240zip

I think some people were asking about pricing. I see they're available for around $330 including shipping from multiple vendors (eBay) which seems very fair. Given this option I'm very interested in the Koyorad and wonder who's got one. I've used a custom Wizard Cooling in my 240Z which I've been very pleased with. Here is Koyorad Part Number R022352 The Wizard Cooling radiator is here for comparison http://wizardcooling.com/1970-1973-datsun-240z It runs $499 plus shipping. I'm doing a turbo build and am considering the Koyrad for that. I ended up adding a two fan set-up to my 240Z with the Wizard radiator as I was taking it to the track and it seemed prudent.

Your situation looks similar to a fix we did. like you we elected to remove the old bent metal. We found a straight, rust free front clip then we welded and make the front area stronger than stock. it does require some welding skills

Please do a search on this topic. It's been covered 100's of time. http://forums.hybridz.org/topic/64241-short-nose-r230-and-r200-info-and-why/ With respect to the Q45 differential into a 240Z. This is what you need. http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=74&PHPSESSID=9e25b7fab3e9baf204ae3aa017e3d66f Enables installation of a late model viscous R200 short nose (Q45 or Z32), or Z32 R230, or the Nissan Armada R230 (2.94 ratio etc!) into your 1970-1978 Z car.

I've noticed some footer comments about various items you're selling. Do you have a web URL or other posting where these are showcased?

I have a 70amp from a 280ZX turbo and the adapter plug from MSA. I agree that the alternator needed to go. The battery was old and needed replacement. Swapping the alternator and battery was so much easier than going into the dash.

looks similar to mine, but mine are not vented. They're solid and four lug. Do you need a picture?

I did some digging around and another factor might be my dual electric fans and the aftermarket fuel pump in the rear of the car. I'm going to guess all that extra electrical gear is putting stress on the electrical system. I saw this in a Lotus forum: my tach which jumps around whenever the aftermarket electric fuel pump (which is powered off the coil) clicks on? I have a Twin Cam (with standard points, not the Luminition), and the problem is that the tach seems to "droop" for a split second. The frequency of the droop is proportional to the engine speed and throttle position. Therefore, at idle the tach will droop for a split second about every second or so (which corresponds to whenever the fuel pump clicks on). But at heavy throttle at around 4k and above, the tach droops so frequently that it basically never goes above about 3000 to 4000 rpm. So after reading this post about Luminition, my hypothesis is that the tach may also be confused by the current which gets diverted to the electric fuel pump. Any one else have a problem like this? I guess the obvious fix is to wire the fuel pump into some place else, so where does everyone suggest? Yep, not much doubt since the tach is current activated, not voltage activated. The easy fix for you is to drive the fuel pump (which draws a lot of pulsed current) with a relay (which will draw a negligible and constant current) actuated by the the line that presently drives the fuel pump, and drive the fuel pump through the relay to fresh solid wires from the battery (with an inline fuse, of course). A standard 30 Amp relay and socket can be had at a NAPA or Carquest place. The same is true for anything else that is attached to the ignition line. BTW, since this is a current path problem your problem should also be cured by attaching the fuel pump to the ignition wire on the 'upstream' side of the tach since the pump current would no longer be pulled through the tach sense loop. I'd recommend the relay as it will relieve the rest of the wiring (possibly the key switch) from the fuel pump load and increase reliability due to shorter power line runs for the pump. Seems to the same problem I have. Anyway ... we'll see if the new battery solves the issue first. Then I'll think about some things I likely need to do like get a more powerful alternator.

I'll swap the battery before I do anything else.

Did your tach bounce when you used the turn signal or brake? I guess an easy (relatively speaking) test is to swap out the tach. Not exactly what I wanted to do this weekend.

I have a MSD 6AL, Pertronix set-up with an aftermarket Mallory mechnical advance distributor. The tach on the car used to work just fine, now any electrical load causes the tach to bounce all over the place. Even without a load it bounces. You have to guess the RPM as someone in the middle of the 'bounce range'. When a load is applied (brakes or turn signal) the bounce is even more pronounced. The tach bounced in harmony with the turn signal. As the load is removed, it bounces up. Otherwise the car drives fine. While likely not related, the battery is dead. I figured this was due to inactivity over the Winter, but it now won't even take a charge. I'm going to run out and get a new battery today. It was a few years old (I think around 4 or 5). I know that Big Phil had a similar issue with is turbo car that seemed to happen when his car was cold. This still lingers when up to regular operating temp.

