot breaking into the primer. I got more tips, read somemore articles on how to spary the paint and did it again. Shot 4 coats of single stage paint, let it cure then sanded it with 1200, and then 2000. Then rubbed it out with 3m's "tan" compound and finished it off with Mgueires (I cant spell) Gold wax. I think for the lack of time I spent, lack of knowledge, and a single stage paint, My paint job came out good. Now the real test is in the long run to see how my paint will stand up to all the elements, But im here in sunny CA so not too worried. I hope this kinda brings some confidence to your game because I was freaked out the entire time thinking that my piant was gonna come out crappy. I'll post some pix.

Congrats on the finished swap, sure looks great! By the way is that thing strictly a track car?