BRAAP

I’m feeling rather bored tonight and my mind is racing, high performance sports cars is all I can think about. With the chat box gone, I thought why not talk live to other HBZ members? If any of you wish to chat Hi-Po Datsuns or just sports cars in general, either in-depth technical stuff or bench racing about our most memorable stop light grand prix kills, give ole BRAAP a call… 1 (310) 495-5412 Aux. A friend is interested in your Rotary set up for his 260-Z. Give me a call, I'll hook you up...

Yes.

Comments eh?... I have more of a question and a comment! What are you waiting for? Build it!

The white one sounded good at full song, the odd note was smooth, not so coarse.

Spot on ole-chap.

I am also a fan of the Suby boxer, cool power plant. My Suby is an '85 Suby 4wd wagon, 5 speed with the hi-lo range tranny, affectionally named Urnee, (after the BMW V-8 conversion is done, Urnee is scheduled to receive EJ22 conversion and a T-case lift, T-case is on the way.) . But that sound of a dead cylinder, I just cant used to, no matter how much I drive Urnee or listen to other Subies with loud exhaust systems, it just sounds too much like a 6 cylinder with a dead hole. Some say it is an acquired taste. As an engine guy to the bone, the sound a smooth melodic exhaust note is blissful music, V-12's and single plane V-8 being high fidelity, Subies?... the Suby exhaust note is not one that I have been able to warm up to. When I do Urnees EJ conversion, I will be looking into rerouting the exhaust primary pipes merging them so the firing pulses meet up with even spaces for a smooth "aurally balanced" 4 cylinder exhaust note. My Z32 would sound EXACTLY like a Suby STi whenever it dropped a cylinder from a dead injector, (that car ate several injectors over the year I owned it). I'm not exaggerating, others that heard it running with the dead hole would come over to tell me how it sounded just like a Suby with an aftermarket exhaust! Not sure if those comments were a complement or sarcastic about Subies not so smooth sound?...

I apologize if my post above is misleading. I did not take the pictures nor am I affiliated with the team, etc. Creditation for the pictures is just above the first picture. I merely have a Wolf V-500 system that I ran in my Z32 and now using my LSx powered BMW M3 and was sharing some info I stumbled across.

Yeup. He fixed that dead cylinder...

Thread moved. Not quite yet. This could become an informative HID thread, just giving it the chance to blossom...

Nice light weight alternative to the CTS-V! Build thread; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/conversions-hybrids/1141424-civettes-new-swap-lsx-wrx.html On the dyno Video;

I agree, the technology and performance are extraordinary, I have no issue with that. My point was that it "looks" really goofy with the tall windows, channeled body, (if it isn't channeled, it sure looks like it is), and then to campaign a car at that level of competition with another makers engine under the hood? If it had a domestic V-8 engine, that sorta makes sense as it has been done since the dawn of drag racing V-8’s, but to use another brand of Euro engine? That’s like running a NASCAR MonteCarlo with a Ford engine? Why? Drag racing is about power and acceleration! The engine is the focal point. The body is as much of the badge or business card, for the power plant as anything else! If someone is dead set on drag racing a BMW engine at that level of competition, in my mind anyhow, it just makes since to surround it in BMW clothing! I guess my age is starting show..

Great analogy, thank you. That same concept “more aspiration potential” carries over the Datsun L-series. L20A 6 cylinder vs the L20B 4 cylinder. Very similar engines in design and architecture, both are 2.0L displacement, but the L20A brings to the table 2 more intake ports and valves and 2 more exhaust ports and valves to breathe through, (the ports and valves are smaller for the 6 cyl but the overall port area and open valve curtain area for the 6 cyl is still greater than the sum of the 4 cylinders ports/valve curtain area), which does seem to offset the additional friction of 4 more valves and corresponding components, 2 more pistons with rings, bearings, etc. In those examples, the L20A’s greater aspiration is allowing for greater overall BMEP at the end of the complete 720 degree cycle vs the L20b. The L20b is short of breathe! When comparing those two engine up to 3000 RPM, the advantage of the L20a is probably not as pronounced as it is say around 6000 RPM or 7000 RPM. Point being, usable rev range is contributing factor. I can see how this principle applies to todays more modern multi valve, center spark bolt, more efficient burn chambers, etc, due to the even greater RPMs these modern engines spin. Regardless, elevated RPM’s for cylinders with larger displacement are going to require more time for efficient filling or they are going to suffer similar out of breathe “aspiration” issues as the L-20b suffers vs the L20a. So by adding a couple more cylinders that are smaller, now each can “aspirate” themselves more efficiently in the RPM range they running.

