BRAAP

Experienced in forum admin, excellent anti-spam skills, has a respect for others and authority. Welcome abroad Aaron!

TAG, Phlebs it!

Yasin, Your girls are smoken-hot! Nice work.

Holy Slow-Datsun Batman! It's that time again! Happy.. uh.. er... 40th, right?

Drop the tank!

Did someone say EATON?..

Ah.... yes, good point, the SB2 would be a nice progression to build up to, upon the SBC foundation. Definitely a road less traveled with serious N/A performance potential! Lots of used NASCAR SB2 take out parts available at prices comparable to new street-performance parts, (rotating, reciprocating parts, valve train, heads, etc), all would be totally fine in milder "hot-street" tuned configuration.

Cost... cost... cost... The attraction to traditional SBC is performance per $$$$.$$, especially when uber levels of power are not required for the initial phase of the project. The LS7 and SB2 both deliver the power and LOTS of it, but they don't fall within the typical Datsun budget when 200-300 street-able HP is all that is required or desired for the initial running project, (enough power to be fun and inexpensive to acquire). Starting out there allows LOTS of room for future performance growth within a shoe string budget, i.e. project can realistically be enjoyed, "driven" vs sitting on jack stands waiting for several more paychecks to come in. Another bonus to building in phases is starting with a drivable car with mild-modest power is the fulfillment of learning how to manage appreciate that power level, again enjoying it from behind the wheel vs staring at it on jack stands. As you get comfortable with each phase, start implementing the next phase of performance, growing the car over the years in steps prolongs the enjoyment of the project, stretching the fun factor of the Z over a longer period vs going for the max effort from the get go! Going for the max effort dream Z from the get go is cool, but after the honey moon is over, car is "done" and you are used to it, you are ready for the next step... what next? Heck, if we had that sort of budget we wouldn't be on this forum, we'd be on the Ferrari, Porsche, McLaren F1 forums...

DANG! Car looks WICKED fast! The raspy flapping type note sounds like exhaust leaks, a couple/few at the head/s or collector pipes, cracked headers/manifolds? Or possibly if dual mufflers, glass of steel packed style, one of them is more blown/worn out than the other? Regardless, the car is definitely running on all 8 and looks wicked quick!

That's mah boy..

I forgot to mention that the Infiniti VH45DE V-8 fits the car actually quite well! (mocked that engine in the Z-32 as well, and was amazed at well it fit the engine bay!) The only real fitment issue with the VH45 is the tall intake manifold. VH45DE can be bolted to the Z-32 5 speed with adapter and you now have a nice V-8 powered Z-32.

Careful about the advice you give Hoov… I thought the same thing when I started my Z-32 LSx conversion, and after much mocking up I learned that No, the LSx is not an easy swap in the Z-32! In fact, for a street car, it is one of the toughest to do if you want to keep any of the factory creature comforts and have the suspension function somewhat as intended. Fabrication required for an LSx is actually quite considerable, especially if it is to be a street car. If this is to be a gutted race car, then yes, fabrication would be easier, just cut a big hole in the firewall and cut out the trans tunnel back to the shifter hole, stuff the engine as far back as you can, weld in a new tunnel and firewall and call it a day! Just that easy, right? Another aspect of the Z-32 is its high maintenance and the engineers didn’t really design the Z-32 with maintenance in mind! The LSx cures mort of the maintenance headaches, but the problem is Nissan didn’t design the engine bay to readily receive the LSx, or any domestic V-8. Summation of the Z-32 love hate relationship; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123262 How not-so-well the LSx fits the Z-32! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=144469 The Z-32 was my ultimate dream car, when I finally got one, I was ecstatic! That was short lived,, then got another! The next one was a nice car, but again, once the honey-moon was over, OMG, the car is a headache looking for person to deny total and complete happiness to! It took me over a year of denial to finally see the light and let it go. After I finally gave up on the project and found a different Moniker to receive my LSx, I have not looked back with one bit of regret. I am far happier now than then, and its So much easier, definitely not as high maintenance, MUCH easier to work on if it does need maintenance, etc… In short, the Z-32 left a sour taste. The only way I’d take another one is for gutted race car, definitely NOT as a street car!

Thanks for helping. Being as the dizzy will only engage the quill shaft in one position, the rotor position for TDC #1 pretty much already verified that quill shaft alignment. Chance of his quill shaft being TDC #1 on valve overlap is about 50-50..

Oh yeah baby!

'78 is is it own beast, pin-outs and EFI harness is totally different, '77 wont work.

Why do you want want to change to a bigger injector with the stock N/A EFI? You can use any size you want, but trust me on this, you don't want to use any injector other than stock with the stock L-28 N/A EFI! Any size other than stock and you wont be abel to get the engine run correctly! The stock size injectors are more than adequate for any amount of mods that can be done to the engine with the stock EFI and still retain drivability, performance etc.

Scotty, Need more input. Link to the post you are trying to reply to? Are you trying to reply to a post in the Tool Shed or Members Projects forum?

In looking over your posts, I'm not seeing you in that role, sorry. Also, you did actually "read" the rules that you agreed to right? Your lack of grammar and the questions you have asked in other threads, (answers to which are clearly spelled out in the rules you agreed to), sure make it seem like you did not! Here are a couple SHIFT key threads for ya; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131518 http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=139501

'73 240z minus the engine might weigh 1900 lbs, or a very skillfull race car builder, but not a street Z. More like 2400 lbs.

Woo hooo.... Finally, 9 years a member of this forum and I had advice that actually worked! I'm marking this down in my calender!

Dime quarterly?

Epic thread! Avernier? Is your key board broken? If not, please use your shift key!

REceived my LS1 28 lb injectors so started to final assy the LS1 intake. did and initial full mock up, injectors, fuel rail, etc, and couple things things immediately stood out. These cheap fuel rails ain’t perfect. Turns out I had to so some machining to get them to fit properly. 1) Slot the mount holes 1/8” to allow the injectors to sit at the correct angle, the injectors were leaned over sideways, O-rings were slightly cocked in the bore of the manifold and fuel rail. Most likely would've sealed just fine, but is wasn’t right and was quite noticeable! 2) Had to slot the clearance notch for the mounting brackets due to slotting the mounting the holes. 3) Had to notch the bottom of the fuel rail for the injector connector. My LS1 injectors use the old BOSCH style connector which interferes on the bottom corner of the fuel rail. They actually will clear once installed, but if you ever had to remove the injector-connector for any reason, you'd have to remove the fuel rail first! The smaller style connectors like on the truck injectors is not an issue, those clear fine. 4) Couple of the injector bores had some significant scratches, (tooling drag during manufacturing?) that I felt would’ve leaked! Spent an hour and a half just honing/buffing the injector bores to the point that I feel satisfied. Only had to remove approx .003”-004" material, O-rings are still quite snug, will seal fine now. My guess is the even the other fuel rails will have similar connector clearance issues, though I would hope for the added cost of those other fuel rails that the mounting holes are properly located!