BRAAP

Jon, I have faith in that, you know what you are talking about. Your knowledge and experience with L-6’s is well documented. As such, I cannot argue against your testimony. All I can say is that my experience in this field does not support the experience you described. That is not to say it didn’t or couldn’t have happened, it just goes against conventional wisdom and I would not put faith or condone that spring/cam combination to anyone.

Sorry Jon, I am not buying that the stock springs, even new ones, will hold 7500 RPM with a .490" lift cam! Not even for 1 lap without floating the valves, Sorry. The springs must have been something other than OE L6, such as the roadster outer springs, etc. Robert, Best of luck with your spring choices...

What he said, +1

Coil bind is not the ONLY aspect that is to be looked at when evaluating springs that may be suitable for a particular cam! I have already written tons of info on this subject posted elsewhere on this forum so I wont be rehashing that again here. Just because they bind at .460" is not a reason to consider using them. Those sorts of comments are how some of the myths get started, something we don't want to perpetuate. Stock springs will NOT control the valve at the RPMS a .460" cam will allow the engine to rev to, PERIOD! If the stock springs are just adequate in controlling the valve, i.e. no valve float, for the .413” lift stock cam up to 6500 RPM, then rest assured a more aggressive cam will not be able to rev as high due to valve float setting in much sooner, which is backwards with a more aggressive cam as it will want to rev higher! You might get away with stock springs on a more aggressive cam, but only for a very short period, say 1000-10,000 miles on street car, then the springs will be worn out and in need of replacement. In short, just nut up and buy the correct springs! The valve train is NOT the area to be cutting corners, unless you like just throwing money away for no apparent reason!

For essentially any Stock cam, the stock springs are fine. If you plan to use an aftermarket cam with ANY more lift/duration than stock, the stock springs will are NOT adequate! Hope that helps.

I confess. Back in the late ‘80’s and through the ‘90’s, being a die hard S-30 guy, viewing the S-30 as a true sports car, we used to refer to the S-130 as “Secretaries cars”, the 2+2 variant as the “station wagon”… Our argument was that it was heavier, rear suspension was less performance oriented, the interior was more common of cars in that era such as Toyota, Mazda, etc. It didn’t have that huge wow factor and originality the S-30 had when it was released. How messed up is that attitude?!?!? Knowing what I know now about the S-130, its racing heritage, its impact on the automotive world in general, looking back on our attitudes then? How narrowed minded we were, deserving of a swift kick in the batteries! Sure the S-130 is not an S-30 and by rights it shouldn’t be! It is its own, it is “the” next generation of Z car, and you know what? It filled those shoes very well! Successful in auto racing, (Paul Newman raced one!), the S-130 received many improvements the S-30 guys wish they had and still wish for such as rear discs, vented front brakes, better front suspension geometry, CV joint half shafts in some cars, less gas fumes, power windows, power steering, a TURBO! the list goes on and on…. Now, some 20+ years later, the S-130 is just as much of a Z car icon as the S-30. Worthy of just as much praise. If I were a member here with my ‘80s attitude, I would have to ban myself! (I think I did that last year...) Please forgive me for my past transgressions. The S-130 is a true sports car, a Z car!

...Should I just keep resetting the "rules not read" button for HBZ member SKIB?...

Check your PM..

Hope this helps... In case you don’t already have these sources… Classifieds for the major LSx designated forums; http://www.ls1tech.com/forums/parts-classifieds-134/ http://www.ls2.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=17 http://www.ls1gto.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=19 http://www.ls1truck.com/forums/sale-parts-vehicles/ Seems to be a decent eBay source… http://stores.shop.ebay.com/Fparts Planting a seed, maybe will take it and run with it… The C-5 and C-6 corvette power train is front engine with a transaxle set up. In crawling under the Z-32 mock up mule, I observed that the Vette transaxle and rear suspension assy just might fit in place of the Z32 rear suspension. Looks to be lots of room under there. I see utilizing the Vette transaxle in the Z-32 as a 2 fold upgrade to the Z-32. 1) I am NOT a fan of the Nissan multilink rear suspension. It is fine for those that drive their cars up to 7-8 tenths, but when driven at the limit, it is very quirky and unpredictable, unless made so stiff it is isn’t “suspending” any more, then you’ve just lost any ride quality for a street car. The Vette rear suspension has proven its self very capable high-performance and race track design that also exhibits some decent street civility. 2) Moving the transmission rear ward helps reduce the Z-32 nose weight. The Z-32 weight distribution is biased heavily on the front wheels. Though most likely wont bring the Frt-Rr weight distribution to 50-50, it will help and is probably the largest most realistic way to balance the cars weight distribution… http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1999-Corvette-C5-Rolling-Drivetrain-Chassis-LS1-Engine_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trkparmsZQ7c301Q3a1Q7c293Q3a1Q7c294Q3a30QQ_trksidZp4634Q2ec0Q2em14Q2el1262QQhashZitem5881bb4868QQitemZ380133656680QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories#ht_3504wt_1446

