denny411

They don`t make a convertor tape for the 8mm, Only the vhsc. I have both How bad could the tape really be? Just down a little liquid courage before hand, and give the play by play for Mom and Pop

I too checked them out today. (The women and the cars) Very Nice , but I didn`t dare bring the mag home with me .

That`s better than having to buy the whole Explorer like I did.

The decision to bore or not to bore should be made based on the condition of the cylinder,(ring ridge,taper,out of round,scoring) and not on finances. If the engine was a low milage engine with NO wear, then you could get by without boring. Especially if you plan to run forged pistons. Since they require more piston to cyl wall clearance. In either case I would still recomend using a rigid hone. If the cylinders have ANY wear, you would be better off putting in a good running used engine to get by until you have the cash to do a proper rebuild. Then sell the used engine to someone else in the same boat when you`re finished.

I get that feeling every time I work on anything. It`s an addictive feeling that drives me to try bigger and more elaborate projects.

If you are planning to run 400 or more HP, I would strongly recomend having the rotating assembly balanced. It`s a good idea on any engine, but as HP#`s climb it`s even more crucial.

WOW! only 92000mi in 6 yrs. I put that on in less than 2 yrs.

Very nice overall, but I have mixed feelings on the hood scoop. It just doesn`t seem to fit the lines of the car. Looks kinda out of place. I`d still drive it though.

Our local Advance Auto parts store stocks engine levelers.

Russ, Email the vin #`s to me, and I`ll check check them out. I may be interested in the car. You could just drop it at my house in Oxford. Or I could pick it up after the first of the year.

I would also recomend that you heat the garage and the car the night before, to insure thatthe car itself is up to tempurature. By the way, The industrial paint shop that I used to work at, used radiant tube heaters that hung from the ceiling.

Port matching from the head to the header is critical for peak performance. It`s not AS MUCH of an issue if the header is slightly larger, but smaller is terrible. Compare the flow of your exhaust to a river. If the header port is too small, the flow would be similiar to whitewater, If it`s too large it would be similiar to water flowing over a dam. Obviously the closer your header matches the head, the more efficient the flow will be. MY .02

I know it may not be practical for some, but I`m planning to use a natural gas forced air furnace. The same kind that is used in most homes. I got a real good deal on one from an old house trailer,(100,000btu for $10.00). For painting, I would recomend doubling up the filters and changing them often to avoid plugging up the heat exchanger.

Drill out the bottom of the knob if it`s too small.

I cut down a shifter for a friends toyota 4runner. I cut it towards the bottom, below the boot so the weld wouldn`t show. You will have to grind both cut ends to a blunt point, put the ends together and weld to fill in the "vally" to insure sufficient penetration. Start with just tacking it together, just in case the angle is off or uncomfortable. My friend has been bangin gears for about 4 years now with no problems at all.

I would start with a compression test. 1)Remove all spark plugs, 2)Block hold the throttle wide open, 3)Remove the air intake hose between the air flow meter an the throttle body, 4)Crank the engine through at least four compression strokes for each cylinder. Then check fuel pressure and fuel volume. If you find that either of these is low, I would recomend changing the fuel filter first. It is the cheapest and easiest, and could cause both conditions. It is also possible that the plugs or wires on cylinders in question could be at fault. Even if the plugs are new, they could have been dropped before installating which could break the resistor inside. Good luck

IMO, Everything looks better with a v8

The oven cleaner also works well for removing clear coat

It`s possible that the valves were adjusted too tight on the two cylinders in question. causing the valves to not seat completely. OR, It could have a blown head gasket and the guys trying to blow smoke up your rectum

For really corroded and oxidized wheels, I start with easy off oven cleaner and scrub them with a whitewall brush. This will remove almost anything except the aluminum. Then I picked up an assortment of cotton buffing pads at an industrial tool supply company. They fit on a die grinder. Then use them with a metal buffing compound that can be found at most hardware stores. It will take some time, but it will give give you nearly a mirror finish. Finish it off with a good mag polish and a coat off wax.

And I thought I was the only one who had to weld my bed frame rails

I`ve been looing into using imca style headers from Schoenfield. the headers of choice seem to be either sch162b or sch162. My idea is to use fenderwell style headers to reduce heat around the oil pan, transmission and starter. http://www.pitstopusa.com/SCHADJUSTABLEIMCAHEADERS.asp or http://www.pitstopusa.com/SCHIMCAHEADERS.asp The idea is to invert the headers and run them throught the inner fender behind the strut tower, but ahead of the master cylinder.

I`ve got some struts still on a 77 280 that may be of use to you. If mine are misaligned as well, I have a torch and a 20 ton shop press that might come in handy. Email or call me and maybe we can get together.

I also think the added cost of box tubing vs. channel is also a factor with trailer manufactureres.

The tubing could be lighter than the channel, but 3" channel really isn`t that heavy anyway. I can`t really say which would be stronger. Depending on what type of welder you have, the box would be thinner and easier to get penetration. The channel would be cheaper to buy than the box.