BayAreaZT

Check the turbo FAQ. It's all in there. Easiest thing is to swap in a L28et.

I hate those speed traps at the bottom of hills or overpasses. Happened to me too a couple of months ago. 4 lanes going down hill and I was conciously trying to go slow. I didn't believe the gun either but I didn't complain. San Jose cops are ..........................

If it has different hole spacing you can just knock out one of the studs and drill a hole for a new one or if you bought it new, can't you just exchange it?

I hear a challenge I know the reaction very well. When I had my old V8 Z my friends would ride once and once only When I hit 2nd and they get pinned to the seat and start reaching for something to hold on to is too funny. I was one of the crazy guys that bought the first V8 Z I ever rode in

Renault saved Nissans a$$

What the hell is that monster . Any more pics?

That car was sold on ebay last year. I think it was listed twice.

I'm in San Jose. You can stop by if you're ever in the area. I have an '83 motor in my 240. If you need schematics I have those too.

autometer mounting cup works fine http://www.hybridz.org/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=24347

Man, you sold that Z32 quick. I didn't even get a ride in it . What are your plans for the 240sx? Drop the ka in a 510 and do a SR20 or CA18 swap . If you ever decide to part it out let me know. I need a left front fender.

I'm getting more and more interested in Megasquirt especially if it can now control ignition. Just doing research now because I still need to get my downpipe and exhaust straight but I would like to see or hear about working examples on l28 turbos. Keep the updates coming

If the rails are like the integra or crx you can unbolt them and make an adapter fot the stock rails. There is a write up here http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/AcuraSeats/AcuraBeck.htm

Nice reverse mesh rims on that car.

Hey my old car with the dual supertraps is in there

A refrigerator and an internet port so you can log into HybridZ

http://newsmotoring.news.com.au/dailytelegraph/story_page/0,8269,6657076%255E17002,00.html

Maybe the ecu is not reading rpm. It may not be getting the signal from the CAS because it doesn't advance or retard.

Have you checked resistance at the ecu connectors also? You should have the same readings as the component. Maybe there is a harness problem somewhere. Is the CAS aligned right? Just thowing out ideas.

The difference in classes is horsepower limit. Maybe the vettes thought they had a better chance in the lower class

Stiffness of the bar is a function of the diameter to the fourth. The effect of the swing arm I think is just a moment equation so it has a linear relationship. The purpose is to provide torsional stiffness so the shorter the arm the stiffer it is.

Try http://www.autoloc.com/default.lasso

Nice work . I was wondering also if you welded up the old hole first. I am going to try using a bullitt mustang fuel door when it's time for body work. No cable needed.

I know the boost control may vary depending on temperature outside or under the hood but I drove it plenty of times at night before and it only varied 1-2psi if at all. After thinking aout it, I may have introduced a leak in the signal line. I was kinda rough on it when I shortened it (it was late and I wanted to finish up ). Mine also seemed to stumble the worst when not fully warmed up. I think I narrowed down my problem to a bad AFM signal. It must have been bad enough to send the computer into "safe mode" and cause it to run bad.

I thought I had fixed my stumbling problem a while back but it came back a few days later. A few days ago it was worse than it has ever been. Not just stumbling at the top end but I was hitting a brick wall under any hard acceleration. I've been putting off working on it cause I've been kinda busy with other stuff but the final straw happened the other day when I had a chance to run a 911 and a C4 vette at the same time but as soon as I got on it I bogged badly. That pissed me off So last night tore apart the whole intake sytem from the throttle body to the turbo. Checked the AFM and TPS with a multimeter and everything checked out. Cleaned all the connectors, AFM, and TB. Opened up the TPS and cleaned the contacts. Cleaned the ECU connectors again. On my grainger boost controller, I shortened the signal line and turned the boost down a little. I wanted to run it at less than 10psi until I got things straightened out. Took it out for a run after I was done and imediately the car pulled very strong under WOT. I was like holy s**t this pulls harder than it's ever pulled. How can this be if I turned the boost down? Did another run and watched the boost gauge. No wonder it pulled harder. Boost was at 14psi . Could just shortening the signal line increase boost like that or is it just cause the car is running better now (this was at 12:30am BTW so the air was cool)? It doesn't really matter though cause this car ROCKS at 14psi so I'm gonna leave like that for a while

I think it's a P82 intake from an early 280ZX? I hate all that spaghetti stuff too.