BRAAP

Welcome to HybridZ. Doing a VG30DETT will probably be the easist with the most bang for the buck. The VH45DE from the Q45 fits real nice, though the intake doesnt clear the hood, i.e. Hood scoop or custom intake. Rotary should fit nice as well. Pretty much any other swap is going to require hacking of the car structure. FWIW, A "tuner car" is generally a car that was prepped/modded by a "tuner shop", such as a "Callaway Corvette", "Roush Mustang","Ruf Porsche", or "Norwood Ferrari" are examples of a tuner car. A stock import that a private owner modifies himself, not a shop, is not really a "tuner car", even when finished.

Probably Ron?...

It is VERY sensitive... One click makes a noticeable difference.

Clive, Glad you enjoyed the read and I probably should update this portion to also include some Machine Shops as well as the parts stores... Funny part is the machine shop should already know this, second only to the foundry/casting industry... (Probably explains some of our other discussions?... )

Interesting... The Pitcher of those 12+ times speaks up as a victim?!?!? TAG! DRAX is it! .jk.

Looks like an Angry.... .. and goes like a bat out of.....

All pics courtesy of the internet..

GORGEOUS car! Great pictures! Track looks like a BLAST with the elevation changes, etc.

My not so humble opinion; With handling AND power being important, the E-36 with an LSx will deliver on all levels and there are thousands of clean E36 examples out there for between $4000-$10,000 including M3's under $10,000. Cheapest route would be to find a high mile 325i, do the M suspension conversion, (E36 M3 handling is knock your socks off impressive...) or just get an E36 M3, install the LSx and it'll be lighter and much better handling than the GTO. German refinement with LSx power! Here is guy that did the M suspension conversion to his 325i using BRAND NEW, OE BMW suspension components, only cost him $1787 including the alignment! http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=3476 Don't forget to check out this LSx powered E-36 on the track! YEE HAAA....

Exactly... Thank you. Now that would be an interesting tat job. EVERY auto manufacturer logo tattoed on your body. Not just the current manufacturers, but include past ones as well, those that started and didn't make it, and add new ones as they emerge, Kia, etc. Each tat would have it's own tale of triumph and fall, struggles and growths. Loving all makes, you should do that. That would get you reviewed in the Tat and auto magazines, maybe even a personal guided tour of Lenos car garage?....

That's exactly the point! That company logo, regardless of your relationship with the corporation or its products, will be a part of your life for the rest of your days... As an aside, could you please make an effort to use the shift key on your keyboard? I think there is a stickie thread dedicated to the Nissan ad campaign, "SHIFT", around here somewhere...

VERY nice work and thank you for sharing your conversion step by step. I just installed aftermarket HID's in my E36 M3 with Euro Ellipsoids lenses earlier this week and from the pictures, I think I'd prefer your E-46 HID’s light beam pattern. Yours appears to have broader even light beam spread, less rainbow at the edges, etc... Hmmm… Gonna have to start digging around to see if I can somehow use the E-46 HID now…

Dave, Were you planning to rebuild or just looking for that perfect excuse to rebuild? If so, this makes for a great excuse to dig right in! If not, I'm sure the oil leak can be dealt with with the engine still in the car, no need to tear it down other than remove the trans, clutch and flywheel. Tranny comes out quick and easy, depending on exhaust system of course..

The plug for the oil galley that could be the culprit is actually called the “Galley Plug”, not a freeze plug. Typically, the core plugs that contain the engines coolant are mistakenly referred to as “Freeze Plugs”! By mistakenly, I mean that there is no such thing as "freeze plug", smart blondes, or the Easter Bunny! Those plugs are actually CORE plugs, also referred to as Soft plugs, Expansion plugs or Welch plugs. This thread will help shed light on this and depending on ones sense of humor, can be rather entertaining as well. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=121062