That's what I ended up getting from Silvermine. Packaged arrived complete with the 15/16 Master set-up. That in combination with the rear disc set-up should be good for the turbo build. Ryan is focused on is 240SX LS drift car at the moment.

I love the title of piece ... 'Engine Porn'. It's amazing what you can do when cost is tossed out of the equation. How much is that motor? Something like $25K? That engine falls under the 'if I won the lottery' list of things I would buy.

Did you get the whole set-up from Silvermine or did you piece them together including the spacers?

I actually have a small NAPCO barrel plating device. It has a motor and a small barrel with these 'danglers'. It will fit into one of the larger Caswell plating buckets. My goal is to set it up for yellow chromate but I have all these materials for actual triple chrome (copper, nickle, chrome). But like others have stated, the lethality of the chemicals and fumes have kept me from doing it. I've used Denver Metal Finishing for large batches. As long as I media blast and them tumble polish the parts, I get good results for a low price.

Ronin Motorsports in Colorado

Are you sending the cad plating out to a shop or do you have an in-house (i.e. Caswell) set-up? Is it really cad or yellow zinc chromate (copy-cad)?

I've seen that slotted dimpled rotors are common in Australia. I've yet to see dimpled rotors for the 240Z in the US.

I was curious to see people's opinions of the various options out there. I'm going with cross drilled discs and 280ZX rears and 4Runner 4x4 S-12 calipers with the 15/16" 280ZX master cylinder. Here are my options ... MSA Cross Drilled Rotors .... anyone know the manufacturer of MSA's offering? $220 http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/CTGY/PBC06 Centric $190 http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nissan-240Z-70-73-Performance-Drill-Slot-Brake-Rotors-Pads-Set-FRONT-KIT-/360593169447?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&fits=Model%3A240Z&hash=item53f5071c27&vxp=mtr Mountain Rotors - these are not slotted or cross drilled but can be had for around $50 each $100 http://www.partsgeek.com/mmparts/brake_rotors/nissan/240z.html You could (in theory) cross drill the mountain rotors in DIY fashion http://www.zcsd.org/tech-articles/crossdrill-rotors.php Reuse stock 240Z rotors, turned by PepBoys ($6 each) and then cross drilled DIY fashion (as above) .... $20 You'd need to factor in a few drill bits.

We use water-based paints in Europe. It's much harder to shoot. It seems the more lethal the paint with respect to VOCs, the easier it is to shoot. Sherwin Williams is actually one of the cheaper automotive paints and you can get good results. PPG tends to be better. I think it's more a matter of personal preference and what you're used to shooting. There is far more to painting a car than the top coat. Preparation is key. Also, I'd recommending renting a cross flow spray booth. Very reasonable and you'll get great results.

I didn't see you also wanted the vinyl replacement as well. If you want the most correct vinyl kit, then I would purchase them from Classic Datsun http://classicdatsun.com/new/240_interior.html It's $245 plus shipping. Not sure if they would be willing to combine their carpet kit (also $245) and the vinyl kit for a combo deal.

More pics added to the camber plate install ... see first post for the URL link to the photo book

I bought from Chester and Herods. Many of the kits are cut pile whereas the Chester and Herods kit looked identical to the loop nylon pile that was OEM to the 240Z. I was told (don't know if this is true) that Chester and Herods did the carpets for the Nissan Factory re-creation 240Zs. Price was reasonable and I bought directly from Chester and Herods. I don't think they have a web site. Really 'old school'. (760) 738-4296 or (760) 738-1931. I think the second number is for their carpet shop and the first is for interior pieces.

I found this example ... nice, but overkill for my application

We installed camber plates for coilovers, but it seems all strut tower braces are designed for stock mount points which go away when you install the weld-in plates. How have people handled this? Do you simply add-on attachment points for custom strut braces? Does anyone have any pictures of such an installation?

anyone got a pic of the mounted mustang grill?