1) Distributor. With Megasquirt, you have the option of retaining the dizzy or doing away with it and going distributor-less ignition such as the EDSI-6 system or individual coils such as the GM LSx coils, etc. Retaining the dizzy is the simplest route, EDIS-6 adds a little more complexity to the project incorporating a crank trigger wheel, individual coils adds bit more to MS set up as well as the crank trigger. This thread covers the EDIS-6 installation; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103781 This thread covers GM LSx coils; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=120533 2) N/A complexity vs Boosted. As far as the "cars" wiring goes, shouldn’t be much different Carb, N/A EFI and Boosted EFI. What would change that is how much integration of the EFI wiring you want to combine with the cars electrical system. These older cars, the EFI can be essentially stand alone, no need to integrate with any of the cars other electrical systems. I prefer to keep the Engine management as separate from the cars systems as possible! As for EFI wiring/configuration, N/A vs Turbo, lots of variables that will influence that. Yes Turbo is generally more complex regarding the Engine management system and depending on how many of the available bells and whistles you want to utilize that Mega Squirt has to offer for boosted applications, that will dictate how much more complex the installation and configuration will be. Hope that helps, Paul

If anything, your cranking compression would be higher with hydraulic slack adjusters. When they collapse, the valves will close earlier, thereby trapping more air in the cylinder during cranking! (Intake valve closes after the pistons has started its travel UP on the compression stroke so the first portion of the compression stroke isn't compressing. When the intake valve closes earlier form collapsed lifter, that cylinder will trap more air and register a higher cranking compression). Regardless, only 30 PSI on all cylinders means something is VERY wrong! Cam timing is VERY off, (was the head removed and reinstalled?) Holes in pistons, broken rings, valves bent or hanging open for one reason or another, or a very blown head gasket to allow all 6 cylinders to only crank up to 30 PSI. If all 6 cylinders are exactly the same, I am more inclined to believe improper cam timing, bent valves from starting the engine with improper cam timing, improper valve train set up if the head was just rebuilt which would not allow the valves fully close.

Here is link on "How-To" post pictures on the forum; http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=123389

John, 95% opening of a 60mm TB on an L-6 vs 100% probably isn't going to yield any significant power gain, N/A or boosted. I'd be surprised if you saw even a 10 HP gain on a 400 crank HP boosted L6 with a 60 mm Throttle body going from 95% throttle opening, to 100% throttle opening. (85 degrees from horizontal butterfly postion to full 90 degrees). If there is measurable gain, you'll most likely see it in your MPH, ET is too easily influenced on how how the car is launched, available traction, etc.

Rod, Nay on the washers! The torque spec ARP gives you for the bolt puts the bolt in its "spring" state, i.e. it wont come loose! Just like rod bolts, main bolts, etc, no lock washer are used. Follow the ARP instructions verbatim including any mention of thread lockers, lubes, etc.

Phil?.... :lmao:

:lmao: Ouch..

Dream Hybrids eh? A Hybrid car that when you see it driving down the street, you get the urge to shed your clothes and rub against it… #1 Dream Hybrid for me is the street legal Dauer 962! 0-60 MPH in 2.6 seconds! Porsche 962 race car “hybrided” into a street legal road car! I think 12 examples of the road car were built, not sure if any are here in the states.. (Is hybrided even a word? If not, it is now!) #2 is Georg Plasa’s BMW E-36, powered by a Formula-1 Judd V-8! #3 is my current Hybrid project! BMW E36, M-3 sedan receiving an LSx V-8 and 6 speed trans! http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=150253

Here ye go, E36 with a Small Block Ford. He is even selling the SBF E36 conversion kit! I bought the CD, well worth the price for any doing a V-8 E36 conversion. http://e36v8.com/index.html

Spot on! '76 was the first year of the volt gauge, and if you wire one in, removing the shunt is very easy. Did that exact thing in my '75, replaced all the gauges with '78 including the volt meter with charge light. When removing the shunt, be sure to remove all the wiring dedicated to it and depending on where you make that cut, be sure exposed wires are well protected from possible inadvertent grounding!