BRAAP

Someone was really paying attention when I posted pics of the original BRAAP car… Ron’s new car is the original Datsun Orange, (picture makes it ”look” red), my car was red with orange metal flake. Also, Ron’s new car is a 260, mine was a ’75 280. Though the pics do look an awful lot alike ?!?!?! Mine... Rons...

I heard a rumor that Cary drives a 280-Z and she even volunteered it for one of the episodes?… . Can anyone confirm that?

Hang on fella’s. There are a lot of "maybes" and "I thinks" being posted which is only adding confusion to confusion. For clarity sakes lets only post absolute definites and if possible, show pics if able. I do have complete running and parts cars including an early ’70, ’73, ’74-1/2 ’75, ’76, ’77, ’78, ’82, ’85, I just don’t have the time right now to go out and strip the doors and take pics, sorry. … Lets start over as to what will and what wont fit a 260 in regards to door internals such as glass and window regulators. Pretty much the only items from a 280 ZX that can transplant in “bolt in” fashion to the early Z cars, i.e. ’70-’78 240-280Z, is the engine, transmission and differential. The body and all associated components of the body on the 280ZX is for all intensive purposes a completely different car than the earlier 240, 260 and 280Z, including the suspension. Now as for the early cars, the ’77 and ’78 280 Z have totally different doors internally. The regulators, door locks, and even the door panels are particular to the ’77 and ’78 cars and are not interchangeable amongst any other Z cars. Even the door itself wont interchange as the striker is completely different. As for “just” the glass alone, I’m not 100% sure the ’77 and ’78 glass will bolt into the ’70-’76 glass track. 2+2 and Coupe door parts wont interchange either. Hope that helps.

... "He's gettin a DELL dude"..

Of course the VH45DE conversions has ran through my head, but if a motor swap is going to happen in the new car, (picked it up yesterday, pics soon to follow), it would end up being the supercharged SBC V-8 that is currently destined for FUZZY… FWIW, I also acquired a Z-32 parts car that will be used for setting up motor mounts etc for Z-32 V-8 conversions using the traditional SBC… I wont be able to get to that till later this year as we are up to our eye balls in custom L-series cylinder heads right now.

Nigel, Great question. What you described is basically an “anti reversion device”. Your best bet for in-depth info on anti reversion steps or devices is to do some research. I have not done any testing on the L-series with anti reversion steps or anti reversion devices so I have nothing to back up my opinions/theories on this subject with L-series. Here is my “opinion/theory” on anti reversion devices on L-series heads. As far as it being beneficial or not? Good question. If the engine along with its induction and exhaust system are engineered and built to take full advantage of the Helmholtz principle, then introducing an anti reversion device would seem like a step backwards, like Formula one, or NASCAR engines, (I know, not exactly L-series.) For our lowly 2 valve L-series, that anti reversion device might help bolster or band aid some weak flow or pressure surges that “may” be present, but that is purely speculation on my part. Personally, I would not try to install/induce an anti reversion step into the air stream on an L-series, especially on the intake. The liners in the round exhaust port L-heads function as anti reversion devices, but whether “that” feature of the liners is of benefit or not to producing HP is still up for debate. What we do know about the round exhaust ports with the liners intact is that they flow nicely for mild to even moderately hot L-series engines. Sorry I couldn’t be of more help on that subject. Paul Ruschman

Ah, sort of like this Eggers & Vickers? I was originally going to massage this L-6 Mech FI ITB intake for EFI on my personal car, but since sold it to a member on this forum that is doing something similar, but adding boost as well…

Ah. Very nice indeeed. I like the wheels. I also just purchased a ’91 Z-32. Mines and N/A car and is replacing my recently totaled Infiniti Q-45, (Dodge Dakota Rear ended me in down town traffic earlier this month). I will be picking up my Z-32 tomorrow and will also be looking at ’90 TT that is for sale with only 40k miles on the clock…

I like it...

Well the sport scar club I autocross with in Eugene Oregon back in the early ‘90’s called my car BRAAP due to its exhaust note, (6 cylinder with glass packs, yeah I know Glass packs are cheesy but a 6 holer with glass packs just sounds AWESOME!!!), and the name stuck so I purchased the BRAAP “vanity” plate and it’s been BRAAP ever since.. BRAAP….BRAAAAAAAAAP………BRAAAAAAAaaaaaaa……….

MSnS-e is fun, powerful, and totally capable, (I ran it on my L-28 powered F-prepared 240-Z), but for a plug and play set up, WOLF is very much RB SAVVY and offers plug and play for the RB’s which simplifies the conversion considerably with a high quality EMS with room for future growth, i.e. turbos, Nitrous, Super charger, etc… Here is a little bit on the WOLF V500, Haltech, and AEM EMS… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117313 …

