lowrider

Thanks! I’m definitely going to make one! I don’t really want to have any more broken pistons... they are just an inconvenience. Thanks for the links as well! Thanks. lol You should! Once you feel that turbo power the NA just wont cut it! And just for an update, Im going through the n42 long block that I have, in prep to accept the p79, holset, and all of the other goodies.

Next on the agenda I needed timing control with this holset, so I figured I would hook up an 8 pin gm hei to hold me off until I went edis. But low and behold, Im apparently inept of wiring the output mods for the hei with ms2 extra. So I finnaly bit the bullet and picked up the trigger wheel from an escort, the vr sensor, and the module from an explorer. I took the dampener off of my L26 and chucked it up in the lathe, Took down the front pulley. Fit it to a .005 interference fit with the trigger wheel. I Then made a bracket to fit the vr sensor. Turned out well, I mounted the module infront of the battery. The coil was mounted on the firewall next to the battery. It turned out really clean. And a video of the car at 15psi: I was short shifting at around 4500 to avoid boost creep passed 15psi. But as in the words of bigphil "my car's name is trouble". I destroyed another flat-top piston at 16psi... But up until then, It ran like a scolded dog! I had been tuning with the new holset and my edis system. My ignition map is really conservative and AFR’s spot on. I didn’t hear any detonation; of course It doesn’t mean it wasn’t there. The only indication that something was wrong was a little bit of a miss at idle and a few puffs of blue smoke (which I thought was my turbo’s oil seal).I limped it home, and the compression test told all; 120 psi across the board except for number 6, which was a meager 45 psi. Added some oil to the cylinder and retried, got 90 psi. I’m thinking the ring lands broke again. Im considering swapping in the N42 that I have in the shed, topped with my p79 head for the time being so It will be a little more forgiving at pressure. Next plan of action: I have an N42/N47 motor sitting in the shed that came out of a running 280z. If the leak down test proves it to still be good, I’m going to put my p79 on the N42 and slap it in the car for the time being.

This is the T3 correct? When I disassembled mine It didnt have one.

Im not sure about the Hx but My WH1C had a v-band on the outlet of the compressor housing. It had a 90 degree elbow that attached to it that's outlet was 3". I removed the V-band lip with my band saw, Then slipped the coupler on. Worked like a charm.

Thank you! Yea, The green was an act of rebellion. lol I didnt want an average color like black or gray, thus the olive drab green!

Long time no update! I’ve been busy with school and such up until winter break. I had picked up a Holset on my last update. I finally started digging into installing a few go fast goodies! I started by removing a non egr, non webbed n42 manifold off of one of the datsuns my dad owns. Part of the deal was that I replace the removed intake manifold, not a bad price if I do say so myself! Next up was to smooth that sucker out! The plan was to go completely smooth and to powder coat the finished product. I gained a respect for the people that completely shave these manifolds. I put a ton of work into this thing! I welded up all of the holes after shaving the raised bosses, ported it for my Webber throttle body and sandblasted it. ^^^^^ The glorious powder coated under shot to show all of the vacuum ports. 42# hr low impedance injectors Holset in comparison to the stock t3 Intake off and turbo removed Test fitting the holset… spacer needed. Yours truly holding the massive beast. Wrapping the exhaust manifold. ^^ yours truly on the right and my good friend on the left. I couldn’t help putting the unfinished intake on with the exhaust and the turbo. Welding up a crack in my thermostat housing before powder coat Getting the turbine housing loose, That thing did not want to move so I brought out the muscle. Turbo bolted up for good. It required a ½ in spacer. The Intake in all of its beauty. Also notice the polished Webber throttle body! Doing work! MMMMmmmm Configuring megasquirt to play with the new injectors Well, I got It running. I haven’t set up the timing control yet. I took it down the road and was dumb founded with how fast boost came on! But unfortunately I had a problem with controlling boost… It wanted to over-boost ridiculously, I’m talking wanting to pass up 20 psi and keep going. I however caught it before it got there I didn’t let it passed 15psi. I guess retarding the timing the first time out was a good idea. ïŠ So I needed some control over the boost… so off came the turbo for a little port work. I opened up the wastegate a lot, but didn’t get pictures of the final product. For extra insurance I took the divider out all the way to the wastegate hole so It would bypass from both sides. I’m sure glad I did after I got everything back together. Even after All of the porting, it creeps just a little bit. I’m using a 7psi waste gate and it holds until 4000 then it starts creeping slowly going to 15 psi but I haven’t pushed it until I can control the timing with mega squirt. I should have some more info in the next few days, first impressions and alot of tuning! I cant wait! Ill also post pictures of everything together and working here soon as well.

Matt, I have a quick question. What signal does the ecu send to the HEI module to tell it to advance the timing? Im not sure if my ecu is sending the signal and I would like to verify my hunch that it isnt recieving it. Thanks everyone!

Im running the BG 2.890 firmware. My MS2 originally came with the BG 2.1.0d firmware but It corrupted and the 2.890 was the newest of the firmware in the megasquirt downloader file... so I reflashed the ecu with it instead since I was in a hurry.

