240zip

I'm running Konig Rewinds 15x7's with 215/60/15's. That gives me a 25.2" radius and 5.1" sidewalls. I'm thinking about either 225/50/15's or 205/50/15's. The former will yield 23.9" radius with a 4.4" sidewall and the latter will yield 23.1 radius and 4" sidewall. What are other people running on their Z's? I'm looking at the Kumho Ecsta AST's which are rather reasonable and available in a wide range of sizes. My 215/60/15s tend to rub a hair and yield a bouncy ride. I'm leaning towards the 205/50/15s, but I'm worried about the ride off the track. Any suggestions?

So if I block off the mechanical and then replace the OEM with the Holley red, shouldn't that work?

I'm not sure I get what you mean. You have the Holley Red AND the stock electric pump (both)? Why do you need both?

I'm going to get the Holley red and replace the pump in back.

I have a set of triple webers, a filter king fuel filter, and some fuel pump which I don't know the name of, but it makes a rumbling noise in the back. I have a wideband A/F meter and also a fuel pressure gauge in-line after the fuel filter. At idle, the gauge shows 3psi and then when I start it drops nearly to zero. The A/F ratio is about 9.8 at idle and then under load it can jump to 14 or even 16 / 18. I pull off the gas if it goes up that high. The filter has a glass bowl so I can see it's only getting 1/2 full. My gut tells me the fuel pump is bad. It's the only thing in the set-up that's old. But I'm not sure if those filter king fuel filters are supposed to be 1/2 full. I'm pretty sure they'll work with webers as I've seen them in pictures of vintage race cars with triples. Any recommendations on where to start?

good luck, black NOS ones were available in Canada. For red ones, you might have to get yours recovered. http://www.zzxdatsun.com/catSoftTrim.php the skins are available in red, white, and black.

I have a set of 'T-Rated' 215/60/15 tires on Konig 15x7 rims. They seem to rub when I turn lock to lock up front. I'm thinking of swapping out these 'balloons' with a set of 225/50/15 tires. Are there other issues with suspension geometry which would cause front tire rubbing? The front is lowered perhaps 1". I have AZC linear rate springs. While it's claimed they're stock height, i think it does lower the car a tad. Any thoughts or advice. Would people expect the 215/60/15 tires to rub? It doesn't seem right that they're rubbing. I'm somewhat concerned that the off-set is wrong. These were on the car when I bought it. I have no idea if they were correct for the car.

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/topages/knockout2.php Would using a sheet metal punch be considered 'expensive' for this application?

I currently have air horns and the K&N set-up. It 'feels' restrictive. I was going to dyno with the air horns and the K&N off ... see if there's any measurable difference. I also have two sets of air horns (one's longer and bends up a tad). Again, given I'll have time on the dyno, I was going to try and measure any differences. I can't use the K&N's with the longer horns. They won't fit.

anyone?

I was looking at mesh filters for my Weber 42DCOE's. I saw the typically velocity stack filters which are mesh, I've seen socks that clamp on. Finally I came across these motorcycle air cones that come in 42mm and 48mm sizes. I've seen ITB's that use such cone filters. Has anyone tried them on a triple DCOE set-up? the mesh filters cost about $35/pair so $140 for a set of six. these cone filters run less than $10 each, so $60 a set including shipping. I guess the biggest issue is whether or not they'll fit. has anyone looked into this option?

the person in my photo was natural ...

Just a warning. I told my wife that my current car was going to be an 'easy project' and should take no more than a month. It took more than one year. Check out this thread of my build. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/96860-update-on-240z-restoration/page__p__909740__fromsearch__1#entry909740 The car isn't finished yet. I still need to re-do the seats, replace the dash with a new one I have. Replace the door panels with OEM ones I have and detail the complete interior. It will be nice when done, but a one month project turned into a two year event.

given labor costs in Germany and the cost of shipping the car to the EU I would expect that $5,000 would be a good price for a car. Having said that ... http://seattle.craigslist.org/sno/pts/2256393438.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/2251229327.html http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/cto/2252521553.html if you bring a car in as a parts car, it falls under different import regulations. I'm sure you know that. It's always easier to bring in a good running car rather that deal with regulations after. http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/ctd/2245305368.html http://losangeles.craigslist.org/wst/cto/2253161745.html It's really a pain to try and move and then load a non-running car. I've done it for my father-in-law in Europe. Really, really a pain.

If I were to set the parameters for the photo session, I would have wanted to re-create a more vintage look. I have a bunch of older Datsun brochures from the 70s and I would have liked to use someone who looked like their 'Twiggy' models. I'm not a fan of the typically 'Easy Rider' style of photography I see today. But having said that, I was simply pleased to have someone want to use the car in a series of shoots. Import Tuner has some decent car photography. I like the inner city graffiti shots they often use. Makes for a nice contrast.

Jochen, You're welcome to contact this person directly ... it's very original, has the 2.4L engine, and with the current exchange rate it's a bargain for you. http://cosprings.craigslist.org/cto/2248585495.html Mit freundlichen Grüßen

We have a few 100 pics from the shoot that day. Some were done in a warehouse. Some were done outdoors. I just decided to share one which I thought was nice. I agree that the car should not have been cut out of the picture. The photographer flew a few models in that day for a number of automotive-related shooting. There are plenty of shots without the girls in them. There are a few with them in their underwear too. I suspect those wouldn't meet the 'photo posting guidelines' message I got.

Recent picture from model shoot using car as a prop ..

It would sell quickly at $4,500 - possibly to a Canadian buyer. Most restorations are a loss. Meaning you'll put more into the car than you'll get out. It's very easy to spend $6,000 on a moderate restoration doing much of the work yourself. Simply 'refreshing' the car would likely not bring you up to $10,000. The interior is nice - the dash looks uncracked and I like that it has the OEM radio and an early A/C. Post an engine shot please. I'd like to see how it looks under the hood.

We did a photo shoot of my 1971 240Z using professional models and a professional photographer. Will post more, but this one was especially nice.

OK ... here's mine. Most pieces were re-plated. Valve cover and timing cover are powdercoated. There were a few custom fabricated pieces to make it all work.

Just incredible ... wow ...

There just doesn't seem to be that many options for a good clean installation. I'm left with a SST remote audio and LCD controller option, one of the vintage audio installations, or chopping up my dash. I'm not going to chop or cut the dash. Well ... it's not something I really want to do ... perhaps I could take a bezel that's already chopped and use that. I have two OEM radios. I'm currently leaning towards one of the 'hidden' radio options. I'd like to mount the OEM AM/FM simply because of the look. It just seems that this 'hidden' option is like 5 years behind state-of-the-art. They sell color LCD-based MP3 players for under $20 with FM transmitters. You'd think someone could create a better alternative.

The Infinity 5032cf also has a 2.25" mounting depth. They sound nice. I've seen (can't seem to find any) shallow mount speakers that require only 2".

just an FYI ... to use the Subaru STi 3.9 R180 LSD on a Z car with half shafts, you'll need an adapter like the one John Coffey made. I'm guessing you're aware of this, but the Datsun and Subaru R180s are not interchangeable. Different spline counts.