Dave, Rear main seal or valve cover are the main culprits here. Double check at the back of the head to make sure the valve cover gasket isn't leaking down the back of the block. As mentioned already, the rear main cap and its rubber strips, though the only time I have ever seen those leak is due installation issue and that will will leak from day one. Haven't seen those fail after the fact. Also, the oil galley has plug in the back of the block behind the flywheel. I doubt it is that either, but there is always a first time. Oh, and don't forget to check the oil pan gasket, not just at the rear of the block but around the entire perimeter as the oil can and will makes it way to the lowest part of the pan rail which just so happens to be the back passenger side of the pan. Oh, and don't rule out gear oil. Could also be the front trans seal leaking, maybe over filled? Hope that helps. Take care, Paul

Either it's just too much to actually "read" the information or the pictures are just so pretty the text gets lost in the back ground... Lets not forget peoples, this is an informational forum, meaning it revolves around information, generally in the form of text, supplemented with pictures...!

In short, the T-stat on the left will NOT fit the stock housing. I considered using one of those thermostats years back in the L-6, but when I tried to install it in my thermostat housing, it became painfully clear it would not fit! The body of the Thermostat is too large at the bottom. I then rifled through all my thermostat housings of various L-6's from early L-24 through late L28ET looking for one that it fit. I recall finding at least one that did it allow it to fit, but only fit in the closed position. It would not be allowed to open up as the engine warmed up... I think I just read above that JeffP was modifying a housing to accept this style of high flow T-stat.

I keep a tub on my bench for head work. Used some on EvilC's head just last week! CYLINDER head work guys, cylinder heads!!!! I use it to seal the glass plate to the deck surface of the "cylinder" head for CC'ing the combustion chambers...sheeesh...

Cool mirror..

Check your PM inbox...

VERY entertaining.

Can you be more specific regarding "which car", i.e. year and model?

Got a little adventurous today. Mostly tired of my iPhone charge cord always being tangled up around the shifter. The Cig lighter/power port is just ahead of the shifter, I keep my iPhone in the cubby behind the shifter next to the parking brake. (The sunglasses cubby isn’t big enough and if it were, the cord will still be bunched up wadding itself around the shifter). Being that is the only use I have the 12v power port, (Valentine 1 is to be hardwired just as I had it in my S-30, Q-45 and Z-32) the most logical location to me is just under the arm rest next to the cubby I keep the iPhone. After disassembling the arm rest and center console, I commited myself to some extensive modification of the arm rest structure to get the power in that location. In the end, I am VERY pleased with out come. Now with the power port relocated, that left this awkward hole just ahead of the shifter. A few days ago I mentioned to Ron that I was thinking about installing my S-2000 “Engine Start” button in that location! He laughed out loud and walked away… I'm convinced that we all have some “ricer” in us, mine turned up as this start button, (i.e. the current starting system functions fine, but still have the desire to change it to something different, even though it does not enhance the functionality, only the visual presentation.. ) So I installed it as well. I connected the illumination, Just need to connect the button to the starter wire and it’ll be functional. Tried to get some pics of the illumination, pics didn’t come out so good, but you’ll get the idea. For some reason, the OBC display shows up as pink in the pics. It is actually the dark orange just like the rest of the instruments. First pic is the original power port with the charge cord tangled around shifter… Magenta NO circle is the itty bitty sunglasses cubby! This picture is of the new power port location; The Honda S-2000 start button, (looks OE); Illumintaed; Overall interior shot, iPhone is charging under the arm rest, out of sight, no obnoxious cords in the way.

Becoming more popular? Be seeing more of it? Yeah, probably just like big wings on the back of front wheel drive cars, big exhaust tips on stock 50 HP four cylinders! All in the name of wanting the "appearance", (RICER) of being performance oriented but with a twist, clocked camber plates, to give even more illusion as to being up on the newest super-whiz-bang trick! Result = FAIL!

My Lego are only used for building/mocking up V-8 engines, (dual plane crank in this instance) and traditional double A-arm systems that would be functional first and foremost, non of that ricers montra, bling-bling look-how cool my suspension "appears" crap!