LS1 240Z

the car can proably be fixed for around $3-4000 depending on the shop, just fix the TA is my suggestion. buyback will be under $1000 probably

unless its a 5,000 mile LS1 and M6 out of a 01 or 02 it deffinatly isnt worth that

just buy your LT1 car back from the insurance co, pay off what you owe and let the car sit somewhere while you drive around a $1000 beater car

immigrants working for below minium wage. "hey, see if these brakes work on this car..."

i belive from GM parts direct was the 6k including stand alone harness and computer. buy the LS2 though. AC is on its own belt, so it is removed so easily. for the PS, you just get a shorter belt. T56 clutches run 3-700 depending. yeah a used LS1 is a good deal, but the LS2 is better, it already has upgraded heads and it has more displacement. it all comes down to personal prefrences and a budget in the end. id budget about 1000 for all the things you will forget lol

stock T56s have some issues, you should step it up to a aftermarket one anyways IMO. only accesory that you need on a crate motor would be the alt, already has a water pump on it.

a 408 LSx motor with ported heads and a turbo would rule that motor hardcore just ask Parrish;) fyi the C4 would only be good for drag racing, id stuff a worked over LSx motor into a C5 and actualy be able to handle, granted i wouldnt do as good at the strip, but id brake, turn, and turn better track times as well as not being so far behind at the the drag strip

for a 01-04 LS1 anything more than $3500 is to much IMO. you can still buy a brand spanking new LS1, harness and computer for 6k i belive

if you must go with a SBC go with a 4.00 bore (400 sbc) and a 350 crank. you will have a motor that wraps up quick with lots of upper rpms. lots of guys use them when they run powerglides at the drag strip becuase of the 7k plus redline. seriously look into upgrading from a gen 1/2 motor to the gen 3/4 motor (LS1, 2, 6, 7) the initial cost is more, and you would have to switch motor/trans mounts but its completely worth it IMO, the LSx motors are FAR more advanced than the gen1/2 arcitecture (sp?) a bone stock LS1 has a redline of 6,000 and can take 7,000 rpms depending on what block you get. LSx motors rule the first gen. for a picky person with a decent budget you will be exremly happy with a LSx motor.

all carpet, passanger seat, dash, door pannels (i wouldnt cut out the inside of the doors if you ever drive it on the street.. get hit in the side = death) remove headlights, tail lights, front sway bar. power steering if you have it. lastly make sure the person who is driving it dosent weigh over 200 lbs, thats the easiest way to cut weight off your car, is to cut it off you you could even remove the hood lol

looks like my car lol, ive seen 2 cars on this site that pretty much look like mine. im doing the LS1 swap too. just hope that rust isnt too bad. you would figure that in california you could find a rust free Z lol

LT1s have weak weak weak ringglands. the pistons will come appart if you put lots of boost on it. dont do nitrous either. do your heads, cam and then when you want more get a powerdyne supercharger. cheap, reliable and silent.

hot cam is decent gains for a daily driver or something that isnt all out, plus it has a nice sound is and really cheap. im not sure but i think the lift on the LS6 cam is bigger, but thats only one part of a cams profile, i know the 112(?) LSA on the hotcam helps it out. hotcam was designed by GM for showroom stock drag racing as i understand it. if this is in a 240Z it would sound great, have great power and be reliable. but if you wanted a true hp monster yeah, you should have gone with a diffrent cam

oh come on, "blonde moment" "jody" what was i suppose to think? sorry for the mistake

wow, if you dont mind me saying so but a female driving a LT1 swapped Z car is hella hot.

for the love of everything that is good, pure and holy in the world do not put flares on that car, please. just get some bumpers on it and thats ALL, dont paint the wheels, dont put flares on it, just those panasports, no flares, and a cf hood and it will be tasteful without being cluttered/gawdy

im not really sure to tell you the truth, i just know that they are diffrent and are to wide for a lot of swaps, but you could look into it. LS1 tech is probably the best place for that particular question

it looks like its a hardtop... is it a Z28 or a B4C?

personaly i dont think LS1s sound as good with open headers as SBCs. so whats the deal with the wrecked LS1 car sitting there? donor for another project?

they have the Gen III (LS1,6)and Gen IV (LS2,4,7) moutning points..

i think you could spend $3500 making up 88 lbs elsewhere.. dont compromise reliablity, isnt that why you are going to the LSx motor anyways?

yes, the iron block is very durable and cheap. 100 lbs really isnt anything in weight diffrence. by the time you are worrying about 100lbs do cf hood, fenders and go on a diet.

if you want my .03 you should sell the LS1 you have now for cash, and use a bare block or a motor that is blown for your mocking up. with that much hp/NO2/boost you really need to step up to a cast block. its not that much heavier and you would probably be happier. a C5R block or LS7 block would be something you should look at also. personaly i also think that you shouldnt do a really radical custom, yeah its cool, but if you are going to go and replace just about every single part on the car and make it custom, why not make a completely custom car that dosent look like anything else... just drop the LS1 you have in there as the car sits now, just making it nice and clean. depending on what cam you get you can get 400 on up rwhp out of a stock head/bottom end LS1. when you want something a little more... swap heads and go to a FI cam and run low boost on either a procharger or a turbo set up.. there was one guy on LS1 tech, had a A4 3600 lb Firebird with a forged stroker motor, big cam and aftermarket heads and he would do LOW 9 seconds on the bottle... LS1s have pretty much unlimited potential, only limited by the pocket book