ktm

I love the wheels! Wanna trade? Your timing looks low, but then again your CR is probably a bit higher than 7.4. Still, the general shape looks odd and the sudden jumps seen strange.

Vapor lock. He says "restarting" after warming up.

Grounds. You just painted your car and probably have not exposed bare metal for grounds.

Matt, the problem with using stock springs and modern struts is that the gas charged struts will cause your ride height to increase. Arne and Carl over at Classiczcars.com talk about this a few times when people post about their car looking like a monster truck. Below are two pictures of the Tokico springs and shocks which lowered the car about an inch: Gratuitous photo (same springs and shocks)

Porting is not the answer for his power issue. Porting is not the answer for everything. Installing a cam is not the answer for everything. Changing intakes is not the answer for everything. If he was asking how can I make more power, then yes, porting could be an answer. He is asking why do I seem to be down on power. Again, Phil and I are making some nice power on a stock long block. Yes, we could be making the same power with less boost by allowing the engine to breath easier, but the fact remains we are making nearly (if not over by now) 400 ft-lbs on a stock long block. To the OP: We are looking at power curves. Do you have a plot of your torque and power together?

I've called Stillen and they said "nobody rebuilds them as its cheaper to buy a new one...." Specialty Z is 2 hours away and not really an option. Is there another shop near Orange County, CA that someone could recommend to rebuild my z32 tranny? The second gear synchro is gone.

Damn you are picky! You loved them when we spent all night installing them.

Bringing this back to make a correction to Bob H's statements. You can tune with gasoline AFR's when using meth. It does not matter that the stoich has changed. I was wrong before and have since seen the light. The AFR is just a representation of your lamba in terms of your fuels stoich. O2 sensors output lamba and this value, regardless of stoich, does not change. Now, AFR gauges report your AFR based on gasoline (unless you can change it) which has a stoich of 14.7. Regardless of how much methanol you run, you can still tune using gasoline AFRs since it is a number we are all familiar with. The key point to remember is that your lamba value will not change and that your AFR is simply stoich times lamba. Your AFR value is simply a conversion value and should not be taken as an absolute. Your true AFR will not be reported if you are running a blend since the stoich value is not correct, but you do not care about your true AFR. Regardless if your true stoich is 12.0, 11.0 or 10.0, selecting and tuning with stoich as 14.7 will still give you in the correct lamba. Please read the following link and the others it references: http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?t=582856

This is not the problem and Big Phil's setup is not a "perfect representation" about improvements from a port job. I am not knocking Phil's setup, but even he admits that his tune was not the greatest. Phil was running 100% methanol and did not tune for it. He has a stock intake and a stock P90 head. As a result he was running pig rich and leaving quite a bit of power on the table. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=131896&highlight=dyno I am running a stock F54 turbo block, stock P90a hydraulic lifter head, stock N42 intake, 440 cc/min injectors (flow benched at 503), T03/04E 50 trim turbo (similar to a Holset HY35), and methanol injection (quite different from Phil's setup though). I put down 390 wheel ft-lbs of torque which is identical to Phil and the same power at 20 psi . I am now boosting to 22 psi that increases to 24/25 psi after peak torque to address the power falling off. I am also running 1400 cc/min methanol injection versus the 700 cc/min I ran at 390 ft-lbs, all on a stock block, stock head and stock intake. Again, stock block, stock head, and stock intake. Edit: Addressing the OP, I agree with what gabe and yasin are stating.

Look at Mrfancypants photos as this is what I had to do as well. I made some adjustments so that the adapter is as shown in the photo above. As shown in the photo, there is just a bit of preload on the caliper because of where he shimmed it. Also, read my fix for the e-brake adjustment as you may need to do something like this if you've run out of play. My brakes now grab about halfway up as well.

What stand alones? A shop that can install MS may not know how to install a Haltech, Wolf, Microtech, SDS, etc. Most shops specialize in one or two EMS.

Look on Craigslist for people selling their hoists they bought and used once. I bought an HF 2-ton hoist that was used just once for $75. Renting a hoist from a place like Sunbelt Rentals is $30 a day. I can always sell my hoist for at least $50 if not $75.

Yes, I crossed them. They are still too long.

Read my thread in this forum regarding this exact problem: http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=145472

I simply used a chrome spray paint on the interior housing.

