rturbo 930

IMO, you should pick one or two colors and powdercoat any parts in those two colors. Looks like you've got orange, red, a couple blues, and a mix of colors on the valve cover. It's just too much. If you've decided what color you're going to paint your car, you might use that as one of the colors, and black as the other color. That's probably what I'd do.

Indeed. Though there are many here that want to preserve them, it seems there are also many that are willing to hack them up in a heart beat with no respect for the car, at least from what I've seen. I'm relatively new to Z cars still.

Exhaust is done, new tach is in, replaced my fan controller. Got a new driver's lower door hinge and RT diff mount + bump stop, but haven't installed either yet. Video:

Actually, I am quite happy that they left out the S30s. I don't see that kind of publicity being good for our Z cars.

Interesting, yet entertaining read. Kind of reminds me of myself, which might be why my 280Z doesn't run, and is not going to for a long, long time, since my dumb ass didn't label anything when taking it apart. The rest of the car looks good so I have one question. Why is the center console blue?

What made you pick that differential? Not knocking the choice, just curious what your reasoning was since there's quite a bit to choose from.

That really sucks. I hope your get your stuff back. I hate thieves.

Well, actually I don't have the money to waste, but what little I get can be wasted on cars. I'm also going to do the repairs myself, since I have most of the tools, and the time, but not the money. That should help cut down on costs a LOT. We'll see how that goes, and I haven't completely ruled out getting a new chassis. I wouldn't think of paying a shop to repair my car unless I was loaded. I'm also young enough that I don't have to worry too much about being really fincially responsible. *shrug* Different strokes for different folks. I would sure as hell get a California car if I were in my dad's position. He doesn't have enough time to finish up a simple throttle linkage on his Charger, much less repair rust and body work. I think it's been 2 years now since it last ran...

Have you considered that some of us don't mind? And I doubt my rust repair will be $5000. That's not to say that if I get another Z car I won't go find one in California, but I don't mind spending the money on my rusty chassis. If I wanted an investment, it sure as hell wouldn't have been a car of any kind. It's a toy. Besides, it gives me an opportunity to learn a few things. I understand the point you're trying to make, and I am aware that buying a rust free shell is much easier. If you don't have the time, and don't want whatever skills or knowledge that can be obtained from taking on a rust repair project (or already have done so), then I would have to agree with you. Sounds like that's your case. Also helps that you live in the land of rust free Datsuns.

Agreed. Some of us see our cars as far more than just a heap of metal.

What differential and axles are you planning on going with?

I can see the possibility of a lot of hate coming your way from the Mustang fanboys. Love it.

Well, as far as I know, some Zs, like the Fairlady Zs, didn't have a build date stamped anywhere on the car. I don't know if that's also true with european models as well. If there's no plate on the door jamb with a build date, it probably isn't on there. You might try checking your seatbelts if they're original. They should have a date on them somewhere. I know there's other markings that could tell you, but I think the seatbelts might be the easiest. However, the date on the seatbelt is not necessarily the build date of your car, but it should be close, if not the same.

If you imported a Z from the US, you can just check the plate in the door jamb.

Yeah, I'm not really sure what your goal is here. Why not just buy the part?

My doors have this problem (sticks out about 3/8" at the bottom)and have noticeable cracks/rust on the top of the door, about where the front of the windsheild frame meets the door. Do you know if there's a way to fix this, or is it best to get new doors?

Sounds like the coupe is your best bet. It's likely the most practical, with still impressive performance, it has a real trunk, and at only 1/~6500 in the world, it's definitely not something you see every day. I'd love to have one as well.

Unfortunately not everyone knows what they have.

tvgz28, do you have a 240Z or 280Z? IIRC the 280Z struts are just a hair larger, but I don't know if it's the ID, OD, or both.

Love the first shot.

I was home today so I took a few pics to show you guys what I'm dealing with. Pass. rocker, A pillar, and dogleg: Driver's side rocker, A pillar, and dogleg: Here's a couple of the firewall: Pass. side roof where the quarter window is: And last, the rust in the wheel well seam I was talking about. This is on the driver's side only. It was a bit hard to photograph, but I hope they show it well enough:

Absolutely stunning.

Put a space before the link or it won't show up as a hyperlink. http://s1096.photobucket.com/home/ozzzzz1/index

Rear end for sure, but I don't think the tranny mount does. At least I hope not, because I've seen what I consider to be some pretty damn pathetic tranny mounts installed in these cars. Also, as far as I know (which may be wrong), the engine does put a twisting force on those mounts. I don't recall which it is, but it pushes up on one mount and down on the other, which could end up twisting the frame rails, which is why it's common to see a cross member like John C sells. Or at least that's what I've gathered, someone else can confirm/deny that.

Couldn't agree more.