ktm

I played D&D back when it first came out. Great game and what a way to blow a weekend with your best buds.

Tax refund? What's that? I have not had a tax refund for quite a while. My wife claims 1, I claim 1, we have a 2 year old daughter, $375,000 mortgage, $8k in property tax and my wife's parents live with us, yet we STILL owe both Feds and the People's Republic of California.

They did cover it with fuel injected blocks....

Sweet! I am looking forward to seeing you there.

Ron, you best come down. I can play chauffeur if you come down without a ride. Hugh, look forward to seeing you there. I already registered 2 days ago.

Diff stub axles, half shafts, compansion flange and moustache bar if the diff is an R200.

Congrats Hugh! I know that feeling ALLLLLL too well. As someone asked me, how long did you do the happy dance?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220204061835&_trksid=p3984.cWAT.m240.lVI Over $800 and still going! I was bidding on one that went to $700 earlier....

Jeff, I will be running FJO's 700cc injector. You are making quite a bit more power than I am so I hope the 700cc injector will be fine. Their website claims it is good up to 500 crank hp, and I will be hopefully producing around 425 crank once I am done. I will be using Wolf to drive the injector via a PWM channel, hence the calcs. I have determined how much methanol I need to inject, I just needed to determine the duty cycle of the injector. I know that I really need to just setup it up and test it, but the calcs at least get me in the ball park. Dr Hunt, everything I have read so far regarding meth injection is to run a 50/50 mix. The meth provides good detonation resistance and the water cools the charge.

Do you not see the last sticky in this forum? Also, you have a 3.0 Rebello in your car per your sig. That is about as high power as you are going to get for an NA L-series.

Exactly as Yorgee, mopar and I said, they are most likely Wats. It's the rear lip that gives it away unless he is running a custom set of wide, negative offset Rewinds. Do you not see how the rear wheels have two lips? The spokes are offset back away from the face. The front wheels may look like Rewinds, but it is the rear that gives them away. Rewinds would NOT fill that rear ZG flare out either unless they were spaced out that far. Yorgee, is that your car in your sig? Looks good!

Great vid Phil. I am installing an FJO meth setup in a couple weeks and then will turn my boost up to 20 psi. Like you I have no traction in 1st or 2nd right now, I can not imagine at 20 psi and meth! Your vid gives me a taste.

The car in the picture has the following parts: Air dam Spoiler ZG flares Watanabe wheels - or else he managed to get a WIDE Rewind. MSA does not sell the Wats

Steve, You can use the 8 mm rods as well, just replace the bolts with ARP hardware. As a matter of fact, I would even replace the 9 mm bolts with ARP hardware as well.

24x12x3 also with Kaminari airdam, which the Type 3 is based on.

