lowrider

From what I've gathered is that the biggest difference between the 240 and 280 strut tube is the diameter of the tube itself. I know that the 240z strut tube is 2" in diameter, so I would suggest measuring the diameter of the tubes to find out.

For clarification, I'm using tunerstudio with my ms2 extra and it also uses the IGN load%. With my setup using the map sensor only the IGN load% corresponds to the map reading, the same with the fuel table.

Oh you know it! I'm just waiting for the other 5 liners to fall out to increase the flow sone more. Thanks rolla for the kind words! I'll sell you some but it doesn't come cheap! It's a project on a college students budget, so it takes a while to come together. Lol Eventually I'm going to paint it however it's going back to factory brown Lol

I did a quick walk-around, nothing special. Don't mind the wooden BOV adapter plate, I made it to test a friend's Blitz.

Hello, Hello! Update time! I had bought a Apexi turbo timer off of eBay, and finally received it from Hongkong. Install went fairly smoothly, I disliked the idea of splicing the ignition switch to install the timer so I raided a few late 70's pickups in the local pull-a-part for some connectors that I could make an adapter harness out of. Made the harness, and mounted the control unit in front of the map light. I ran into a problem with the ignition switch engaging the starter. I did some searching and ran across this thread: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/84673-ignition-switch-starting-circuit-turbo-timer-install/page__pid__932223#entry932223 . I ended up installing a relay that cut the wire to the starter while the turbo timer was running, the details can be found at the thread I just linked. None the less, on to pictures. Other than that, I think I've found a solution to the boost creep! a 34mm internal wastegate flapper! A mere $30 and boost creep be gone, but I need the funds to buy it. lol However Its a more cost effective solution than going external. Till next time...

I realize that this thread is old, but I feel as if I can finally put this to bed since no one posted the final solution. A little background, I bought an Apexi turbo timer off of eBay. I made my own adapter harness that plugged into the Ignition switch and the factory ignition plug. The adapter harness then had a plug for the turbo timer harness spliced into it. I originally installed the Turbo timer like so: turbo timer-------------ign harness red wire ------------- 12v constant green wire ------------- 12v ign on blue wire ------------- 12v acc I came across the problem of the starter engaging when turning the ign switch to the lock position. I did some searching and found this thread. I took some of the ideas in the thread and applied them to fix the problem. To solve the grinding issue I removed the acc power wire and used it to power a relay that cut the connection to the starter while the turbo timer was running. No more grinding! Forgive the paint drawing, but this is how the revised wiring ended up. A picture of the adapter harness with the relay installed. Again, I thought I would assist and put the final touch on the thread.

The return from the fuel pressure regulator needs to go back to the surge tank, then a line on the top of the surge tank goes back to the fuel tank, for over-flow. Like so: I neglected to include filters before the fuel pumps, but the lines are correct.

A month later... And the motor is still alive! Shocking given my track record! During the short period of time that the weather was nice, I daily drove the car. The cruise and part throttle ve tables are spot on. I still have the timing roughed in and very conservative. I had the chance to tune the positive pressure region too, but I don't exactly have it dialed in. The car was pulling 23mpg on dd duty including some on boost pulls. I couldn't be happier! Otherwise I haven't made much headway on the car. I did fab up a "cold air" intake that draws from the driver side brake duct in the front valence. Other than that I have been doing a few odd jobs for nate_82zx. I shaved a non webbed n42, along with put some finishing touches on a fuel rail extrusion for him, pretty uneventful. The z currently awaits better weather so I can drive the darn thing! "cold air" intake Nate's intake fuel rail

Props on the sweet score! I'm using a WH1c on my 260. The only difference being its internally gated and has the 12cm^2 exhaust housing. I would be concerned about spooling that monster! I don't get full boost until around 3500-4000 rpms and like I said thats with the 12cm^2 housing!

