lowrider

I also had an awesome time! The event seems to just grow and grow each year. Nothing better than to drive the awesome roads and gawk at awesome cars! It was good meeting you as well!

Thats good to hear! Atleast you know that all the rings and tops of the pistons are in place!

I swear if I have to remove the diff in this car one more time, I'm going to go crazy!!! It all started when I smelled something burning when I would slow down after some boost runs. Checked oil, all was well. Put the car on the lift and it was obvious that the rearend was some how leaking gear oil on the exhaust. I got out the handy dandy flash light to find that my rear cover gasket was pushed out on the drivers side of the diff allowing it to drip down and leak. UGH!!! This makes the 3rd time that i have taken the diff out and put it back in! After i got it out, the root of the problem was the vent somehow got clogged and built up presure inside the diff forcing the gasket out so the air could escape. Pulled the vent out, and put the vent from the R180 in the cover, reinstalled, and called it a night. The whole up side to the ordeal was that the diff was a piece of cake to remove with the RT mount! My 3" exhaust sitting outside the shop Ron Tyler mount goodness! Out and ready for the rear cover Rear cover with new vent

I followed suit and joined too!

I used the search function (imagine that!) and found a few threads mentioning porting the wastegate port. I figure ill give it a try when i get some extra funds and replace my exhaust manifold gasket. Untill then I plan on just keeping a close eye on the boost gauge. I actually made a Manuel boost controler and increased my boost to 9 psi, and the creep was'nt as prominate as before, Imagine that!

I finally decided to tackle what little rust was in the car. I only had a few place in the floor pans that needed replacing. I did'nt think it warrented replacing the entire floor pans, so i made patches to put in. I think that the patch venture went well. I cut out the cancer with an air saw, and formed some patches out of some spare metal around the shop. I sprayed rust converter on all the surface rust, tack welded around all the patches, then went underneath seam sealed, undercoated the new patches, then painted the inside with some black enamel to seal them up. Pictures!

Its unfortunate that the Flat top took a dive! But i guess thats just an excuse to upgrade right?

Thats interesting... I knew I coud'nt be the only one experiencing this! I did have a bolt loose on my wastegate actuator but i tightened it before testing the gauge. What im wondering is if the boost is raised if the creep will increase as well. Hmmmm...

Im running a 3" crush bent from the z31 downpipe back.

Hey everyone, It seems like i have a little bit of boost creep... I just finished up my turbo swap about a month ago. Im using the NA F54 block, with z31 t3, and the stock NA ecu. I havent had a boost gauge when i first got the motor running and semi tuned. Today i borrowed a boost gauge from a friend just to see what boost the car was running. It seems like i have a problem with boost creap in 3rd and 4th gear. As soon as i build boost in 3rd the needle imediatly goes to 7 psi, Then as i get higher in my rpm range it steadily goes to 10 psi. When i stift it drops down a bit, but then goes right back to 10-12 psi. This kinda baffles me since it is the same trim as a stock 280zx's turbo and it still uses the factory wastegate. Anyone care to shed some light on my situation?

I am running my turbo setup with the mechanical advance welded up and 10 degrees advance at idle. I still have my vacume advanced hooked up so that it does advance some when im not on boost. I havent encountered detonation yet, and it feels like i could advance the timing to 15 degrees with no ill effect. But you have to take my advice with a large grain of salt (more like a rock) because this is my first turbo set up as well and i am just running 8 psi of boost... Hopefuly someone with a ton of experience chimes in.

indeed it is! I copied the idea from a member here named ktm. It allowed me to keep the mechanical fan, along with cooling the hot pipe a little bit because of air exposure from under the car.

I would think that it wouldnt be more than the O2 sensor could trim out. But ofcourse ive never messed with a turbo ecu.

double post

If your running the turbo ecu then you wouldnt have to. The factory turbo injectors are right around 265cc.

I had a problem with mine leaking there a while back. I ended up removing it from the tank and pinching the post from the inside and the out with a pair of vice grips to get it tight against the seal again. Worked like a charm and has'nt leaked since.

It ran rich at first, after tweeking the afm wheel a little bit i was able to get it just right. Im maintaining 14.2 AFRs cruzing and around 12.5 under boost. Im no longer using my FMU to provide extra fueling, i made a circuit that introduces a potientometer into the head temp sensor feed at 7psi to increase my duty cycle. So far so good the injectors are doing their job without a hitch.

I ended up searching on here about loud fuel pumps. Found a thread that mentioned a walbro 225 screaming its guts off and restricting fuel. The solution to the thread was to run a pusher pump to the efi pump. I gave it a try, only i ran two efi pumps in series. It solved my volume problem, along with quieting the pump down. Two birds with one stone!! I made a relay up to trick my ecu into delivering extra fuel under boost. I utilized a hobbs switch, a relay, a potientometer, and a crazy idea! The hobbs switch activated the realy, the relay in turn switches the resistance from reading off of head temp sensor, to reading the potientometer(which is adjusted to fool the ecu into thinking the motor is cold). The idea came to me like one of those windows 7 comercials! The circuit works amazingly! I have some more pictures of the engine bay pretty much buttoned up: some of the car:

It should be fine as long as your not trying to jack the front of the car off the ground with it!

I dont see why you couldnt. I use a ratchet strap connected to the inner fender of either side of the car, and ran under the oil pan. That i dont know, i personally have never tried it.

3. When i removed mine, i used a slide hammer with a washer small enough to fit through and behind the pilot bearing. Then I proceeded to pull it out using the slide hammer. 4. It isnt too difficult to put one in with the motor in car. I put a clutch in my car in just under 2 hours, ofcourse i was using a lift but it shouldnt be much more difficult with it on jackstands. 5. Indeed you do, or else it will be the death of your motor mounts!

This is how the car looks with the springs backwards... I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but if the front only lowered a 1/4 inch then you have them installed backwards. As odd as it sounds, the length of the spring doesnt determine the spring rate. The progressive portion of the longer springs has less of a spring rate then the shorter of the two. stock springs: correctly installed Eibach:

When i did mine on my early 260, i put the longer ones in the back the first time around. The rear was on the bumpstops, while the front was close to stock maybe a little lower. I changed them around, and problem solved. When i called MSA, the guy stated that the .001 went on the front.

Your welcome! Dont forget to post pictures of the car after you get the springs on.