Well, I started the car with the Vref disconnected and had tunerstudio open. I noticed my tps going crazy with varing values from 1% to 16% very sparadicly. Maybe this is related to my wiring. When I T-ed off of the Vref going to the tps, along with T-ing off of the ground TPSret for the ground to the module. Was I correct in doing this? Or does the HEI need seperate wires ran to it? Maybe someone can chime in?

Thanks for all of the replies! I just went back out to the garage to test all of the sugestions. The car runs at 10 degrees btdc with the Vref disconnected. I checked the voltage of Vref at the connector with a reading of 4.94 volts. I adjusted the trigger offset to 10 degrees as Matt suggested. I started the car with Vref disconnected let the car warm up a bit, then connected the Vref lead. The car died instantly. Im going bald!

Well, I finally took the plunge to control spark. I decided on using an 8-pin GM HEI and a welded up 280zx dizzy. I followed the wiring diagrams that are covered in the HEI section of the mega-manual and the tutorial here: http://www.diyautotune.com/tech_articles/megasquirt-carb-to-efi-part2-nova.htm . I’m using a MegaSquirt-II v3.57 ECU and the HEI mod kit available from diy autotune. I installed the mod kit per the instructions on the above tutorial. The Four pin connector wired as such G--TPSret B--Vref R--Tach E--S5 VR input wired as such P--green VR wire N--red VR wire The Two pin connector wired as such +--Positive post on the coil C--Negative post on the coil I successfully have the car running with the Vref disconnected from the module. Tach signal is good, strong spark the problem comes when I connect Vref to the HEI. When I go to connect the Vref as such to give the HEI module 5 volts and the megasquirt to control timing it fails to give spark and a tach signal. It just decides that it no longer wants to cooperate. I changed the ignition settings in tunerstudio to the following as instructed in the tutorial. •Ignition Input Capture: Falling Edge •Cranking Trigger: Trigger Rise •Coil Charging Scheme: Standard Coil Charge •Spark Output: Going High (Inverted) I have tried 3 different modules to no avail. I’m sorry for such a long winded post; I'm just pulling my hair out with frustration! Any help would be greatly appreciated!!

I removed the intake manifold off of one of my dad's 280Zs started shaving it, getting ready to powdercoat it and install it along with my holset.

Hey, I met you on the dragon a few months back. The car sounds mean! It looks extremely clean, nice job!

Ok, I'll bite! My name is Andrew but most call me "milky" because of the pronounciation of my last name. Im 20, and Im currently enrolled at the University of Tennessee studying Mechanical Engineering. I have a middle management position at a local waterpark(unrelated to my major, I know). I have been around cars for since I was able to walk! My involvement in Z-cars was sparked after I started looking around for my first car at the tender age of 15. I began searching 350z's, then stumbled across the picture of an early model Z with the type 3 body kit on MSA's website. I researched the car more and fell in love! I got my first 260Z at 16, swapped a v8 and had a ton of fun! I wrecked the first one and some time later I nabbed my current 260Z from the original owner. That was 2 years ago, how time flies when your spending copious amounts of cash on a car! Anyways, thats pretty much my story!

I created my fuel only harness in a few days. Keep in mind, I'm nowhere close to being electronics friendly! I bought the wiring bundle, 7 injector connectors, the relay board, and a butt load of heatshrink. It wasn't all that difficult, connect your 15' lengths of labled wire to the associated sensors and bundle them together. Figure out where you want to mount the ecu and relay board, route your wires how you like and cut to length. Then its a matter of attaching the various wires to the sockets on the reay board. I assume it would be a little more difficult if you were to make up your own relay harness. I took the easy way out and I'm glad I did!

Nice Autocad wiring diagram! Believe it or not, I used to work for TVA converting "paper" wiring diagrams into Autocad format. You did a real nice job, and i cant wait for more progress!

I've daily driven the car for close to a year, for the exception of some winter weather driving.

I did something similar. I mounted my boost guage in the clock housing. You need a 2 5/8 guage for it to fit cleanly without a gap around it. I wound up using the face of the stock guage and put my guage behind it. It looks almost factory!

Thats the plan! I have a lead on some 480cc injectors for cheap that im pursuing! I intend on grabing an N42 non-webed, non-egr intake off of one of my dad's cars. Shave all of the bosses, powdercoat, gasket match, and port it for my weber throttle body. Then slap it on when I do the turbo!

I've been on a parts buying spree!! Two turbo and a fuel rail later seems the only thing im missing are larger injectors. Bought a T04B with the intent of putting it's compressor housing on my t3's exhaust side. Turns out after looking at the map that it was into the surgeline. Roughly a week later I was calling the local wrecking yards for a holset... Found an WH1C for next to nothing! Its map is the equlivelant of the early HX35 so it should play nicely with everything else. I bought a pallnet fuel rail off of Rossman, and installed it yesterday along with cleaning all of the stuff off of my intake manifold. It makes for a nice clean setup. T04B: Holset: Megasquirt:

They do look like Riken, same markings and everything.

I do now! lol I'll try my best to make it! What time is it starting? I can't wait to see this awesome car!

The car is beautiful! It's sad that you put all that money into the car and have to turn around and sell it, Although I do understand the circumstances. Is there any chance I might get to see the car before you sell it? I would love to see such craftsmanship up close!