ktm

It depends on brake pad. Hawk HPS recommends that you drive up to 60 mph and do 3 hard stops in order to bed the pads. Otherwise, you could glaze the rotors and have to deal with a nice squeak everytime you stopped.

Congrats! Best to work on the car all you can NOW, for when the little one comes along say goodbye to free time.

Just a quick correction. Metric Grade 10.9 is equivalent to SAE Grade 8; Metric Grade 8.8 is equivalent to SAE Grade 5.

I did not wrap my conduit and probably do not intend to in the future. The wrapping makes it a PITA if you want to quickly and easily access the wires. I simply snip the small zip ties and pull out the segment of harness I need to access. I need to find a "local" source, if at all possible, for the high heat/heat tolerant corrugated tubing though. I am running some Summit product and the tubing over my intake manifold has slight melt marks.

Honestly, after running SUs when I first bought the car March 2006 and not knowing a DAMN thing about F/I, I was going to stick with a simple carburetored setup and build up a stroker. After pricing everything out, a turbo swap was looking better and better for my power goals. I researched for the better part of 8 weeks. I looked up everything I could find on engines, F/I, the Bosch L-tronic, etc., and decided to go with the turbo setup. I was then struggling with modifying the stock ECU or going with Megasquirt. I started reading everything I could find about MS on this site, starting with the VERY last page on the MS forum and working my way to the front. I clicked on damn near EVERY "Help!" thread I found. In the end I decided to go with a professionally manufactured system (Wolf V500). I made the right choice. F/I is not hard AT ALL. Hell, an aftermarket EMS is easier than carbs in my opinion. I have 3 sensors I worry about.....that's it: coolant temperature, MAP, and intake air temperature. Wolf only uses the TPS for throttle enrichment or decel leaning. You can control your fuel application with much more accuracy than carbs can dream of. F/I is quite easy to understand too. In the end it is really no different than carbs: air, fuel, spark. The air and spark sides are identical, the only difference is the fuel and that is easy too. Don't let the bugaboos of modern EFI cars keep you from sticking with EFI on your build.

Bill, my car is painted similar to your Forza2 Z. I have removed the white 240z stripe since this picture was taken.

I would recommend Mike (2003z) if you do not mind shipping. His prices are very competitive and his turn-around is unparalleled.

Oh trust me, I know ALL about that. I STILL do not have the revised ECU from them, which is why I went with the LMA3 and LC-1. After seeing Logworks (the logging software from Innovate), Wolf's data logging sucks ass in comparison.

Why from down under? I am using the Bosch LSU4.2 along with an Innovate LC-1 and LMA-3 for my tuning.

I received an Innovate LC-1, G3 gauge, and LMA-3, as well as a Kaminari air dam (early gift).

Good to see another Wolf user, regardless of the car type.

Exactly. I can swap a head gasket in 2.5 hours and the intake/exhaust gasket in 1.25 hours because I no longer have webbing and heat shields.

You will not have a problem with fuel heating up. I am running one myself without the heat shielding (defeats the purpose of the non-webbing to then run heat shields). I fabricated some brackets to attach to my Pallnet fuel rail and run the fuel line in-plane with the fuel rail.

Welcome to the club. Like I said Hugh, give me a call if you run into any snags. The wiring is fairly straight-forward. The worst part, and I mean WORST part, is start-up. Getting your firing order set correctly and matching the engine is the hardest part. It took Ron and I the better part of a day to get it to fire up.

Before: After:

Merry Christmas!

Mine are not pointed straight up but rather into the back of the driver and passenger seats. The previous owner did a butcher's job installing them originally. They are not in the lids but the actual riser behind the seats. I just cleaned it up quite a bit, sealed the enclosures, and sealed the lids.

I have 6x9s in the riser panel behind the seats with the tool lids sealed and 6.5"s in the front in custom enclosures I made right by the front doors. I am driving them with a 250w/4ohm amp. The 6x9s have hellacious kick since they are, in essence, in a sealed box and the 6.5"s bring the mids and highs forward.

Just an update: I verified my timing tonight. At 20 degrees my engine was actually at 24 degrees. Somehow I must have knocked the distributor off by 4 degrees. I have now corrected it.

The Wolf EMS can accept inputs from other sensors, etc. and use these inputs to control functions. I wired up the knock sensor as an input into Wolf and then used this input to control an output from Wolf that is connected to an LED. I then "filtered" the signal such that the LED will only be illuminated if the knock sensor is above 0.6 volts. You can do something similar using a voltage amplifier that will amplifier a low voltage sensor like a knock sensor (typically 0 - 1 volt) to a 0 - 5 volt setup. 3 to 5 volts is sufficient to power an LED. You may get some noise in the line at 3 volts, but 4 to 5 volts would be a good sign of knocking.

Thanks for the information Tony. A difference of 15 to 20 degrees is substantial (I assumed you are referring to Celcius). I was talking to Ron the other day and he confirmed my thoughts about tuning down #5 and #6 by a couple of degrees and adding up to 1% fuel. I am running a decent (24x12x3 core) intercooler. My IATs are rather low. On a side note, I finally got my knock sensor to correctly trigger an LED, so at least I'll have visual warning.

Dan, yes he has. I am quite interested in the J&S system, but right now they do not support full sequential setups for 6/8 cylinders. I would have to rewire my coils for wasted spark in order to use their current offerings. It's my understanding that they are close to releasing a system for full sequential setups for 6/8 cylinders.

I just finished buttoning everything up and fired the car up. She started right up, pulled 18 inches of vacuum, idle is rock steady at 800 rpm. No bubbles in the coolant, no loss of coolant.