240zip

Rex Chalmers at AlfaRex rebuilds them. http://www.alfarex.com/services/weber.html If it's good enough for Ferrari's, Lambo's, and Maserati's, then it's good enough for me. Very reasonable too.

btw ... I noticed my pictures show my old OEM vacuum advance distributor ... it had a serious 'bog' problem at around 2,000 RPM. I still drove the car at HPR, but it's now much more responsive from the start.

Jeff helped with my 42DCOE's ... he has a complete jetting set-up. He doesn't have a dyno but will rent time and then just charge you by the hour for the tuning and dialing in. Expect perhaps $200 to $300 to really dial-in the carbs if you're starting with a decent rebuilt or new set. If you want to get your triples rebuilt, I recommend Rex Chalmers. He costs about $100 a carb and you can supply the rebuild kit or he'll do it. That's a complete tear down and rebuild to like-new. If you're running triple webers, you absolutely need a distributor with a mechanical advance. I use a Mallory, Pertronix, MSD 6A and that's in combination with a good low pressure high volume pump and secondary regulator. with what you spend on getting triples right, you can go with ITBs and MegaSquirt for less. Of course I absolutely love mine.

North ... near Longmont ... unfortunately a haul from the Springs

If anyone in Colorado wants to play with the machine and test their distributor let me know ...

Has anyone tested their distributors on a Sun Distributor Testing Machine? We have a 504 and a 506 (similar machines but the 506 tests up to 12,000 engine RPM). I know the whole Ferrari and Fiat people live by these machines and we even have special adapters for their distributor models. The machine will allow you to create a very accurate graph of the advance curve and even has a vacuum pump to test and show the impact of the vacuum advance on top of the mechanical advance curves. You can also test and dial in distributors such as the Mallory Unite ones with those little counter weights.

I personally think a turbo build would be cheaper than a good NA build that you're describing. I did an E31, F54, flat top, .5mm overbore with upgraded cam, DCOE 42's, header, MSD 6AL, MSD mechanical advance distributor, and all the 'correct' things needed to make it work and I suspect I could have done a junk yard turbo swap for less. I also added a 5 speed, lighten flywheel, and fabricated a complete exhaust system. Getting the Webers, rebuilding them, getting a compete jetting kit, dialing in the Webers on the dyno, etc. ... it's all going to add up. I personally love the set-up. Lots of low end torque, fun at the track, incredible sound ... more like a vintage Italian car than your typical Datsun. But in the end, it was worth it. The car also has a R180 LSD from a WRX STi and a completely new upgraded suspension. We didn't go all that extreme. linear rate springs, Illumina's, urethane bushings, front / rear sways, front / rear strut tower bars, 15" wheels.

have you looked at U-Pol Weld #2 - Weld Through Primer?

incredible build

kudos ... very impressive. I would guess you could fab a very nice cold air box for a set of triple webers.

likely you need to replace the synchros. 1st and reverse are common ones to go bad. If you have a 4 speed, it's likely cheaper to swap in a good used one. I've given away good 4 speeds.

On the AFM ... I have an innovate wide band with data logging.

The nice thing about Webers DCOEs are that they're are very easy to change. My usage profile would be 3 or 4 track / autocross events a year and then a weekend barnstormer / ride in the hills. So I'd likely set it up for the weekend drives and then have another set-up for race day. Again ... the beauty of these things are that you can do a quick change with a flat head screw driver.

I was checking my choke stash and I have 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm chokes. These are for 42DCOEs. The 28mm chokes look tiny. The 28mm ones came from a 40DCOE. It seems most of the 40DCOE and 42DCOE parts are interchangeable. I don't know if I have a 34mm choke. I think those might be on the car right now. I'm going to get with Jeff Winters of Ralley/Sport and have him put the car and dyno and dial in the settings. We're adding the distributor with the mechanical advance (thanks again) and after that's dialed-in we'll do a few hours of tuning on the dyno. Like you, I have boxes of air corrector jets, idle jets, emulsion tubes, and other bits. The combination is daunting - hence the reason I value someone like Jeff who an expert on these carbs. My biggest issue right now is a bit of bog off the line and then mid RPM bog. If I'm lugging alone at 2500 RPM and I hit the gas, I get a bit of hesitation. On the track, where I'm constantly keeping the RPMs up ... there's no problem. It screams. Oh ... speaking of altitude. I'm at 5,400'. It's a pain to tune Webers at this altitude.