I too have been wanting to see pics of this project as I have a vested interested in the Z-32 with a traditional SBC conversion. For those interested, here is his pic album that he mentioned previously. http://album.hybridz.org/showgallery.php?cat=500&ppuser=20240 I get the impression that Geminitiwn is being straight up with us about his 1/8 mile times of 6.90. Heck, my “MILD” V-8 Z that weighed 2900 lbs with me and half bag of gas, WAY wrong gearing, and very cheesy 195 60 HR 14” Yokohama Y-388 all season tires, ran consistent 12.3 @ 113 MPH in the 1/4, 1/8 mile was 8.06 @ 92.58 MPH. This was a ’75 280 Z with WAY wrong gearing, set up for autocross duty, MILD Chev 350, iron 041 casting heads with 1.94”/1.50” valves, my pocket porting, standard Edelbrock performer intake manifold, (not the RPM version), used Holley 650 carb with NO tuning other than idle mixture, 216-228 @ .050” Flat Tappet cam on 112 LSA. Trans was a World Class T-5, diff was a welded 3.90 ratio R-200, launches were all in 2nd gear. My car was not a drag car yet produced respectable times for being “MILD”. Geminitwins car weighs only 100 lbs more, engine is WAY more serious and could be running at least mediocre tires, which in my feeble mind could easily produce a 6.90 1/8 mile ET…

I purchased an Eaton M-112 from a Jaguar for my SBC V-8 Z conversion http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115326 and it doesn’t have the integral bypass that came on some of the other M-112 applications, (Ford Lightning, Cobra Mustangs etc). I am planning to install a remote bypass from Magna-charger http://www.magnusonproducts.com/bypass.htm and my plan is to use it as a boost controller of sorts. The Super charger will be geared, (pulley combos), to run at its max capable RPM at my engines max capable RPM which “should” be able to produce MORE boost/HP than I ant from this project if I wasn’t running a bypass. The plan is to have by-pass controlled via a boost controller through my WOLF V500 EMS. In theory this will allow more low end BOOST and flatter boost curve at mild to moderate boost levels with little loss. That’s the theory any how…

Eric, In a little sub window within Photoshop 7.0 it has “History”, “Actions”, “Tool Presets” as tabs. Is that what you mean by “History” option? What does that little sub window with those options do for me?

YESS YESSS!!! A FAQ/Stickey for post processing using Photoshop for us novice photographers…. Photoshop 8.0 or better eh? DOH. I’ve only got Photoshop 7.0 and it is WAY beyond me. I use Auto Levels a lot, sometimes I’ll play with color balance in the “shadows”, “midtones” and “highlights”, but that is about as far as I’ve delved into it. Thanks again, Paul Ruschman

Rick, I’m sure there is a much easier and less expensive way to kill yourself… (a 1000 WHP Z car is one way to get the job done for sure… ) On a serious note, that is a friggin awesome induction set up and definitely has the potential to produce 4 digit power levels for sure… Nice work. Keep us posted… Paul

The E-88 “will” detonate on pump gas at 10:1 compression no matter if the piston is flat top or dished, (i.e. no squish and the L-series is VERY sensitive to detonation). Ideally for any engine, especially the L-series due to its detonation sensitivity, you want a quench style chamber and if a dish is needed in the piston to keep the compression ratio pump gas friendly, then a custom “D” dish “should” be used to retain squish, not the OE circular style dish…

AH MAH GAWD!!! That is so cool. Thanks for sahring...

Here is my EDIS mount set up. I relocated the GM one wire alternator to the driver side for a custom radiator clearance issue, then built an adjustable bracket for the VR sensor. No price to put on it as it was just lot of head scratching and some machine work. FWIW, It also has been my experience with the EDIS test bench that the VR to 36-1 wheel gap is quite forgiving. Brand new OE Damper with Escort 36-1 on the front.. Mock up complete… Profile shot… Finished set up…

The plug wire debate will go on forever. If you are running an aftermarket EFI system, especially Mega squirt or SDS, then Magnecor is really your only option if you desire “reliable” EFI operation without a compromise in performance as they offer THE best suppression out there and they are a HIGH performance plug wire, (Nology is also supposed to real good, but I have no experience with their wires, sorry). Taylor, Accel, MSD, NGK, etc are just “OK” wires and look pretty. If you are running OE EFI or carbs, those cheapo plug wires will function fine, but they do emit a lot of EM noise. Jacobs makes a high quality wire that is a true performance wire and it does offer some EMI suppression over the cheaper “pretty” wires such as MSD, Taylor, NGK, etc. but the Jacobs are still not as good as Magnecor for EMI suppression. Aftermarket EFI is VERY sensitive to EMI and suffers from resets due to inexpensive plug wires and non resistor spark bolts. I’ve personally seen it time and again and experienced this first hand on my own cars. These threads are VERY informative in regards to plugs wires and actual real world results. Read them all the way through. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=112407 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115390

AWESOME!!!! Has VeritechZ seen this yet?

Come on Veritech, even our Motorhome produced a foggy!!! (And that is real smoke on asphalt, not photo-shopped… Ron Tyler behind the shutter, yours truly at the helm) Veritech, I tell you what. If you bring your Z to northwest Oregon and leave it with us for a few months, I personally guarantee your Z will perform a foggy burnout for a photo shoot worthy of posting on Hybrid-Z after we wave our magic wand under the hood… (Sorry for thread Jacking. Pretty much any thread with the word “smoke” in the subject is fair game …)

That '77 280-Z is just plain black, original paint, shiny in some spots, not in others. Nothing special, other than the Mopar 440 Big Block under the hood. The Q-45 in those pics is also just plain Black, or should I say “was”!?!?!? (Ron Tyler gets credit for the photography of the burnouts…) HTH… Paul

The only smoke color that looks good on performance vehicles, (in my not so humble opinion), is white smoke with a slight blue tint. Depending on how low the sun is setting in the sky, it can take on a bronzeish hue … Oh.. You meant for painting your ZX, not just showing off "smoke" for the neighbors.. ….