It is mechanical. When I re-built the caliper, I was able to extract the piston by simply cranking on the ebrake arm until the pistion was out far enough. What washer? I only bought the rear brackets and sourced the rest of the kit from other places. The rotor may not seem centered because the rotor floats on the studs and will shift until the pads are in and the wheels back on the car. Maybe I am misunderstanding your problem.

You need to define traction in your terms. If your car is a street driven vehicle that sees pavement quite often, you will not want very soft (low treadwear) tires as they will wear out quickly. There are not very many performance tires in 14-in. sizes anymore. When I completed my turbo build, I was running 14x7 Western Turbines with 225/60s Yokohoma Avid S/Ts. Great all around tire, but no traction in first or second gear. None at all when I really got on it. Third gear on was fine, but the first two gears were useless at WOT. Just about any car can break the tires loose in first gear and many can "chirp em" in second. Even now I am running 245/50R16s BFG G-Force, 340 treadwear and 1st and 2nd gear are still useless. I am putting down a wee bit more power now, but you get the idea. Honestly, I would just get a high quality all-season performance tire like the Yokohomas and enjoy the fact that you can brake it loose in 1st or 2nd gear. I spent days searching tires and short of drag radials, there is just nothing out there in 14-in. anymore.

Item in bold = oh HELL yes its a PITA. This is exactly what I did as well. I was under the car for a good 15 minutes, just looking at the e-brake setup on the car, pushing the rod by hand, looking motion of the second lever arm in front of the "y", etc. If you adjust e-brake on the main lever/rod, you are going to reduce the total movement of the second lever arm and there by limit the travel on the caliper. What I did was install a spacer over the main rod that pushed the adjustment nut towards the back which helps to maximize the total movement of the caliper. I then pre-loaded the caliper by moving the shim on the outside of the e-brake bracket. The wheel does not drag. My ebrakes actuate when the lever is about 1/3 of the way up. I think the e-brake cable is just a tad too long in addition to what you stated as well, and when in combination renders the ebrake useless.

dr hunt, I do not know where they temps were measured on the diesel application. I was looking for this information and ran across a Cummin's diesel website (pickups) that discussed EGTs. Some members were reporting tempertures around 900, peaking over 1000 under heavy loads. Where they were measuring it was not reported. Here is a great link regarding Holsets: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/turbo-system-tech/145691-holset-turbos.html

Wow, very nice combination. My ACT pressure plate weighs about 17 pounds alone!

You just need to soak it well with the Goo Off. It may take more than one application.

You have done nothing that some body else has probably already done. Imitation is the highest form of flatter/compliment. Chances are you learned to do something on your build by reading what others have shared on this forum.

I recently completed the 300zx vented rotor and Toyota S12W caliper upgrade and replaced the drums with the 240sx caliper and 300zx solid rotor setup. I pieced the system together instead of buying a the package that Modern Motorsports offers. I did use their spacer and rear bracket though. I was faced with trying to find a pad combination that would allow me to adjust my brake bias with the Wilwood proportioning valve. There are quite a few discussions regarding bias tuning and issues with the rears not providing sufficient braking force. Modern Motorsports offers KVR pads with their package and claim that they are well matched with the S12W and 240sx setup. However, KVR pads are rather pricey when compared to Hawk HPS and Porterfield R4S. I had a set of the KVRs for the rear that came with the setup I bought from a member here, but I was looking for something different in the front. Ultimately I picked up a set of the Porterfield R4S. This combination, so far, allows me to adjust my brake bias. With the valve fully open the rears lock up first. After 2.5 rotations of the valve, I have the fronts locking up before the rears. I am posting this because I could not find a discussion regarding pad combinations that worked for the disc brake setup. In summary, the combination of Porterfield R4S' with S12W calipers and 300zx vented rotors and KVRs with 240sx calipers and 300zx solid rotors works well. I encourage others to post their combinations as well.

Well, I messed with it some more last night and managed to fix the issue. I wish I could point to one thing I did that solved the problem, but I was making all sorts of adjustments.

I recently completed the 240sx rear caliper upgrade and could not be happier. However, I can not get my e-brake to actuate eventhough I have the adapter. The rod is fully extended/adjusted and the brakes (well, the left brake at the moment) is *just* beginning to grab when the ebrake is fully up. Has anyone else experienced this issue? On which side of the ebrake mounting bracket on the caliper should the shim be installed?