BRAAP

Ah C'mon. You don't want the scratched up shift lever?... Come to think of it, all of my Datsun parts are vintage.

HybridZ quote of the week... Good one Grump...

Cool...

Dan, Any updates?

Any progress?

Nope, direct bolt on and drive.

I think the Extradhone would be a great finish process after the ports have been roughly reshaped by hand as the extrude hone process isn’t going to drastically “reshape” the ports, at least in the manner we may desire, For example, the huge step in the roof of the exhaust port reduced/shaped, widening the bowl of the exhaust port for extreme applications, entrance to the intake port raised, etc. I think the Extrude Hone would compliment a rough hand port nicely. Question, Are they able to apply this process to the entire combustion chamber as well?

Haynes manual for the S-30 has the complete car and EFI wiring diagrams for ’70-’77 Z cars. Shows the connectors, etc.

Jerry, I apologize for my poor attempt at humor. No harm or insult meant. What I meant to really say was that at first glance, my initial reaction to this concept-Z, in particular the nose and vertical portions of the front fenders, have a striking resemblance to the modern Mopar Magnum and Challenger cars pictured below. They are different in detail, though the concept and style is similar. Sort of gives the illusion of large flaring nostrils. Chrysler-esque... Again, I apologize if I offended anyone with my previous comments. Those comments were meant in humor only.

Where you moving to?

Now which new Chrysler 300/Charger/Magnum/RT is this one? When I look at just the front, (firewall forward), I always get those new Mopars confused...

And nice touch with the overspray on the A pillar..

We share similar sentiments. Yes an actual Ferrari engine would be uber cool, it possesses massive WOW factor, but the cost of the SBC/SBF, and to a greater degree, having had a hand in the transformation of a power plant on this level is a common primal male craving. It’s a guy thing, more of a power trip really. To have control over an inanimate object and harness the laws of physics in such a way to work in harmony, from the efforts of our own creativity, ideas and sweat, not just our bank account alone.

Here is a thread discussing this topic. Pics of shortened quill shaft etc... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=127926&highlight=quill+shaft

A quick search revealed this topic has been discussed and literally beat to depth in more than a few threads. This particular thread linked below I feel covers the GM IAT sensor location placement rather well, specifically regarding Mega-Squirt and the L-6 with some in-depth info including MS datalogging reports... http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=115937

That is NOT a quench head! Note how the entire chamber that is directly over the piston, is sunk into the head? That is an open pocket when the piston at TDC. A quench head has the actual chamber that is directly over some portion of the piston to be flush with the deck of the of the head, or the piston will have dome that fills any void in the open portion of the chamber at TDC, factory Datsun L-series pistons don't.

I too am quite interested in just how many RPM can hydraulic lifters/adjusters go before they “pump up” or hit whatever limit/issue hydraulic lash adjusters run into? I haven’t really dug into this topic myself, though I am curious if this is a universal issue/limit or dependant on lifter design/manufacturer or is it a myth masking the issue of possibly weak valve springs? We read about it all the time regarding domestic V-8,s. Some sources will claim as low as 6000, others claim as much as 7500, others claim it depends on the lifter and manufacturing tolerances in the clearances, others claim it is related to how much valve spring pressure, others claim how much oil pressure feeding the lifter, others say it depends on where in the “adjustment range” the lifters are set to.. etc etc etc… Not sure of the relevance regarding the L-6 hydraulic lash adjusters, but I’ll share my later model Nissan hydraulic experiences. My ’96 Infiniti Q-45, VH45DE, has hydraulics lash adjusters and the factory rev limiter limits RPM to 7100 RPM. It ran great, never missed a beat all the way to the rev limiter. My ’93 Z-32 with VG30DE, hydraulic lash adjusters, recently replaced the factory ECU with a WOLF 3-D V-500, programmed the new rev limit to 7300 soft cut, 7400 hard cut, runs great all the way up, the WOLF rev limiter is MUCH smoother and virtually seamless as compared to the OE rev limiter. No noticeable hydraulic lash adjusters pumping up or valve float.

1) If you are at all familiar with VG30DE and TT version, you will know they are very similar physically on the exterior, aside from the turbos obviously. So by default, the TT version will add more complexity to the conversion due to the Turbos, intake and exhaust plumbing, intercoolers, etc… 2) As for the list of mods to install the engine? Totally depends on your budget, fabrication and skill set, and how “custom” or “OE” you want the conversion to appear AND perform. Sorry, but there is no realistic blanket answer for your initial question. You need to give us a LOT more specifics before we can offer any sort of realistic answer. For example, some people don’t mind a totally hacked bubba conversion, others prefer their conversions to be as OE appearing and driving as possible, while others prefer nothing short of show and race quality. Budget, fab skills and available resources to perform the conversion all are part of the equation.