Great! It's the simple mistakes that always get ya! Im not sure why mine needs the two Zener diodes...But It works so I'm not fooling with it.

I just looked, and I infact have the two 1N4742A's, no resistor. My tach is a litte jumpy when it first starts, but reving and holding rpm it's rock steady.

See if that does anything. I will go out into the shop and check and see how I wired everything together.

I'm pretty sure you would still have the same problem with a "real tach". When I was trouble-shooting mine, I took my spare sunpro mini tach and attached it to the factory wiring via an old tach plug. It was unreponsive when the wires were connected. It worked when you held them apart in your fingers, just like the stock piece. I think its more of a signal thing. Like I said in the other thread, i eventually found some combination of components that finally made it work.

I had the same problem when I was hooking my tach up. It would respond when I bridged them with my finger. My memory is completely shot, and I dont remember all of the details of how I made it work. I did however follow the instructions in the mega manual, for the exception of the zener diode. Radioshack didn't carry the 16v zener diode that the instructions called for. Instead I used two 1N4742A zener diodes inline after the merge of the three diodes coming off of the coils' negative. Im thinking that I also placed a resistor in the circuit, but I cant remember for sure. I guess I could unwrap my wiring and find out. edit* By no means am I electricaly savy I just started putting stuff together and It worked. How it worked is beyond me!

I would think it a bad idea to seal the basement totally. The force of the water would put a lot of stress on the footings, essentially making it a "house boat" or one would atleast think so. Either way, Its no fun wading in coldddd water during winter/spring time!

That thing is massive! I've been thinking of fabricating my own intake manifold as of lately. I saw an "RB25" plenum on eBay, but just couldn't bring myself to pay that much for something I could make. I'm glad you posted this, really solidifies the decision to not buy the RB plenum.

I live in Knoxville. Not exactly middle TN. lol What would you need help with?

It honestly depends on the color. But, the stumbling/missing issue is most likely attributed to the heat-soaked injectors.

The rear bumper was not rubber. lol from what I remember it was u-stock, that was welded into a rear bumper and painted.

What kind of intake are you running? I have a problem with my non-webbed n42 heat soaking my injectors after I drive around on boost. When I go to start it, it doesn't seem like its running on all 6 until I run some fuel through to cool them down, then runs just like normal.

lol I kinda cheated! He used to live close to Knoxville, and I've seen the car a few times. I just so happened to remember that he moved to Texas. The Tennessee plate was the icing on the cake!

This happen to be it? http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/95322-agreed-value-whats-it-worth/page__p__896763#entry896763

Well, my AFR's are really rich. Its a consistent 10-10.5:1 up till 12 psi, hits a really rich spot of around 9.5:1, then goes back to 10:1. I haven't gotten to tuning up top yet, so far I have been dialing in my cruse, and IAT corrections. Hopefully I will have a chance to get the positive pressure region tuned by the weekend.

I forgot to update! My-bad! I went through the n42 removed the main and rod bearings on 1&6. The bearings looked new, I plastigauged them and both ends came within spec! everything else was a matter of swapping parts from one motor to the other. I replaced the timing chain and sat the p79 head on, and everything just fell together from there! I ported the wastegate on the holset more; to the point where it will barely seal. Out of curiosity I took the piston out of number 6 on the flat top motor. The compression ring fell apart in my hand... So it wasn't a ringland! I got the motor back in the car with help from nate_82zx. The next day she was running! Started tuning the following day. The port job helped, but the holset still has boost creep. I'm going to end up going with an external wastegate, hopefully sometime during the summer. Any-who, I got a full day of tuning in, before the weather took a dump on me. Then all of a sudden spring came! This week has been beautiful and I've been taking full advantage! I just about have the car's ve-table tuned with a rough timing-table. It pulls like a mule at 15psi! The lower compression is noticeable, you can definitely tell when your off boot. And so I don't leave you hanging, I know how boring these post are without pictures. lol

Here is my 260's engine bay: