lowrider

Well, the project has kinda slowed down for the time being. Driving 100 miles round trip to school everyday is kinda draining my wallet, especialy since i currently dont have a job. Besides all this negativity i have managed to get a little bit of stuff done! I mounted my fmu. I decided to mount it on the side of the head where the mechanical fuel pump goes. I also mocked up my intake on the spare motor so i could get a good idea of clearances. I modified the inlet for my turbo so i could attach my braided -4 line. I painted my hotside and down pipe, yet i dont have any pictures of this. anyways, here are some pictures for the time being:

We also got some snow here in Knoxville. Its times like these that im glad i have a 4 wheeler! Unfortunately the two Zs' were sitting outside the shop...so they saw the wrath of the blizzard of 2010! lol How much did you end up getting in Nashville? We got around 4-5 inches here.

A BRE spoiler will really set off the rear end of your car jared!

Thats funny! I actually picked up my 260z in Maryville as well.

Do you have an air compressor? I used the gear oil bottle, and found a good length of hose the went to the bottom of the bottle. Then cut the top just enough to slide the tube in through. Added liberal amounts of duct tape to seal said hose to the cap on the bottle. Then poked a hole near the top to put the blower fitting for my air compressor in. Pressurize the bottle with some compressed air and the fluid should come out of the hose. Simple and easy!

I can see where your coming from, but the line is far from the ground and is hugging the bottom of my tank. You cant even see the line unless your laying on the ground looking for it. The way i see it, its basicly the same as using a sump with exposed lines. As for the Inspector, here in "good ole" Tennessee you can get away with about anything. You would be supprised what is on the roads around where i live! Ive put about 2000 miles on the car with this setup and no problems so far. It still gets fuel around the curvies with a half of a tank, so overall im satisfied

A few new pictures for everyone! The turbo is happily hanging from the mock up motor. I then made a wastegate bracket, and adjustable wastegate arm. I got an intercooler off of ebay, i made the mounts for it and am using it as a cold air intake till i has teh boost. Everything is moving along pretty smoothly, i have then oil lines and tee fitting. Still quite a bit left, but im making progress!

I know im bringing this back from the dead but i figured i would tell my findings for future reference. The car has been on the road for roughly a month, instead of putting the efi on the L26, i rebuilt and put in the L28. So i finally did firgure out all the wiring eventualy! The first connector in my original post turned out to be the tach signal input... found that out after i had the motor in and it wouldnt fire. lol The two prong conector with a White/red wire and a Red/black wire, wasnt used. Per my last post, the wiring for the 4 prong plug was correct! Well thats all i have to report, that should take care of the basic wiring to swap the NA EFI wiring harness into the S30.

Well, i swaped the engine and fuel injection from a 83 na car. I hooked my wideband up, and the light on the ecu only comes on at around 14.5 and higher AFR's. I though my o2 sensor was bad because the ecu light wasnt flashing at idle. It turned out that when the light wasnt flashing at idle was because it was'nt fluctuating at 14.50-14.00 at idle, I was running at 13.80. Although my light was'nt flashing, the AFR's are perfect! If the NA, and Turbo ecu's think alike i dont know... I would sugest getting an wideband setup, Its worth every penny in my opinion.

You can test the sensor by sliding the rubber boot off of the conection. Then use a voltmeter to check the voltage coming off of the sensor. At idle the voltage should be around .6 volts.

Oh, im sorry! I must have went brain dead for a second. Simple mistake of reading but not fully comprehending! Marvel Mystery Oil is some amazing stuff! you could try soaking them in it?

What i did was take the cables out of the car, and remove the sheath from the inner cable. Then go over the inner cable and make sure that it wasnt bent and if it was try my best to straighten it out. Then put the cable back into the sheath with a light coating of grease. Make sure that it doesnt bind, and put it in the car! problem solved!

The seats and carpet look great!!! the seats look like they were made for the car! Your carpet piece goes behind the seats, with the narrower part going under the seat. Its hard to explain, especialy without a visual aid.

Im sure its not that big of a deal either, im running a sunpro tach and it works both with and without the resistor.

I actually know this one!!!! Zmanco, like the 75-78 the 260z's tach is voltage triggered. There is a resistor in the line running off of the negative side of the coil. The resistor is housed in a fuseable link case in the passenger side footwell. Racer88, the resistor is a 2.2k ohm resistor! just got finished replacing mine for one out of a 280zx.

Man, its been a long time since ive updated. Ive put some miles on the new motor and trans, its the best upgrade ive made to the car up untill this point! No more finnicky cold starts, the 5speed feels excelent! im extremely happy! Now the quest for more power begins! Ive decided to begin down the long slippery slope of turbocharging my L28. Ive already started to accumulate parts! I picked up a z31 T3 with the water cooled center, and im awaiting an exhaust manifold from flatblack280. When i have both of them at the same place im going to start mocking up my oil and water lines on my spare motor. Im so excited to turbo this beast! I hear it really wakes it up. I plan on using the na fuel injection for now. Im pretty sure ive made a list of all the big stuff i need to wrap the turbo swap up: 8:1 FMU T3 turbo Exhaust manifold Turbo oil pump 24x12x3 Ebay Intercooler 2.5" Stainless tubing Silicon couplers Clamps BOV Oil/Coolant lines Drill and tap oil return in pan Lock out mech advance on the distributor After all that and a few odds and ends i should be good to go! Im planing on running about 5-7 psi at first so i can get the hang of tuning it! Have i mentioned that im excited?!? lol till next time, see ya

Hey before investing in another "Z" wiper motor i would give a Honda one a serious thought. I made the swap and havent looked back. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=82292&highlight=honda+wiper+motor

Well, i went head first into the biggest task yet. After accumalating parts for the last month, i finally had enough parts to do the L28/5 speed swap. Dropped the exhaust, drive shaft, and trans. The slush box on the floor... Whoo, no more automatic! Next on the list was to 8-6 the L26. Out with the old, In with the new. Its just a shell... Well i got the L28 in along with the 5speed, unfortunately i wasnt too worried about taking pictures as i wrestled them in, and buttoned everything up. lol I have some wiring left then put the driveshaft in and put in some fluids, and modify the exhaust and i should be on the road again! Swaping a motor in 12hrs by yourself isnt too bad is it?

I'm in the process of doing the same thing. The hard tank pickup line on the 260z is to small to attach to the inlet on the fuel pump. You could swap a 75/76 and get the bigger feed line, or I'm going to use a 90 degree fitting with the appropriate sized barb in place of the drain plug.

Update time! I rounded up all the parts for the R200 swap. A Rt mount, gm poly trans bushing, R200 mustashe bar, poly mustashe bar bushings, and some blood sweat and curse words. I figured that the swap would take no more than a couple hours to complete... WRONG! It took up the majority of the weekend to finish. The removal of the R180 went pretty smooth. Then i hit the first signs of resistance when i tried to fit the RT mount that i had made. It was truely my mistake because i fudged the dimensions a little with the top piece. After a little grinding, curseing, and using the BFH i got it in! next up was the mustashe bar, installed the bushings and found out that it wasnt going to fit with the bushings in, so i had to remove the cross bar that connects the rear of the control arm mounts. After that it fit like a glove. Got the rearend hoisted up and hanging by its mounts. Next came the task of shortening the driver's half shaft. I used Lazeum's method ( http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145643 ) for the exception of using a cutting disk to cut the 1/2in off of the shaft. I then drilled, and taped a hole so i could utilize a bolt and the star washer to retain the balls and spacers. I put a spot weld at the begining of the groves to hold the balls and spacers from coming out of the grooves when fully extended. After i reassembled the halfshaft I finished up tightening and installing all the goodies i had removed. Put some fresh gear oil in the differential and took her for a test drive. Its a night and day difference between the 3.54 and the 3.90. Its alot pepier and torquier in the bottom end. Overall not bad for a weekends work. Unfortuately i didnt take any pictures of the process, i figured there was more than enough info on here if anyone wanted to see how it was done. Well thats all for this time, i might try and put up a video of me running through the gears tomorrow or the next day, till next time keep your gown down and powder dry....

I guess ill update, not much has happened since i got the motor back together. My dad herniated one of his disks and ive been running around doing errands and keeping up the house hold for him. I have managed to clean up and paint the r200 that is going in the 260z. I managed to get all the parts for the r200 swap i just need to get a day to get everything in. I do leave you with this! I got bored the other night and though why not take a clip of how my exhaust sounds? Anyway, without further adoo the exhaust clip:

I have engine build pictures!!! Although it was more of a freshing up than a build. I decided not to mess with the bottom end because of the lack of funds. The cylinder walls looked good, and the rings proved suficient with a leak down test. So, as said before the head was sent off to get trued up and get a valve job. While away i painted the block: After i got finished painting i realized that i would have to remove the front cover to replace the timing chain. A big Doh on my part, oh well. Took the cover off and stripped the paint. Then gave it a nice polishing with a wire wheel. I broke out the calipers on the replacement cam that was originaly on the head and came to the conclusion it had less lift and duration than a stock "A" cam. So i swaped the cam from the spare motor i have. The spare motor that got its cam, rockers, and lashpads robbed. The painted timing cover. Head finally installed with the timing chain replaced. Whoo front cover on, and mostly put back together! I was getting excited, so i sat the valve cover on and loosely hung the intake. Everything hooked up and ready to go!

I just got finished swaping a 280z shifter into my zx trans. I replaced the bushings with the Help brass door pin bushings. The difference is amazing! it shifts so nice now with alot, i mean alot less slop!

Ive got a set. They are the 14" wheel ones. I bought them new, put them on and my tierod end hit on my wheels. Took them off and are still in box. Ill take $50 shipped for them.

Haha, you had me going... I though i was going crazy, i knew you have NY plastered as your location!