rturbo 930

If I had to do it all over again... Probably would've skipped the whole Z phase and gotten an E30, which was my first choice YEARS ago, and it's also what I finally have as of September. I bought the Z thinking I'd enjoy the metal work, body work, etc. What I found out is that I absolutely hate working on cars. There's a lot of bolt on support for E30s and they're easy to work on to boot. Works for me. And my favorite thing about it? Well, aside from the AC, heat, nice interior, EFI, and all that... It has no rust. None. I love it. If I had to do a Z again? I'd start with a solid, complete CA car, instead of going thru a bunch of rust buckets. Sooner or later, I'm going to be selling all my Z stuff. I'll probably end up with another Z at some point, but it's going to be a while. And I'll probably go with an RB25/26.

When I was putting my dash in my 240z, the column sagged probably 1-2 inches while I had it unbolted up top. That's why I asked. The firewall is known to be pretty flimsy in these cars, so like I said before, once you have it bolted to the dash, it should be fine.

Did you bolt the steering column to the bracket under the dash? Does it move up and down at all? If it does move, then it'll probably sort itself out once it is fully bolted in.

Hey Mark, if you don't have anything in mind, you might look here for some ideas, since he did more or less what you described. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/645045/1973-datsun-240z Not sure what page it's on, but it should be closer to the end than the beginning.

Depends on the year. Late 280z, yes, the latches are different. Early 280z doors are a lot like 240z doors, enough so that they'll bolt up. I've got doors from a '76 on my '71, and they fit fine.

I'm only 21, so obviously I haven't, but the car that got me into Zs is still sitting in my parents barn - a 1978 280Z, bought in 1980 for my mom after her car was stolen from the airport.

Mine used to look like that. I simply replaced the bushings. Problem solved!

So I take it you've eliminated the usual Datsun rust issues? Nice work!

I don't think he wants his prized possession to have a salvage title.

I believe 20 is what the stock sheetmetal is, so I'd use that.

I kind of want to see your car sandblasted, just to see how bad it is. It's sorta laughable already.

Hmm, my dad has historic plates on his Charger, and apparently he has a 1000 mile limit per year. Are there two types of QQ plates? From what he tells me, there isn't a QQ plate without a limitation. Or can/do ins. companies put in their own limitations (I don't know if his ins. co. did or not). I've looked this up before, but it was still kind of vague. I really know nothing about this, but next year my BMW (which doesn't pass inspection, lol) will be qualified for QQ plates. I'd love to get them as long as I can drive it whenever, with no limitations.

What's your budget? http://sfbay.craigslist.org/nby/cto/2820420592.html

It may not be up to them, but actually required by the department. For example, in my Calc classes, the professors HAVE to to something with Mathematica. Why the math department decided on that, I have NO idea... As for books, you can get them used, through amazon, share with a friend, borrow from someone who doesn't need it, etc. Unless of course, your school has a book made JUST for your school. And it's brand new. So your only choice is to buy the brand new textbook... yeah, my school did that... ******* greedy assholes. I'm starting to think I should have just knocked out the basics at community college. Oh well.

I wouldn't be surprised if it does. There's a surprising amount of things that swap between the generations of BMWs. For example, as far as I know, the S54 pretty much bolts into an E30, as far as mounts go, and if not, it's pretty close.

Can't wait to see where this goes.

I'd go with the round ones. I don't think the Z4 lights fit the Z body style at all. I know round lights have been done before, but they're usually trailer lights, or Corvette style lights, neither of which I like. The lights you've chosen might be interesting.

Do not touch showcars bodyparts with a 100 foot pole. Search, and you will see why. Avoid them like the plague.

For the rear end, an R200 LSD, 300ZX CVs, and, if need be, beefier stub axles is what I'd do. They were/are available through Modern Motorsport, but I'd get them through Chequered Flag Racing instead (I think the name is, search "chequered" on here). From what I've read he has great customer service.

If you don't want to sell it, and can't afford to fix it at the moment, why not just put it off to the side for a while? If not, I'd go for option #2. An oil leak can't be THAT complicated to fix. From the sound of it, it's probably going to be pretty obvious what the problem is.

Based only on the pics, it looks like you'd be okay if you replaced the rad support and replaced the drivers side forward of the strut tower.

Man that accident damage sucks! Is the frame still straight? From what I remember, it should be pretty easy to get at all the spot welds for that piece, so I'd drill out all the spot welds, and get that same piece off a car that's been rear ended/parted out, and weld it back like factory.

I wouldn't bother with a fuel cell, and those plastic ones are garbage. A proper fuel cell set up is very expensive. For a street car, the stock tank is fine.

If you do go that route, I hope you keep the numbers matching L24 on the side.

Holy ****! Glad you made it out of that accident, your car got destroyed! As for swapping the S13 stuff into the chassis, a few people have swapped an S14 (I think - don't remember anymore) rear subframe into the Z car, and one person swapped I think it was an S12 front suspension in. I think mull (username on here) has swapped/is working on swapping in S14 front suspension. I don't have answers for your other questions, sorry. But as for power steering, have you driven a Z? They really don't need it. In a bone stock 280Z, it's a little tough at parking lot speeds, but in my 240z, it absolutely does not need it, at any speed.