rturbo 930

Looking really nice. I like the gold/green combo.

If/when you build the cage to mount it, IIRC there is a "right" and "wrong" way of doing so. Most I've seen have two of the bars welded to the rear subframe. Having these two bars horizontal to the rear of the car I think is the "right" way, and having them perpendicular I believe is the "wrong" way. I think the reason is it provides a crumple zone in the event of a crash. Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will confirm/deny this, but I remember reading about this a few years back.

Looks like a nice piece! May have to pick one up when I have the funds.

If I'm assuming correctly that you're on a budget (correct me if I'm wrong) what I would do is paint it the original color (or another stock Datsun color), restore the interior to stock, and throw in an L28ET, which I expect will make enough power to satisfy you, relatively cheaply. I think the Watanabes you talked about would be appropriate if they will fit without flares. That's just me though. Ultimately it's your car and your decision.

I may catch flak for it on this forum, but if it's in decent condition, and especially if it's numbers matching, I would advise you keep it that way. That is a very early 240z.

Looks like a solid project. What's the VIN on it? Don't know if you know it, but that's an early car. Also impressed that you have some command of the English language, which seems to be rare amongst today's 15 year olds.

I can't find the other thread on this topic so I'm bumping this one. The previous solution to the problem has not had any effect that I can see. I would really like to see a good solution to this, as some pictures being posted are actually slowing down my computer, which was a pretty nice laptop in 2007. Thanks.

Could you resize those pictures? They are slowing down my computer, and it's no slouch.

I think Joel has it right that you have them switched. The flare continues farther after the last bolt hole on one end of it than the other, so there is a "long end" and a "short end". Looks like you have the shorter end on the front side. In dsommer's mock up pic, he has the long end on the front side, as does Justin. Hope that makes sense.

I saw that too. Looks like it goes in too far in the rear.

There is already such a product. I don't know who makes them, but I think you can find them on ebay.

Yeah, that's the one.

We need some details on your purple turd.

I was gonna post my old '72 240z, but now I'm not gonna bother. Was the cowl removed, or did all of it rust away? Looks like the latter.

Janaka's 280Z

Could possibly go with an auto with paddle shifters installed? It would be a lot better than a regular auto.

Why are you set on a 9"+ wide rear wheel? An 8" wheel would allow you to rotate your tires, and avoid having to put on flares as well. As far as looks go, I don't think you'd miss the extra inch. This is S30TRBO's 240Z with I think either 8" or 8.5" wide Watanabes.

Honestly, I don't think a fuel cell is the solution to your problem. From what I've read, fuel cells are best left to use on track/race cars.

Why does your father think you're going to blow up from getting rear ended in a Z with a stock tank? That doesn't make sense to me.

It's been a week. Relax.

I agree with Phar, just do 16x8 all around. S30TRBO (I think his username is, formerly 240ztt) has that setup I'm fairly certain, with no flares.

I'd do 307 blue. No flares.

You said your RPM reading was a little off. If I understand correctly, dynos measure torque, and then calculate HP. The high HP reading could be because your RPM was off. Someone can confirm/deny that.

Am I the only one that thinks the torque reading is a little low?

Mildly built RB25. A 700HP motor in that car makes absolutely no sense whatsoever. In addition to what was stated above, the chassis would likely need to be reinforced if the owner has any plans of making use of the power.