240zip

I replaced the master, slave, and that rubber hose to the slave all at the same time. You can source all at your local Advance Auto. There are some minor differences on the clutch slave so do your research.

Fill, flush, check for leaks. the whole clutch systems is fairly simply on a S30. You either have air in your line, a break in your line, a defective master, or a defective slave cylinder. All parts are easy to source and not expensive to replace. My guess ... clutch slave failed.

There is are slightly different specifications between the B (automatic transmission) cam shaft on the P90 head and the J (manual) cam shaft. http://xenons130.com/cams.html#Stock I have a NOS OEM B cam shaft for the P90 and wondered if the slightly higher exhaust lift associated with the B cam profile would make any difference on a manual transmission application.

"If I had to do it all over again, I would have fully built the entire car's suspension before even thinking of touching the engine." So true ... body, suspension, brakes ... then start thinking about the engine

1) my choice ... L28ET ... this has been discussed SO MANY TIMES ... best value, best power / weight, easiest swap (IMHO). 2) second choice ... V8 JTR also a decent swap, different character to the car v8 vs turbo). 3) third choice ... SR20DET ... lots of aftermarket pieces, more modern, also a good choice. More expensive to do right than an L28ET. I've seen a RB25DE with ITBs ... that may get you to 300 RWHP, but expensive and not all that cost effective.

az240Z's panels were spoken for, anyone else have one for the passenger side ... Anyone, Anyone? ... Bueller?

So sweet!

OK ... you got me. 15x8 Watanabe 4.9kg vs Konig Rewind 15" 6.6kg. No real comparison. Watanabe is magnesium, some are forged whereas Konig's are a nice looking copy (cast aluminum and powder coated) But price ... $2000 vs $500. I have the Konig Rewind rims on my car. Works for me, I wish had the pockets to afford a set of Watanabe's.

The Watanabe rims look identical to Konig Rewind rims ... are the Watanabe rims lighter?

PM sent, thanks

Doesn't have to be both ... will consider left or right ...

I got a battery tray, thanks.

I need rear quarter panels for a 240Z.

Thanks for posting, cool movie

The metal battery tray itself is what I'm looking for. It's what the battery rests directly upon ... not the rounded metal fender. Can you send me a picture and your price?

I need a rust free 240Z battery box. This is the metal body piece that the battery sits upon and is welded to the inner fender wall.

note ... mine was an MSA header, not NISMO

So, I had the same issue for my build. I'm sure John C will have something to say with my approach. First we made them even. We then added a two into one and a flange. Then we created a flange with a stainless flex coupler which went to the rest of the exhaust. Sorry the pictures stink.

My preference is the vintage looking bucket seat on the driver's side. If you don't want it ... I'm happy to take it off your hands.

I think the best deal for rear brakes is the $375 kit from this guy in Las Vegas. http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/102954-desert-z-brake-conversion/

20 MPG from triples? My set-up works fine 42DCOE, mechanical advance distributor, MSD 6AL, Petronix, but 20 MPG ... not even close. I think I'm getting like 8 MPG at the track. Picture shows OEM distributor and vacuum advance. That set-up, did not work well. Classic bog at 1500 to 1800 RPM. In hindsight, I think timing advance had a great deal to do with it and not just the mechanical advance. We also took advice from Jeff Winters on the air corrector, idle jets, and other parameters. Even changing the plugs helped. So I can't say all my results were from the mechanical advance alone.

I would also be interested in such an adapter if you wanted to make a small production run.

Love that heel-toe action. I was watching Jeff Winters in his GT2 240Z while in the car with him at HPR in Colorado. Much quicker shifting action (Jeff), but the braking and heel-toe was similar.

Question. Which is better? Motul RBF 600 Racing Brake Fluid or ATE Super Blue Brake Fluid? I like the blue / gold alternating flush approach. Are either available at places like Advance Auto or AutoZone?

I'm leaning towards this one for the rear shoes. Carbotech™ 912 Kelated Metallic™ An advance organic-metallic compound specially formulated for drum shoe applications in lighter weight race cars and/or high performance street vehicles. High friction coefficient of 0.46 to 0.48, providing excellent braking without any risk of lock-up. Very good brake modulation throughout the entire brake pedal travel range, with excellent wear characteristics, providing an outstanding value. With a price-point significantly below other compounds offering similar performance, 912 ™ is an excellent choice for the budget-minded racer or high-performance driver. Optimal recommended operating temperature range is from ambient to 650°F.