240zip

does the smaller alternator result in less drag on the motor and thus a measurable increase in HP? Is the weight difference significant?

very nice ... especially the CF one. Will you one day to the center console to match the door panels?

on the 300ZX differential. Yes ... you can get one, but it's a R200 ... not a R180. The R180 LSD units from the Subaru STi's are often easier to source. I have an LSD unit from a 300ZX Turbo. I had to get the mustache bar from a 280Z and the cover from a R200 (also from a 280Z). I was lucky in that I found the R200 unit in a junk yard and it came from a low mileage wreck. I'm saving my R200 for the turbo build we're working on.

I think I got the greatest joy from the engine build. We took a 280ZX 2.8L block, bored it out .5mm, then added an E31 head with a mild cam with a 270 duration and a .45 lift. We added headers, a nice custom fabricated exhaust and 42DCOE's which were rebuilt in Rex Chalmers in the US. We had a custom radiator that has the exact dimensions and fittings for the 240Z. Many hang too low when placed into the 240Z. Most of the pieces under the hood were plated. It's by no means perfect, but it's nice for a car that actually gets drive and see some time at the track. We did go with the 5 speed. It's an early one with the closer ratio gears. We rebuilt it, added a lightened flywheel and a stage 2 clutch. Right now it has the Pertronix Ignitor, MSD 6AL, and the stock distributor. The crank damper was rebuilt. Nothing very aggressive, but it's fun as heck to drive. Right now I'm dealing with some low RPM issues which seem to be tied to the issue of vacuum advance not working with the Webers. Hopefully that will be sorted out soon. We've done a few photo shoots with the car. In terms of future upgrades, we're going to focus on getting the interior this Winter. There are a few bits and pieces that need to get plated and then re-installed. Once I have a load of parts to bring to the place that does my plating, I'll likely swap out those pieces.

When we did the suspension, we removed all the bolts, cleaned them, bead blasted if necessary, then had them re-plated (cadnium. We also powder coated the suspension pieces after media blasting them. I used the BetaMax conversion hubs to add a Subaru R180 3.7 ratio LSD. I did not do a rear disc brake conversion.

Any updates on people using this PowerForce Harmonic Damper 80055? I saw this was three years ago and wondered how it turned out.

Rebello (here in the US) makes a 2.4L motor that's stroked and bored to a 2.7 I believe. It's called the "Purist" 2.7. This setup uses your existing 240Z engine so your numbers match. The motor has a big bore, long-rod combination and the E-31 or E-88 cylinder touring style head from your stock 240Z engine. On pump gas this motor produces 240 HP with SU carbs or 270 HP with tripple carbs (as shown). http://www.rebelloracing.com/enginebuild.htm While you'll need to check with him on prices, I'm going to guess that unless you can do this on your own, with the current exchange rate, it might be cheaper to simply import the motor from the US. a 240HP motor would be incredible and you have access to better gas in Suisse than we do here. The motor is just one aspect of a proper build. suspension, brakes, transmission, differential, the exhaust. It's a complete package.

I saw them. They have one. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_trksid=p5197.c0.m619&item=390354306838&viewitem=&category=33643 I could just get a GM 4, 3, and 2 letter and then combine them. About the same size (e.g. 1 inch). But to be honest, if I can one OEM I could carve it out of aluminum on my CNC mill.

I need three of the JDM Fairlady 432 emblems. not sure if anyone had made reproductions. I'm not interested in a decal.

Pit Crew for my 240Z ... 1971 240Z with lots of upgrades Side view At Goodguys Autocross ...

yes, this is for the vacuum advance for the distributor. I guess that wasn't clear. I have what is termed a 'street' cam grind, triple Webers, and the stock distributor with Pertronix / MSD 6AL. Even with proper (meaning dyno-tuned) jetting, I'm getting a little bog around 2,000 RPM. Everything points to the timing advance. The right thing to do is likely an Electromotive crank fire set-up with coil-packs. I think there's a MegaSquirt equivalent there too. I was just hoping for a simple (and cheaper) fix.

both intakes have balance tubes ...

I have two Canon intakes for a triple Weber set-up. One has a single vacuum connector and a balance tube across the intakes. The second has three into one collector that has tubes running into the first three intake runners, then into a collector, and then to the vacuum advance. My question: Given there's a balance tube, would the amount of vacuum generated by both be equal? Or would the 3 into 1 generate 3x the vacuum?

So I re-read the post. I guess you'd need a different unit to run EFI. It seems the XDI and XDI-2 differences are the MAP sense and you stated that it's not much of a difference. Did you have to custom make the crank sense wheel? I have one that for SDS. I'm going to guess that it's a different wheel for the XDI set-up.

OK ... that explains a ton. I'm not sure I'll spring $1,200 for the XDI-2 crank fire system. Of course it's only money right? It seems what you have is almost a mechanical EFI. It would almost make sense to just go with ITBs and skip the DCOEs at that point.

how is everyone handling vacuum advance with triples? I have a manifold that has three vacuum ports that go into a collector and then to the vacuum advance on the distributor. this improved the low RPM bog, didn't fix it all together.

Are running the 245/45-17 BFG G-Force Sport radials that are shown in the picture of your 240Z ... if you are, then that's part of the issue.

I have the AZC linear rate springs, the ride is not harsh. I think they're great springs. I have energy suspension urethane bushings. The biggest (and I mean biggest) differences came from the tire sidewall height. I've had 65 mud and snow tires and and 50 series. I've seen folks with 45's. The 65's were like balloon and a bit 'bouncy'. The 205/50R-15 Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec I have now are great track tires. For street, I'd consider something a bit taller. The ride got more harsh when I dropped to the 50s. It was significant. I have the Tokico 5-way struts and don't notice much from changing the settings, but I keep it in the middle most of the time. My end links are urethane too. The steering coupler is one thing many people keep as rubber, but again, I went with urethane with no issues.

looks like a vintage ANSA exhaust with twin tips ... the sun roof is a bummer, likely leaks. for $400 ... a score indeed.

interesting thread. I found a tutorial on sequential transmissions because I had no idea how they worked. http://auto.howstuffworks.com/sequential-gearbox.htm that will be one amazing car.

rickcaro@aol.com (949) 307-2136 ask for RC ... btw, price went up since I posted this ... now closer to $200. My local plating shop was able to do a batch for me for less. Rick offers a number of different options, personally I'd go with nickle instead of cad.

McKinney sells a ton of RB swap parts and has a great deal of experience with wiring harnesses and such for the S30 / RB Swap http://mckinneymotorsports.com/prod_240+260+280Z+parts

Second ... have you hooked an AFM up and checked AFR across the RPM range?

how much mechanical advance are you running?

If you go to Sunrise Z they state, "These pictures were taken courtesy of Beta Motorsports who does all our metal fabrication work and rust repair." Les (Classic Datsun) is good for the roadsters and a factory restoration whereas I like JohnC (Beta Motorsports) for anything race related / fabrication / performance. While the stock car is fine, drive a well-sorted 240Z and it's really hard to step back into a factory car.