Alright Shaggster.... you been talking to Ron lately?...

If there was to be poster child for HybridZ, this is definitely one of the top contenders; (though there never could be just one.. ) Do due reality, the information learned from the wind tunnel tests done thus far on the S-30 chassis and lessons learned from the Boneville racing Z cars that "have" indeed broken the 200 MPH barrier and what it took to do so, talk of taking a street driven Z to 200 MPH is just bench racing and will most likely never be done, let alone attempted. In short, I think we all can safely assume that any talk of 200 MPH in any street driven Z is just that, wild youthful fantasy... nothing to get worked up or technical over, except if it were to be actually attempted...

OH YEAH!!! Very nice! Thank you for the follow up..

Nuclear Nipples.. This is the mental image that pops into my head whenever I see one of those. (No offense to those that have the custom 7" HID, I'm sure the lighting quality phenomenal...) Pic courtesy of Terri Steele Those lights look like a very nice upgrade.

Love the red Clive..

Datsun F10, for the WIN!

Taken at the Canby Datsun show... Grainy...

Recently purchased a '97 BMW M3 Sedan as a daily driver to accept an LSx. Car is Cosmos Black, 5 speed, 191,000 miles on the clock. I was originally going to install the LSx in my ’93 300-ZX, but when it became painfully obvious that to do so would require cutting up the Z-32, (something I was not willing to do), I made the decision to jump ship for the BMW E36, keeping with a RWD sports car and the ability to swap in my LSx. Currently the BMW M3 runs and drives excellent, has no power-train issues, easily runs every bit of its rated mid to high 14 second 1/4 mile time. Previous owner installed Brembo Big Brake kit and Bilstein dampers. The project is moving forward, sold the M3 power train to a local HBZ member that will be installing it in an S-30 chassis. (He drove the M3 a few times and feels that the BMW M3 power train would be SAH-WEET in a Z car…) My approach to the LSx powered E36 is one of simple functionality while retaining the quality BMW ride and driving experience, i.e. no harsh vibrations, loud exhaust etc. A no nonsense LSx conversion. Nothing radical, not blingy, just a simple, “affordable” LSx powered E-36 daily driver that gets comparable MPG as the original power-plant, when not mashing the loud pedal. I am sitting on a 2001 5.3 out of my wifes '01 Suburban, GM RPO LM7. At 160,xxx this 5.3 it ate the cam. Bought her a used 5.3 engine and swapped it in her Burb, she his tickled pink. So am I as I now have a "starter motor" for my E36. Removed the heads and removed the bungled camshaft and lifters, (detailed write up regarding the camshaft over on ls1tech.com). Purchased a 2001 Vette LS1 camshaft, new roller lifters, several other parts and goodies including oil pans, exhaust manifolds for mock ups, etc. Picked up a WS6 T-56 and LS6 clutch/flywheel package that is currently sitting under the bench right now awaiting installation! Long term plan is to stuff a pert-neer stock 6.0 under the hood, I do have some help with this particular project, updates with details and pics will be sparse during the beginning, though when the “helper” is satisfied and deems all systems are go, there will be plenty of details, pics, etc. From my conversations with my helper, Once we start posting the specifics with details, etc, anyone else interested in doing this conversion with this approach will be very interested in… Here are some shots of the car. ******************** ____________________ ******************** More info on the car itself. Installed an Alpine head unit and some speakers as soon as I picked up the car, nothing special, just need tunes that sounded little better than OE. Replaced the front corner lights with smoked and had HID Euro Ellipsoids on the way, what a mess that was, will revisit headlights after the V-8 is up and running.... Today made a couple other interior changes as well. Mostly getting tired of my iPhone charge cord always being tangled up around the shifter. I keep my iPhone in the cubby behind the shifter next to the parking brake, sometimes under the parking brake handle itself. I don’t like it in the sunglasses cubby ahead of the shifter as it is bit small and the cord was still obnoxious and in the way there as well. Being that is the only use I have for the 12v power port, (Valentine 1 is to be hardwired just as I had it in my 280-Z, Q-45 and 300-ZX) the most logical location to me is just under the arm rest next to the cubby