BRAAP

This was too easy...

First off, NO 280-Z or 280ZX EVER came with a MAF! They did however come with an AFM, The MAF you are referring to is called the Air Flow Meter, or AFM for short. The AFM is a completely different animal than a MAF. The terms really aren’t interchangeable and when looking for parts, you could end up with the wrong part! So, whoever told you that is a MAF, next time you see them, tell them they are full of BS and don't trust that persons automotive/mechanical advice, ever again!!! As for the resistor trick or how to tune the factory Z car EFI, per the #2 in the rules you agreed to today, just a mere 2 hours ago, please exercise the search function... Here is link to start out with... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=132075 Good luck, Paul

The plate will have a notch. The plate may have been installed upside down or flipped over, or both which could explain why it is not visible. As for the cam gear not having the "V" notches that are supposed to line up with the plate notch?!?!? No idea. It should have those notches.

If I find that catalog, you can have it...

The bright link location is only helpful if you know where BOTH of the bright links are. Just seeing a bright-link lined up on a cam gear dot doesn't mean the other bright link is lined up in its correct spot on the crank gear. If you are starting over regarding setting the cam timing, you'll need to pull the front cover, rotate the engine around till the bright links links are lined up on their corresponding crank and cam dots, then verify that the #1 piston is at TDC, then verify the cam gear dot the shiny link is aligned with, either "1", "2", or "3", is clocked on the camshaft dowel to cam gears corresponding hole, i.e. shiny link and cam dowel should be the same, i.e. "1" and "1" or "2" and "2" , or "3" and "3". If you want to really get nitty gritty with cam timing, follow this link... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=111523 Hope that helps, Paul

John, Several grinds were available in the "Fireball" series. Do you by chance have the part number or any other identifying information? If so , I'll try to dig up my old 1994-5 CRANE catalog, if I can still find it..

They don't call him John COFFEY for nothing... Around here, we just all him You-Ban... Saw "batteries not included" at least one other time.. Happy fun ball is classic! My 15 year old daughter constantly reminds us, "Do not taunt happy fun ball"...

Oh yeah, Must do Foggy... Must do Foggy.... Must do Foggy...

Here is a HBZ member with an L28E in his BMW E30 car. Runs and drives… http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=117468 I will be swapping an LSx I my ’97 BMW M3 in the next few months, so my S52-US and its 5 speed, (3.2L twin cam inline 6 with VANOS variable cam timing), with DME, (BMW speak for EFI system), will be for sale! Not sure how it fits in the E30 chassis, but would be fun. Would also be fun in an S-30 car, then add boost!

I found a complete set of 10 cam tower bolts, (5 long- 5 short), boxed and ready to go. If you PM me your shipping address in the next few minutes, I'll drop them off at the post office on my way into town this morning. These bolts do have some very light surface rust, but are functionally perfect. Just take wire brush to them and use oil during assembly.

I will go out and check if I have some in a little bit.

I was quite fortunate a couple years back when a cool storm rolled through, strike after strike one after another. Not common for our area. I just set the tripod up in my pasture, and from inside my barn that night, wireless shutter release with the NikonD70s, kit lens, I think the shutter was 30 seconds or 1 minute and got a few with multiple strikes in the same shot…. Again, I was fortunate, the storm was key. Here are some shots from that one storm… Same shot, cropped…

Yes, that "rough cast slot" is normal and its purpose is for oil drain back into the pan from the rear main bearing so it doesn't pool up behind the rear main cap!

If you are referring to the bolts that go down through the cam towers... torqued to 25 ft lbs?!?!?!... those 8mm bolts, (12mm wrench size) only get torqued to 12-13 ft lbs!... Good news is that those threads are repairable. Bad news is that all the bolts you torqued past 20 ft lbs are no longer any good, stretched, and ALL the the threaded holes in head probablly need to be repaired. I might have an extra set of cam tower bolts, if I do you can have, just cover shipping.

Happy belated 21st Birthday SKIB!.... Hope it was a good one, and safe.

And don't forget to use a service manual such as the Haynes manual... If you don't have one, please get one. This forum really is not an alternative to a service manual...

There are 6 more nuts under the intake runners, (one per runner), that clamp across both the intake and exhaust manifolds. You need to loosen those approx. 2-3 full revolutions, then the intake will come free... Remove the heat shield if you have one and they will be MUCH easier to access. Here are those 6 nuts...

My hero... And for those boneheads that feel they are "too good" to read the rules... Say hah-lo, too-mah LITTAL frendssss..

Uh Phil?!?... Put the Mouse down, step away from the computer and go out to the garage and do something to your Z!...

You can use ANY L6 intake on the following US spec heads; N42, N47, P79, P90

You guys remember HBZ member mas280 don’t you? Well Mike, aka mas280, is building a very nice LSx E-36... http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1214157

Yes - I signed up for another forum, and they had it set up such that before they would activate your account, you had to read the rules and PM the admin. However, at the bottom, it had a certain PM subject title you had to use and a word that HAD to be somewhere in the content. If you messed it up, you didn't get to play, and obviously, they would immediately know if you didn't read the rules. If that system were automated, I think it would be a good system to implement. Especially in the classifieds. It seems that NO ONE reads the rules in there.

Ron's just a giant pahnsy!.....