I am installing meth injection on the car and want to use Wolf to control the HSV. I am going to us FJO racing HSV on my car. Saying that, I need to calculate the duty cycle of the HSV for a given MAP and RPM, based on my injector PW, injector flow rate, and HSV flow rate at various pressures. Following are the calcs. Someone PLEASE review and add to the discussion. First, you need your IPW table from your standalone (Hydra, Wolf, Microtech, etc). This gives you your injector pulse width in milliseconds. Next, take the rated flow rate of your injector and convert it to a MASS flow rate. I am using 7MGTE injectors bench flowed at 500 cc/min. Gasoline has a density of 737.22 kg/cu m. which is equivalent to 0.73722 g/cc. I converted the time to milliseconds for everything as well since the IPW is in milliseconds. Thus, my MASS flow rate for my injector is: 500 cc/min * 1 min/60 sec * 1 sec/1000ms * 0.73722 g/cc = 0.006144 g/ms Using an example IWP, my MASS of gasoline for a given IWP is 10 ms (IWP) * 0.006144 g/ms = 0.06144 grams of gasoline I keep saying MASS flow rate because the ratios (AFR, etc.) are all MASS based and not VOLUME based. Next, you need to calculate your MASS flow rate of methanol or 50/50 based on your fuel MASS flow rate. This will be specific to your mixture. Assuming a 50/50 mix, your density will be (1000 kg/cu + 791.30 kg/cu m)/2 = 895.65 kg/cu m or 0.89565 g/cc. Now that you have your density of mix, determine HOW much of the mix you need for ONE COMPLETE ENGINE CYCLE. This is TWO revolutions of the engine. Therefore, for my car which has an inline 6, I multiply the mass of fuel used for one injector pulse width by 6 and assuming a 40% methanol injection rate 0.06144 grams * 6 = 0.3686 * 0.40 grams = 0.147 grams 50/50 mix Your meth injector flow rate must now be converted to mass flow rate like the fuel injector. HOWEVER, remember that you need to take into account your MAP as it will reduce the flow pressure from the pump (which is why we have vacuum referenced FPRs unlike the meth pump). Therefore, you need to calculate your new injector flow rate based on the revised MAPs as follows square root (new pressure/old pressure) * flow rate My injector will flow 700 cc/min at 150 psi. My new flow rates are as follows Below is a line taken out of my spreadsheet MAP FP New Pressre New Flow Rate 2.18 147.82 (150 - 2.18) 694.8 cc/min 0.0103 g/ms Now that I have a mass flow rate required, I can calculate the HSV pulse width required: 0.147 grams / 0.0103 g/ms = 14.3 ms However, PWM HSVs do not operate like a typical fuel injector. You must specify a duty cycle for the PWM control. This is where I was stumped until my Guiness inspired epiphany (I hope). Remember that it takes TWO complete revolutions of the engine for ONE complete combustion cycle for all cylinders. Therefore, at 3000 rpm or 50 revs per second, 25 CYCLES per second are completed. Take the inverse of this and convert to milliseconds and you get 40 ms per cycle. Ta da! Now, the HSV injector duty cycle is simply 14.3 ms / 40 ms = 36% Is this correct?

Are you going to make more of these? I would love to buy one.

I have not looked into an Autometer housing, but I can tell you that the stock gauge housings are painted white on the inside to aid in illumination. Over the years the white paint tends to yellow out, reducing their albedo. I repainted mine with a bright white gloss paint.

Bjhines, Rustoleum makes a coating that is intended to be "reflective" to light. You spray it over the object and when a regular light shines on it, it "glows" like reflective tape, etc. I have not tried it myself though I have been tempted to give it a shot.

New solenoid time. I know the prong you are describing and the wire that connects to it is a black with white stripe wire. It has a female spade connector and the connector on the solenoid is a male spade connector. You can solder a wire to the connector that broke off as a temporary fix. It's the little black wire with the red connector.

running 225/50s.....will they rub the wheel well/fender of a 240z with a Tokico HP spring and strut setup? I've run through the calcs and measured the clearance from the springs to the front fender lip. I measured 10.5 inches. With 3-3/8 backspace that means I have 9.5/2 = 4.75 + (4.75 - 3.375) = 5.125" in the front. I am running 14x7 0 offset wheels now, which means I have 4 inches backspace and front. The wheels would be 1.125 inches further out than my current wheel. It looks like it will be tight in the front. I am not worried about the valence at this time. The rears are another matter though. I am not concerned if they stick out a little bit at this time. I just need to know if I **have** to go with flares to use them or if I can stretch/roll the fender a bit. I can get the wheels for a screaming deal - 15x8.5 Centerline two-piece weighing in at 13 lbs per wheel.

It's also a 280z not a 240z. The tail light panels, gauges and interior door panels are dead give aways.

Do not trust the voltage gauge in the car. I use mine for reference only. Mine also says around 16 volts when on the highway, but I know that I am only putting out 14.4 volts as measured by a DMM. I simply use the gauge to help me determine if something is wrong (pegged needled, gauge showing less than 16 at highway, etc.).

You can wire up the 280zx mirrors if you also get the 280zx mirror controls. It only gets sticky if you try to mix and match components like I did in JSM's link.