where I keep the iPhone. After disassembling the arm rest and center console, I committed myself modifying the arm rest structure to get the power port in that location, (owning a specialty 240-260-280-Z car shop helps). In the end, I am VERY pleased with out come. Now with the power port relocated, that left this awkward hole just ahead of the shifter. A few days ago I mentioned to my good friend that I was thinking about installing my S-2000 “Engine Start” button in that location that I had in my 240-Z race car! He just laughed and walked away… I’m convinced we all have some “ricer” in us, mine turned up as this start button, (i.e. the current starting system functions fine, but still have the desire to change it to something different, even though “different” does not enhance the functionality, only the visual presentation.. ) So I installed it as well. I connected the illumination portion to the old cig light lighting wires. Just need to connect the button to the starter wire and it’ll be functional. Tried to get some pics of the illumination, pics didn’t come out so good, but you’ll get the idea. The OBC lighting is the normal dark orange, but for some reason shows up pink in the pics?!?! First pic is the original power port with the charge cord tangled around shifter… This picture is of the new power port location; The Honda S-2000 start button, (looks OE); Illumintaed; Overall interior shot, iPhone is charging under the arm rest, out of sight, no obnoxious cords in the way. *************************** ___________________________ *************************** Auto darkening mirror and Valentine 1 hardwire! Added some more “de-luxing” to the '97 M car. Spent the past 4 nights hit and miss, head scratching to see if it would feasible to get the auto darkening rear view mirror from my Infiniti Q-45 into the M3. Also wanting to permanently mount and hardwire the Valentine 1, I pursued both as one project. End result, I’m quite pleased! The ’96 Q-45 used to be my daily driver for several years. Back in Jan ’07, sitting in traffic in Down Town Portland, the driver of a Dodge Dakota, looking down/phone/??? plowed into the back of me, didn’t hit the brakes, totaling the Q ship. Thank goodness I had my head rest raised and my head planted firmly against the head rest when he hit. Neither of us were injured. Any how, bought the Q-ship back from insurance for a song and a dance with intentions of cannibalizing its various features for future projects, such as this. Also have the Factory Infiniti service manual for the car making it quite easy for projects such as this, (wiring diagrams are awesome in the factory service manual.) The Infiniti mirror has all its auto tinting electronics built into the mirror itself, requiring just an “ignition-on” power source and a ground! Same for the V-1. After getting the Q mirror base modified to fit the BMW, (cut off the top 3” of the mounting base), I mocked it up with the V-1 beside it, to be sure it would clear the Mirror, windshield, mirror mount, AND the drivers sun visor when swung down, I marked out the location of the BMW circular spring mount. Armed with a Bridgeport milling machine and a 3mm x .5mm tap, tapped the 3 holes into the Q mirror base to accept the BMW mount. Now the new mirror attaches to the BMW windshield mirror mount, just as OE with the sprung “break-away” feature. Formed up the V-1 mount using 22 gage sheet metal to accept the visor mount for the V-1, (this is how I mounted the V-1 in my Datsun 280-Z, Infiniti Q-45, Nissan 300-ZX and now the M3…) After verifying it was broke up on the correct angles, etc, I flattened the pattern out and traced that out onto 18 gage sheet metal for the actual mount bracket. The finished bracket isn’t perfect, but looks great where visible once installed. After verifying that it fit as desired, painted it in wrinkle black paint last night, today spent he day reassembling the mirror, bracket, and wiring. V-1 works perfectly as does the auto darkening rear view mirror, or as Nissan calls it in the service manual, “Auto anti-dazzling mirror”. Here are a few pics of the install.

I think some of you guys missed it... Red leader...

+1... As Dan mentioned, you should be at minimum rebuilding the engine or replacing it.

Looking at your avatar... For a guy, you sure are cute! Probably the most feminine avatar I've seen for a guy on a car forum..

Looking good! Thanks for the updates...

Can it be done? Dunno, haven't seen it done yet but I'm sure it can be... So who's first? (Shameless plug...) Click ME for BMW M3 powertrain...