Deja, There is a difference between the 240-Z and 260/280-Z rack bushings. Be sure you are using the appropriate bushings for your particular rack. The racks are interchangeable between cars and sometimes are swapped out. The bushings must match the rack itself, not necessarily the car as the cross-member mounts are the same size/config on all S-30's. The 240-Z Rack has a cast aluminum housing that houses the pinion gear and the drivers side bushing. 260/280-Z rack has a cast iron housing that houses the pinion gear and driver side bushing. If the rack is covered in dirt, grime, grease, paint etc, a magnet is the easiest to distinguish between the two. Also, the 240 rack is just a tad quicker ratio.

Thank you guys, but I can’t take the credit for that. I purchased the car with those tires and wheels already on it. Fronts are 13” diameter, 10” wide. Rears are 13” dia, 13” wide. Tires are Formula Atlantic racing slicks. Here is the original BRAAP car. With the L-28 it had Dual 2” exiting out the OE 280-Z bumper holes, (2" in this shot), then became dual 2 ½” with the V-8. Had to modifiy/shave the side of the OE '75 fuel tank to clear the exhaust pipe on the passenger side.

Scarab badges, Scarab this, Scarab that, Scarab Scarab SCARAB!?!?!? Yet no mention in all the “alterations from the original Scarab build”, of the JTR V-8 engine mounting? Note the HEI under the JTR hood latch and the JTR trans bracket! Not an original Scarab V-8 installation location in the chassis. The car is quite beautiful, price is WAY more than fair, I would love to own that car myself and actually prefer the engine in its JTR position for numerous reasons, though I am struggling with why someone would not leave the Scarab V-8 mounted in the Scarab position? To take a true Scarab and install a JTR set back, in my not so humble opinion, just takes so much of the Scarab out of the Scarab. Badges are badges, and other nuances of the Scarab are still Scarab, but how and where Scarab installed the V-8 in the chassis is what separates a Scarab from other V-8 Z cars and makes them just that much more “special”. Again, it is a gorgeous car and as seen in the same light as any other JTR converted V-8 Z, is an incredible deal with neat history, and the Scarab badging is icing on the cake.

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Porting??... Hmmm… I for one am a huge advocate for porting. Heck, port work is our primary business! From Intake and exhaust ports and manifolds to coolant and oil passages and pumps. If fluid flows through it and I have access to it, it gets ported, (air falling into the category of a fluid). And Ron Tyler laughs at me whenever I port on an L-6 front cover smoothing the transitions for the coolant and the oil. HA!

Any time you open ANY brake line, or even crack open a bleeder valve, you should bleed the brake system. If the brakes worked prior to “the brake job”, fluid level never got low enough to introduce air into the system, and the rotors were at least scuffed to some degree during “the brake job”, (helps in bedding in the new brake pads), then the brakes should still work as effectively as they did prior to “the brake job”, otherwise something is amiss and the issue needs to be diagnosed before releasing the car over to the owner. Brake issues are serious and if not resolved?... Well you get the point. Brake bleeding procedure for all Z-32’s is the typical brake bleeding procedure. 1) Pressure bleeding is by far the quickest and easiest method, though the necessary tooling can be expensive to purchase, or time intensive to build on your own. (I built my own using a spare Z-32 master cylinder cap, 1 gallon jug for brake fluid, and pressure regulator for my shop air, reduced down to 10 PSI) 2) With a second person, one in the car, pumping and holding the brake pedal, the other person opening and closing the brake bleeder valves at each wheel also works just fine. This procedure is simple, 100% effective, just time consuming vs pressure bleeding. When bleeding the brakes on the Z-32, be prepared to go through at least 1 quart, if not 2 quarts of brake fluid minimum. The front brake lines run from the master cylinder to behind the passenger seat where the ABS pump resides, then back up to the front of the car. Don’t forget the ABS pump also has bleeder valves on it, so don’t forget to bleed those, and also don’t forget the bleeder valve on the master cylinder itself. Bleed those first. Here is the Factory NISSNA Service manual, brake section, first page. http://www.300zx-twinturbo.com/cgi-bin/manual.cgi Hope that helps.

Oh yeah baby... You will be sure and document that build here on HybridZ, wont you? As Tony so eloquently put it, it will only be marginal at best, In my mind, an SB2.2 build, especially with a monster displacement 434 cid, would be one of, if not the, penultimate N/A SBC's!!!