BRAAP

Thanks Derek. If anyone else comes across these vaginal yeast infections, let us know either by clicking the "Report" button at the bottom left corner of the offending post, notify one of staff via PM or public notice, etc. We are starting to see more and more of these losers that serve NO purpose to humanity on any level, their latest technique is to disguise their post with a fake signature, solid line above it, then randomly find threads to cut and paste their random comments and faux sig that generally don't fit the thread subject, ("saw wood to" in the engine weights thread?!). Thanks guys, HBZ staff

Grumpy, You might try craigslist for your area. I tried a quick search on eBay, didn't find anything, but I may not be using the correct search terms. Hope that helps, Paul

I think we may have gotten your request taken care of this time....

...And Pinned.

I build my own using a sheet of gasket paper available from most auto parts stores. Helps to have a gasket punch set to punch the small hole,s bolt and oil feed. Hope that helps, Paul

"Some say, he likes to Necropost on Japanese car forums... " http://www.liveleak.com/view?i=230_1232853493

Ok, I think we got it now..

Flying coach is a crap shoot when it comes to requests, though we tend to put our more qualified personal in charge of requests for our first class passengers.

Not sure if this helps anyone else but per a request, I did a quick dimensioning and sketch up of the Q45 pinion flange;

Drax is a great guy. Had the wonderful opportunity to meet him and his lovely wife a year ago or so, tossed him the keys to my favorite hot rod to drive around, I think he wants one.. Yeah, where has Stony been hiding out?

I recommend not using Cork gaskets on any modern engine, (by modern I mean anything made since the 50's with machined gasket surfaces). They are fine for engines made in the 1920's when trying to seal an as cast surface and will be replaced frequently any way. For sealing machined surfaces, paper or rubberized gaskets are the way to go, in some instances, even a fine bead of silicone alone, no gasket is fine. Any of the other valve cover gaskets will work great, leak free, etc so long as they are not cork and be sure there is absolutely no residual gasket material left on the head or valve covers sealing surfaces. Even a small spec left behind will be prone to leaking oil down the side of the head. If not using a gasket other than a bead of silicone alone for the L-series valve cover, be sure the valve cover will clear the spinning cam gear/chain as clearance here is already pretty close, especially on heads with cam tower shims. Hope that helps, Paul

The original bushing is what you need to remove. That bushing consists of an inner steel sleeve, the rubber isolator material and an outer sleeve as picture below. The next outer sleeve is part of the control arm, do not remove that.

Pattern for the valve cover is not critical. I use a speed handle and spin them all down to touching, no particular order or pattern, then I step up the tightness making several passes around them all as I increase the torque. If using the Felpro valve cover gasket or some other rubberized/coated valve gasket, I use a thin film of oil on both sides, (usually just smear a thin film on the the head and valve cover surface), allows you to reuse the gasket for a few years of frequent valve cover removal.

This is the route I have been using on Z car front control arm bushings, (rear outers, ZX and 510 fronts and rears as well) since the late '80's. The press method should also work just fine, probably faster especially if you have custom built push and receiver fittings for it. Just be careful not to deform or squish the control arm.

Just the other day on another forum, LSx newbs were making claims that the LSx Drive By Wire throttle was only used engines with a certain crank trigger tooth count, then that theory changed to somehow being tied to the material the block was cast from... I agree, LSx books are an invaluable resource for budding LSx swapping enthusiasts. In this link is compilation of a few worthy LSx books; http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php?/topic/72815-“swap-gm-ls-series-engines-into-almost-anything”-book/

Finally got around to cleaning up the original post and updating it to match Photobuckets changes since 2007.

Ahhhhh... Gotchya, I see now.

This popped up from a search for 240-Z lake skipping. Hmmm... Sorry for the OT..

Hmmm... Guess that means because I bought a '97 M3 for the purpose of removing a perfectly good running S52 to install a Chebby, that must be stupid too.

Opinions of the CarTech set up have been stated. If the original poster chooses to purchase one, (maybe to cannibalize it for a project other than what it was originally intended for), that is his choice, lets not continue beating him over the head about it. Any further posts should be informative, helpful, educational, or in answer to his question. Thank you, Paul

2 screws/bolts secure each to the manifold. Threads are 5mm x 28mm x .80mm They all accept a #2 Phillips, some also have a 8mm hex head to accept a wrench/socket as well as the #2 phillips. U-pull-it is good source for these screws/bolts. Z car, 810/Maxima, etc. Hope that helps, Paul

AWESOME! Beautiful work. Nice 4 door E46 M car..

LS2 EFI system is not CAN/BUS. It is typical GM PCM like the earlier LS1 stuff but with a more powerful ECU, same sensors other than cam sensor which is now on the timing chain cover vs rear of block and the knock sensors are a little different and relocated to the lower exterior of block vs in the valley.

Tony, You forgot the pic, mang...

JTR has been around since I think the late '80's, building and selling Z car engine conversion kits since at least the mid '90's, did my first JTR V8 Z back in '97. There is no reason to be leery of JTR. Customer service is is reliable, they stand behind what they sell. They are well established having been around for long time, they plan to continue, having invested in some very nice CNC equipment over the past couple years that is helping them to not only improve their current kits, but offer more kits and engine conversion bits and pieces for other vehicles. I keep in touch with JTR on a semi regular basis and the past few months they have been real busy, as such, delayed E-mail replies are to be expected. When time permits, JTR is good at replying to E-mails, phone calls, etc. I do know that shipping to Canada is expensive and Mike has mentioned is also a bit of a headache, so be prepared. If you have a friend/relative on the states side of the border that JTR can ship to and then you/them can hand carry the parts across, you might look into that.