ktm

I have been doing quite a bit of reading over the past 2 weeks about intake manifold design. The heuristic regarding the design is that long, smaller diameter runners help low torque due to inertia (high velocity and large volume of air) while short larger diameter runners help high rpm torque. I am not concerned at this point about frequency tuning. I read Justinolson's, Monzter's, Rontyler's, and Prox's threads on intake design as there are some GREAT discussions contained within. Ron's original intake looks like it flows quite well and provides nearly even flow distribution to the runners. He is using 1.5" ID runners that are 6 inches long (Ron, if you read this, is that 6 inches from the flange to the front side of the plenum or is that 6 inches TOTAL length to the backside of the plenum). BRAAP stated that the stock manifold runners average approximately 7.5 inches in length and they measure approximately 1.25 ID. I have looked at some aftermarket RB25DET and 2JZ intakes and both of them utilize short, large diameter runners, especially the 2JZ intake. My question is about a blend of the two: large diameter runnger (1.5 ID) coupled with a longer runner such as the stock length of 7.5 in. Do you get the best of both worlds? If not, what would be the downsides?

bjhines, did you happen so see my earlier write-up? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?p=810889

I am only seeing three wire connections. Unless you go one-wire, the Z has a 4 wire connection: Sense, Lamp, Battery and Ground. Also, the pulley is setup for a serpentine belt. To be honest Phil, just do the GM alternator mod and pick up a 90 amp from Autozone. They come with a lifetime warranty and are only $90 if you have a core. If you do the bracket mod and decide to upgrade later to a Powermaster for instance, all you have to do is swap alternators.

Think before you solder! Make sure that if you are connecting subharnesses or wires that are soldered to a device that you join them using connectors and not butt splices or solder. You want to be able to remove the subharnesses/devices without having to cut the wires.

Very nice! I found my next project.

Ace and True Vaue hardware stores do have the proper Class 10.9 (SAE Grade 8.8) bolts if you know what to look for. However, they do not carry some of the longer bolts that are necessary, such as the bell housing to block bolts.

Thank you all for the comments. I've decided to go ahead and track one down. I had one all lined up and a check cut, but then I was involved in a minor fender bender and had to cancel the purchase. I am now in a position to find one again.....if I can only find one again.

Pete, I will definitely third that opinion. I installed a voltmeter in my 240z, but have been having "burnout" issues with the two wires (white/red and white). Both times I've mechanically connected them I've melted the butt splice. I finally solved it by cutting the butt splice out and capping off each end. I then ran a wire from the alternator lug where the white/red wire connects to my white wire coming from the starter. They make the connection at at fuse block I used to replace the fusible link.

I have really been struggling with the decision to upgrade to an LSD differential or stick with open. I am running a 3.54 R180 (dead diffy spinning at my power levels, or so I've read) behind an L28ET with around 320 wheel ft-lbs of torque. I do not Auto-X nor do I plan to, I may hit up Speedventure a few times a year and I may hit the strip a few times a year, that's it. Current plans are to invest in meth injection and a Lone Wolf intake. I just do not know if I would really see the benefit of an LSD diff. I've been doing quite a bit of reading and have explored all of my options. Cost really is not an issue as much as spending money that I am not going to realize the full benefit. I live in So. Cal. and do not drive the car in the rain (all 20 or so days we get ). Thoughts?

I love the older M45s. The new body style does nothing for me. We just sold our FX35 for a...wait for it.....Prius. Thankfully that is the wifes car. I have a 2006 WRX Limited Wagon that I am trying desperately not to spend any money on. However, a Cobb AP1, STi TMIC and VF39 are calling to me.

I just realized (doh moment) that you do not have an L-series motor. However, the concept is the same but the bolt/stud size will be different. Nope, for dropping the entire transmission. You drop the transmission first. When the tranny is out, thread in the studs all the way until refusal (finger tight). Clearance may be an issue so you do not want them too long, but they need to be long enough so you can pull them out when the transmission is mated to the block. Once the bellhousing is seated on the studs, you are 80% there as the bellhousing alignment is set. No more lining up holes in hope of getting the input shaft aligned. Also, the sutds help to stabilize the transmission and act as guides. You simply need to keep the tailshaft supported with the jack while you push the transmission forward.

Why are you switching pumps? The mechanical pump works just fine. Save yourself the money if you are swapping in an L28ET since you'll have to buy a different pump for the EFI.

Some said.....I said. Too bad this Thursday is V-Day Tony, otherwise I would bring you said cable.

Bill, here is a little tip for next time you have to drop it with the engine in the car. Buy four (4) 100 mm long M10x1.5 studs. Thread those into the block where the four bolts go. These act as guides for the bell housing when you are re-installing the tranny. Get the bell housing onto the four studs and you are golden. The input shaft will be lined up correctly, all you have to do then is rotate the output shaft so that the splines line up while you push on the bell housing. After the tranny is in place, remove each stud one at a time and replace with the appropriate bolt. I learned this trick after my 6th swap in 2 months.

Exactly. This clearly shows where one should concentrate their efforts of reducing unsprung weight.

Is this your way of trying to dodge the "search" comment?

Wow, learn something new every day. The design for the 1975 ammeter is definitely safer than that for the 240z. I stand corrected.

Great, you are giving me cause for concern now! I have a non-T5 in my car and do the occassional 5th gear, uphill, full load blast.

280zs came with voltmeters, not ammeters. The stock wiring for a 240z ammeter is 10 gage, as the wires were the same wires (red/white and white) coming from the battery and alternator.

....and the sad part is that he actually does indeed SELL THEM. Check out his reviews....

Only reason I ask is because there is a local seller that has been selling copious amounts of ARE mesh wheels. He bought them from a friend who had a warehouse. The wheels do not come with center caps. Must be coincidence. Good luck.

The multimeter is only a start. You really need to have the battery load tested. The battery can show decent voltage, but not have enough juice to crank the starter.

Solenoid's will do the repetitive clicking when they go out too. Saying that, have you checked your battery voltage? It sounds symptomatic of a weak battery as well.

ARE Enkei mesh.....hmmm....in a warehouse that he bought from a friend.....no center caps I assume?....phone number begins with area code 949 by chance?

The wheels are SSR Reverse Mesh. I am looking to pick up a set for my car. He was selling the wheels for over $1000 at one point.