I got that silver sharpie and it does work very well. Really good for the OEM radio.

zredbaron question - all things being equal, if you go up in altitude, should you go down in choke size (e.g. 32mm to 30mm)? I checked my stash and I have 28mm, 30mm, and 32mm chokes for my 42DCOEs. I may have a set of 34mm ones but I could be wrong about that. I also have these sleves that go inside the chokes. I've only come across them once, but they will turn a 32mm choke into a 30mm one. Supposedly cheaper than getting a new set of chokes.

thanks for saving that one ... excellent

sixteen companies in Colorado doing fabrication similar to what you did .. http://colorado.uscity.net/Metal_Fabrication/ 83 welder jobs listed in Colorado ... http://www.indeed.com/q-Welder-l-Colorado-jobs.html I'm sure you'll land on your feet and get something soon. The one (Vestas) looks interesting because it's a European company (I think it might be Finnish) and they're into wind technology. It's down in Pueblo which is near the race track there. https://vestas.taleo.net/careersection/global_external/jobdetail.ftl?job=17840&src=jb&sdtl=Indeed&jvc=url this one is in Boulder. Great place to live, a bit expensive, but as Tony D pointed out, that's what room mates are for. You can get a room for about $500/month in Boulder. Wage is up to $24/hour DOE. http://www.careerbuilder.com/JobSeeker/Jobs/JobDetails.aspx?ipath=EXIND&siteid=cbindeed&Job_DID=J8A1FW72CPTDPF9G2BF

Colorado has quite a few welding jobs: http://denver.craigslist.org/search/jjj?query=welding&srchType=A What I found a bit disappointing, however was some of these which required 'skilled labor' were only willing to pay $10/hour. You can get nearly that flipping burgers. That $10/hour equates to $1,600 month and if you factor in a car, insurance, room, food, and gas ... it's not even close to a living wage. When I've paid fabricators to do work for me, I've had no problem giving them $25 to $35 / hour and most people would agree that's very cheap. One person I know, who has a home based welding shop, is 100% booked and he has a flat rate of $35/hour. Running your own business isn't easy. Learn the business first. One idea would be to comb craigslist, get a 1/2 decent, but paying job. take on some extra projects on the side and once you gain a client-base, consider going into business for yourself. you may even consider an arrangement with you boss where you could get some sort of profit sharing if you bring in business. if a shop owner isn't willing to have that sort of arrangement, then they're short sighted and will likely lose their best talent.

But isn't SEM Color Coat a spray? I need a small jar of paint to do the lettering and raised accents in silver.

I got the five speed version of this knob. If feels much better in the hand than the old wooden / plastic OEM one. It also goes better with the Momo wheel.

What do people use when restoring the console and radio to re-paint the silver trim pieces. I was thinking of simply using Testor's Silver Enamel, but wondered if anyone had something better.

you're correct, the Time-Sert or Helicoil is the way to go. I'll go that route. I'm not sure what I was thinking ... perhaps I just wanted to fire up the TIG.

At this point, it looks like I'm going to just cut the M8 thread off the shifter and TIG weld the M10 thread on to it. I did find some press fit M8 inserts but I'm leaning towards the welding approach unless someone tells me otherwise.

I have a nice M10x1.25 threaded shift knob and noticed that the shifter in my car is M8x1.25. Is there anyway to adapter the M10x1.25 to the M8x1.25? Does anyone may a threaded adapter or insert? I guess I could put a little JB Weld in there and be done with it.